Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Front Strut Replacement, Front Strut Replacement
chris914
post Aug 10 2004, 11:48 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 489
Joined: 24-July 04
From: San Diego, CA
Member No.: 2,393
Region Association: Southern California



Front Strut Replacement

I've read the Pelican article and other posts on replacing the front struts. It shows taking apart the whole wheel assembly, the calipers, the rotors, the brake lines, the ball joint, etc. Now I have read other posts that describe just removing the old strut cartridge and inserting the new one. It seems like a lot of work to take everything apart.

Also should the rubber bearing that the top of the strut bolts into be replaced if it looks ok?

Thanks, Chris.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
McMark
post Aug 10 2004, 11:57 PM
Post #2


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 20,179
Joined: 13-March 03
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Member No.: 419
Region Association: None



Front strut replacement:

1. jack up the car
2. remove the wheel for access.
3. open the front trunk.
4. remove the shock nut
5. compress the shock and pull it out and away from the body. it'll clear the fender.
6. remove the "nut"/cap that holds the cartridge in the housing.
7. the shock it out.

Quick and easy.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ArtechnikA
post Aug 11 2004, 05:40 AM
Post #3


rich herzog
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,390
Joined: 4-April 03
From: Salted Roads, PA
Member No.: 513
Region Association: None



what you are describing is actually INSERT replacement, and with the possible exception of actual Bilstein struts with a bottom insert-retaining roll pin, and others where the upper gland nut can be a real bitch to loosen - yes, that's pretty easy.

if you actually are replacing a strut, yes, you have to do all that other stuff.

oh - and if you have really stiff gas-pressure dampers - like Bilstein Rallye - it can be a challenge to "compress the damper." it's also possible to stress the brake line while trying to loosen the gland nut, so be careful that the strut doesn't twist too much ...

the upper rubber bearing is probably good to go if it passes a visual inspection, but the OEM parts are not expensive.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Eddie Williams
post Aug 11 2004, 07:18 AM
Post #4


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 822
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Nederland, TX
Member No.: 55
Region Association: None



I have 2 other questions concearning strut insert replacement. My new Koni's came with rubber upper bushings, should I replace these? Also, the top of the adjuster seems to hit my front trunk lid, what do you do about the clearance issues?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ArtechnikA
post Aug 11 2004, 07:43 AM
Post #5


rich herzog
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,390
Joined: 4-April 03
From: Salted Roads, PA
Member No.: 513
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Eddie Williams @ Aug 11 2004, 05:18 AM)
My new Koni's came with rubber upper bushings, should I replace these? Also, the top of the adjuster seems to hit my front trunk lid, what do you do about the clearance issues?

you should use at least most of the bump rubber. if your car has been lowered, you might cut off the bottom ring.

i don't know what your adjuster looks like, so i'm hesitant to recommend specific measures. i know what i did with my externally adjustable front Konis a long time ago, but i doubt they're still made like that.

if your car has been lowered a lot, there may be more extraordinary measures needed to deal with the reduction in travel. the short version is that the foot valve can be damaged if the claw hits the valve in bump. this has been discussed here before and i know i've posted at least one picture of Koni internals. look around - it's here. with sensible lowering the bump rubber should protect you. note that the bump rubber only works if you're retaining the "dust cover" ...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Eddie Williams
post Aug 11 2004, 08:15 AM
Post #6


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 822
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Nederland, TX
Member No.: 55
Region Association: None



Not talking about the bump bushing. Never mind on the upper bushings, I think I'm going to use the GPR bushings. The tops of my Koni's look like a standard strut, but have a small blade adjuster sticking out of the top.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Aaron Cox
post Aug 11 2004, 09:47 AM
Post #7


Professional Lawn Dart
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 24,541
Joined: 1-February 03
From: OC
Member No.: 219
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(Eddie Williams @ Aug 11 2004, 07:15 AM)
Not talking about the bump bushing. Never mind on the upper bushings, I think I'm going to use the GPR bushings. The tops of my Koni's look like a standard strut, but have a small blade adjuster sticking out of the top.

thats what my reds look like. i used the koni upper strut mount rubber and metal sleeve.....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ArtechnikA
post Aug 11 2004, 10:23 AM
Post #8


rich herzog
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,390
Joined: 4-April 03
From: Salted Roads, PA
Member No.: 513
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Eddie Williams @ Aug 11 2004, 06:15 AM)
The tops of my Koni's look like a standard strut, but have a small blade adjuster sticking out of the top.

there's "supposed to be" a knob that fits over that blade, i believe.

what i did on my car was to grind that blade part flat and hacksaw a screwdriver slot into it; this gave me the clearance i needed. In Those Olden Tymes, the adjuster rod was simply drilled crossways so you could poke a small punch or a nail through it and twist; the blade and removable knob is a modern improvament...

but i gather you're set on the rubber bits, whatever they are ...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Eddie Williams
post Aug 11 2004, 12:35 PM
Post #9


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 822
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Nederland, TX
Member No.: 55
Region Association: None



QUOTE(acox914 @ Aug 11 2004, 09:47 AM)
i used the koni upper strut mount rubber and metal sleeve.....

so, you gouged/burnt out the old stock stuff?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Aaron Cox
post Aug 11 2004, 02:10 PM
Post #10


Professional Lawn Dart
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 24,541
Joined: 1-February 03
From: OC
Member No.: 219
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(Eddie Williams @ Aug 11 2004, 11:35 AM)
QUOTE(acox914 @ Aug 11 2004, 09:47 AM)
i used the koni upper strut mount rubber and metal sleeve.....

so, you gouged/burnt out the old stock stuff?

yep. knocked old stuff out and used the new stuff. new rubber vs old rubber....went with the new (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Eddie Williams
post Aug 11 2004, 07:39 PM
Post #11


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 822
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Nederland, TX
Member No.: 55
Region Association: None



cool, thanks.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 15th May 2024 - 07:59 AM