Front Strut Replacement

I've read the Pelican article and other posts on replacing the front struts. It shows taking apart the whole wheel assembly, the calipers, the rotors, the brake lines, the ball joint, etc. Now I have read other posts that describe just removing the old strut cartridge and inserting the new one. It seems like a lot of work to take everything apart.

Also should the rubber bearing that the top of the strut bolts into be replaced if it looks ok?

Thanks, Chris.

Front strut replacement:

1. jack up the car
2. remove the wheel for access.
3. open the front trunk.
4. remove the shock nut
5. compress the shock and pull it out and away from the body. it'll clear the fender.
6. remove the "nut"/cap that holds the cartridge in the housing.
7. the shock it out.

Quick and easy.

what you are describing is actually INSERT replacement, and with the possible exception of actual Bilstein struts with a bottom insert-retaining roll pin, and others where the upper gland nut can be a real bitch to loosen - yes, that's pretty easy.

if you actually are replacing a strut, yes, you have to do all that other stuff.

oh - and if you have really stiff gas-pressure dampers - like Bilstein Rallye - it can be a challenge to "compress the damper." it's also possible to stress the brake line while trying to loosen the gland nut, so be careful that the strut doesn't twist too much ...

the upper rubber bearing is probably good to go if it passes a visual inspection, but the OEM parts are not expensive.

I have 2 other questions concearning strut insert replacement. My new Koni's came with rubber upper bushings, should I replace these? Also, the top of the adjuster seems to hit my front trunk lid, what do you do about the clearance issues?

you should use at least most of the bump rubber. if your car has been lowered, you might cut off the bottom ring.

i don't know what your adjuster looks like, so i'm hesitant to recommend specific measures. i know what i did with my externally adjustable front Konis a long time ago, but i doubt they're still made like that.

if your car has been lowered a lot, there may be more extraordinary measures needed to deal with the reduction in travel. the short version is that the foot valve can be damaged if the claw hits the valve in bump. this has been discussed here before and i know i've posted at least one picture of Koni internals. look around - it's here. with sensible lowering the bump rubber should protect you. note that the bump rubber only works if you're retaining the "dust cover" ...

Not talking about the bump bushing. Never mind on the upper bushings, I think I'm going to use the GPR bushings. The tops of my Koni's look like a standard strut, but have a small blade adjuster sticking out of the top.

thats what my reds look like. i used the koni upper strut mount rubber and metal sleeve.....

there's "supposed to be" a knob that fits over that blade, i believe.

what i did on my car was to grind that blade part flat and hacksaw a screwdriver slot into it; this gave me the clearance i needed. In Those Olden Tymes, the adjuster rod was simply drilled crossways so you could poke a small punch or a nail through it and twist; the blade and removable knob is a modern improvament...

but i gather you're set on the rubber bits, whatever they are ...

so, you gouged/burnt out the old stock stuff?

yep. knocked old stuff out and used the new stuff. new rubber vs old rubber....went with the new

cool, thanks.