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> Wayne's 911 Engine Book, Have you read it?
Have you read it? What do you think?
Have you read it? What do you think?
It's AWESOME! GREAT BOOK [ 11 ] ** [33.33%]
It was pretty good, but I got more info elsewhere [ 3 ] ** [9.09%]
Ok, but I expected more [ 3 ] ** [9.09%]
Didn't help much [ 0 ] ** [0.00%]
Bought it but haven't read it yet [ 6 ] ** [18.18%]
Won't buy it [ 9 ] ** [27.27%]
Bought something else - please note what below [ 1 ] ** [3.03%]
Total Votes: 33
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ArtechnikA
post Aug 12 2004, 06:10 PM
Post #21


rich herzog
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QUOTE(thomasotten @ Aug 12 2004, 03:40 PM)
So what about the 2.7 engines?  Are they bad news because of the stud pulling issues?

Oh, and another thing.  I am 6'4" tall.  My seat is all the way to the rear pad.  How many inches of seat travel do I sacrifice if I mount an A/C compressor?

they have a reputation for being bad news because of the heat issues, so you need to shop carefully. there were some 2,4's made with the 7R case, and they didn't have nearly the same issues. but these issues are well known and there are places and tooling to deal with them. figure a 7R case will need to be gone over by an expert, such as Competition Engineering or Ollies (i'm sure therre are others, but those come instantly to mind). you'll want TimeSerts or better, CaseSavers in the head studs.

this is all laid out in the Anderson and Pelican Wayne books - so your researcj patch is clear :-)... if you want to build an 8000 rpm engine you'll need shuffle pins. if it's a driver maybe not. many options.

don't understand your question on the AC. the compressor is a pump driven from a belt off the crankshaft pulley. ideally you have two condensors - one in the back and one under the front trunk. the evaporator lives under the dash and/or in the smuggler's box (the fan lives there. mostly...) none of these parts affect seat travel...

[ occurs to me you're talking about AC in a 914 - so nevermind the smuggler's box and condensor in the tail references. there are many opinions on AC in 6's, but i don't see why it can't be mounted more or less where it'd be done in a 4. make belt changes damned challenging tho, i bet... ]
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Jeroen
post Aug 12 2004, 06:10 PM
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I have to admit that I bought the book but haven't read it yet...
I browsed through it a couple of times though and it looks good
The pics are excellent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I didn't buy it because I'm going to rebuild a 6 myself, just bought it to get eductated...

cheers,

Jeroen
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thomasotten
post Aug 12 2004, 07:09 PM
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Yeah, I was talking about putting a six with A/C in the 914. I remember seeing it done once, and they cut an arc out of the firewall to clear the compressor. I was wondering if that was the only option.

So what about the engines that have MFI. Do they require a "brainbox"? is it big?
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ArtechnikA
post Aug 12 2004, 07:47 PM
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rich herzog
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QUOTE(thomasotten @ Aug 12 2004, 05:09 PM)
Yeah, I was talking about putting a six with A/C in the 914. I remember seeing it done once, and they cut an arc out of the firewall to clear the compressor. I was wondering if that was the only option.

So what about the engines that have MFI. Do they require a "brainbox"? is it big?

lots of AC options now - depends a bit on what engine you choose and how big it and its supporting 'stuff' is.

not much in the way of control electronics in a MFI car - and some of that is sorta optional. but you do pretty much need to cut access holes in the firewall - adjusting the MFI pump requires l-o-n-g (18"+) tools to be inserted through and past the fan and shroud. basically impossible to do in an unmodified 914. it is worth about 10 HP tho - if you can find a pump matched to your cams...
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cnavarro
post Aug 13 2004, 06:51 AM
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I have Wayne's book (not the 100 projects one) and I have to say that it's not all that bad. I was expecting it to read more like a dissertation than anything else. Along with his book, I have both editions of Bruce's book, as well as both books by Spencer (356/912), and even the Maestro's little book (gift from customer). All in all, it's some good reading and a hell of a good reference library. Between all those books, I used their data to construct my 3.5 100mm (3506cc) and 3.65 102mm (3648cc) Nickies for the 3.2 (on a 3L stud spacing), since I wasn't able to locate an andial 3.5 conversion cylinder to work off of. All I have to say is that I have some happy customers now that I have these kits and I really owe it to all the literature I've accumulated, especially Bruce's texts. The only thing that I found lacking in all the texts is what the base o-ring groove looks like on a 3.8 RSR cylinder- I have the cylinders done, and o-rings in hand, but I can't figure it out. Anyone have a cylinder (or pictures of a set) that I can borrow?

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
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seanery
post Aug 13 2004, 07:23 AM
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I've been looking for Anderson texts. I have the 911 Performance Handbook, but can't find any others. Can someone point me in the right direction?
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ArtechnikA
post Aug 13 2004, 07:26 AM
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QUOTE(seanery @ Aug 13 2004, 05:23 AM)
I've been looking for Anderson texts. I have the 911 Performance Handbook, but can't find any others.

AFAIK - that's all he's done.
there is more depth and background on the early cars in the first edition, more updated material on the newer cars (but no watercooled unless you count the 956/962...) in the 2nd edition.

mine are signed (na na nya na na na...).
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Wayne at Pelican Parts
post Aug 16 2004, 12:56 PM
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QUOTE(Red-Beard @ Aug 11 2004, 08:43 PM)
However, it reguritates some info that is more speculative than correct (Alusil cylinders are not throw away. If you want to throw them away, send them to me!). It is also written partially, from an extreme engineer/scientist/Porsche Part selling weenie, standpoint. I will not replace items that are well within spec, just because "While you're in there...".

That's slightly incorrect - I don't say you should throw away Alusil cylinders in the book. More specifically, re-ringing Alusils can be done successfully. Heck, I did it on the car that I sold to you. It's a gamble though, as sometimes the rings will not seat properly, and you will end up with an engine that smokes and won't pass emissions tests.

As for replacing parts that are still in spec - most people don't have the ability to accurately measure the parts (like main bearings or intermediate shaft bearings). These parts are relatively cheap when compared to the total time cost of rebuilding an engine. Hence, I recommend replacing them with new ones. In most cases, to not replace them is false economy, in my opinion.

There are many flavors of how to rebuild these engines - it's important to remember that the factory manuals only give instructions on assembling a perfectly new engine - not one that has been worn and used for many thousands of miles. Reconditioning these engines back to new is a tricky process, and information on how to successfully (leak-free) do this is not included in the factory manuals.

For more information, the Engine Rebuild Forum covers a lot of topics not discussed in the book:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/forumdispla...?s=&forumid=257

-Wayne (crazy) Dempsey
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seanery
post Aug 16 2004, 12:59 PM
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My book just got here - Thanks Mailman!
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