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> what did you do to your 914 today
JOEPROPER
post May 17 2020, 04:40 PM
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QUOTE(cassmcentee @ May 17 2020, 06:35 PM) *

Rear Brake Cleanup



Those look nice! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)
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cassmcentee
post May 17 2020, 05:10 PM
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Thanks!
I'm learning the Porsche Engineer's mindset and am diggin' it...
Shoutout to the Pelican Parts Tech Articles!
Still going to Media Blast the piston "tops", sides are polished. need to polish the interiors...
One more for "Brake Porn"
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DRPHIL914
post May 17 2020, 07:32 PM
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very busy on the 914 past few days, i guess i have t posted for a while here, been posting more on instagram, easier lol!

well, i needed chase the oil leak, and change out the transmission fluid so i did all that and while at it i did my 914rubber.com speedometer drive thing, while at it i found the oil cooler /filter adapter was loose, very loose! but easy fix! now tight and no more leak! i was worried i had a pushrod tube leak or worse, now no leak. should have thought of checking this sooner. and also re adjusted and balanced the front and rear suspension.

cleaned up pretty good.

but here is a top tech tip: the transmission fluid comes out really fast when hot, it’s pretty thin and it overshot the pan, half of it on the cardboard not in the drip pan, sorry no pics of the mess . so be ready, have a big pan, properly placed.



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Mueller
post May 17 2020, 07:32 PM
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^nice calipers and ^^ great looking covers there Oscar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Ended up redoing the front harness as I misread the wiring matrix and made a mistake.

Not even close to being Mil-spec or something you'd find from a pro shop. I just needed to start and make progress without breaking the bank. Ran out of shrink tubing so once I get that I will finish up front and move the rear, then the cabin/dash wires go in. Couldn't find my black tie wraps so had to use what I could find.

Anyone know where to get a quality headlight socket for the 3 terminals? I've read bad things about the Dorman parts.

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simonjb
post May 17 2020, 08:20 PM
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Went for coffee in New Canaan CT today...

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dereknlee
post May 17 2020, 09:42 PM
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Found some instructions online for DIY zinc plating on the cheap. I am a recovering cheap, and have a pile of parts that need plating. Figured why not?

Ordered zinc sulfate off ebay, cut up a boat zinc anode that I got for free, used an old 12V 1.5A transformer, and the rest came from the hardware or grocery store. To soon to tell how well it holds up, but the results look surprisingly good - and it's fun.

First up are the spring perches for my Koni shocks. The shocks are probably due for replacement, but who knows when this car will be on the road and it will be easy to swap them out then, so for now they'll just get a clean up.

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Turn signal clamps are in getting plated now. Perches are in the oven to mitigate hydrogen embrittlement.

...looks around for other plain zinc plated hardware to restore.

-Derek
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cassmcentee
post May 18 2020, 06:00 AM
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That's great Derek! Looking Good
It's called "Adding to your Talent Stack"
Cheers
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eric9144
post May 18 2020, 09:12 AM
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Made the long trip back from PHX to San Diego with the 914/6...
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Only to get home and have the fuel pump take a $Hit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif)
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No pressure @ the fuel rail
Attached File  IMG_4914.MOV ( 1.68mb ) Number of downloads: 83
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rjames
post May 18 2020, 11:03 AM
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Since I can't get the car to run, I thought I'd move on to another project, installing a 3rd brake light, which also operates with the running lights.

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Gatornapper
post May 18 2020, 07:38 PM
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Update on dropped engine: cleaned it last week.

Today: Bead blasted heater valves & one valve cover - ready for paint.

Adjusting valves is SO EASY with engine down, got 1 and 2 done, but cannot rotate engine to get it in position for 3 & 4 - hits just before high point on cam and I cannot rotate the impeller even with leverage - like it hits a brick wall…….yes, plugs are out so no compression issues. Intake on 1 was correct, 2 was too tight at 5 thou. Exhaust was way too tight on both at 7 or less, but now all 4 are correct.

Guess I’ll have to bump the engine over with the battery tomorrow to get 3 & 4. Unless someone has a tip on how to rotate the engine manually while it is out. I tried strap wrench and then a large lever on mounting flanges on impeller, being very careful to not touch a blade......

Cranked engine for 5 seconds with starter, which freed everything up to where impeller again rotated easily by hand again......guess sitting for several weeks all the oil had drained off the cam and the friction between lifter & cam was too much until it had oil....all valves now adjusted, couple intakes way off.....so now will have to dial carbs in again but engine should run even better - can't wait.

GN
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eric9144
post May 19 2020, 11:16 AM
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Have 2 spare DME relays and a new fuel pump inbound (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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Steve
post May 19 2020, 11:19 AM
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QUOTE(eric9144 @ May 18 2020, 08:12 AM) *

Made the long trip back from PHX to San Diego with the 914/6...
Attached Image

Only to get home and have the fuel pump take a $Hit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif)
Attached Image

No pressure @ the fuel rail
Attached File  IMG_4914.MOV ( 1.68mb ) Number of downloads: 83


Is the pump running? Check for 12v while starting motor. DME relay? I always keep a spare in the glove compartment.
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ndfrigi
post May 19 2020, 01:06 PM
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QUOTE(Gatornapper @ May 18 2020, 06:38 PM) *

Update on dropped engine: cleaned it last week.

Today: Bead blasted heater valves & one valve cover - ready for paint.

Adjusting valves is SO EASY with engine down, got 1 and 2 done, but cannot rotate engine to get it in position for 3 & 4 - hits just before high point on cam and I cannot rotate the impeller even with leverage - like it hits a brick wall…….yes, plugs are out so no compression issues. Intake on 1 was correct, 2 was too tight at 5 thou. Exhaust was way too tight on both at 7 or less, but now all 4 are correct.

Guess I’ll have to bump the engine over with the battery tomorrow to get 3 & 4. Unless someone has a tip on how to rotate the engine manually while it is out. I tried strap wrench and then a large lever on mounting flanges on impeller, being very careful to not touch a blade......

GN


not sure if you tried using the alternator to rotate the engine (assuming belt is installed).
I think 17 wrench to rotate it from the alternator
nut.
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Gatornapper
post May 19 2020, 04:46 PM
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Thanks for the tip - but alternator is off, have new one to install. See my update to my post - cranking engine with starter loosened everything up to where I could again rotate the impeller easily by hand.

GN

QUOTE(ndfrigi @ May 19 2020, 01:06 PM) *

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ May 18 2020, 06:38 PM) *

Update on dropped engine: cleaned it last week.

Today: Bead blasted heater valves & one valve cover - ready for paint.

Adjusting valves is SO EASY with engine down, got 1 and 2 done, but cannot rotate engine to get it in position for 3 & 4 - hits just before high point on cam and I cannot rotate the impeller even with leverage - like it hits a brick wall…….yes, plugs are out so no compression issues. Intake on 1 was correct, 2 was too tight at 5 thou. Exhaust was way too tight on both at 7 or less, but now all 4 are correct.

Guess I’ll have to bump the engine over with the battery tomorrow to get 3 & 4. Unless someone has a tip on how to rotate the engine manually while it is out. I tried strap wrench and then a large lever on mounting flanges on impeller, being very careful to not touch a blade......

GN


not sure if you tried using the alternator to rotate the engine (assuming belt is installed).
I think 17 wrench to rotate it from the alternator
nut.

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Gatornapper
post May 19 2020, 04:49 PM
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Got all valves adjusted today, also sand-blasted valve covers and heat flow valves then painted them. My paint work on engine parts is not worthy of posting......IMHO......

Just glad to be making progress......

GN
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Craigers17
post May 19 2020, 05:08 PM
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Taped up the mold for the front oil cooler shroud, and started applying the fiberglass. I only got about 3/4 across the top before my rookie error of mixing up too much resin & hardener in advance bit me in the ass. It started gelling up and I had to stop as I had created a tennis ball-sized, seething blob of chemical heated excess resin.

Yah....I'm an idiot. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

Also removed the front trunk access plugs to provide an exit for the warm air coming off the cooler.

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Jett
post May 19 2020, 07:31 PM
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Took the car for a spin with my wife, on the weekend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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bkrantz
post May 19 2020, 09:26 PM
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QUOTE(simonjb @ May 17 2020, 08:20 PM) *

Went for coffee in New Canaan CT today...

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What yellow is that?
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9fourteen14
post May 20 2020, 07:44 AM
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QUOTE(yellowporky @ Apr 16 2020, 08:20 PM) *

Front of car all done. Now to focus on drive train.


what did you use to paint the inner wheel body section?

i have my teener home now and need to do a few things
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eric9144
post May 20 2020, 10:57 AM
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QUOTE(Steve @ May 19 2020, 10:19 AM) *

Is the pump running? Check for 12v while starting motor. DME relay? I always keep a spare in the glove compartment.

Pump seems to jerk when energized but not actually kick off, tried to persuade it with some taps from a hammer and still no pressure @ the fuel rail (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
Ordered 2 DME relays and a fuel pump, all of which arrive today.
Super frustrating but (hopefully) an easy fix. I knew there'd be some issues as the car basically was "stored" for the better part of 6 years prior to me getting it.
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