what did you do to your 914 today Options

[mrbubblehead]

i just wanted to start a thread to see what you guys do day to day on your cars.

i'll start,

about a month ago, i pulled my engine and trans to put in a new clutch. had the flywheel lightened and resurfaced. but what i didnt know is that i had to shim the little ball that the clutch arm rides on, after a resurfacing. so guess what i did today?

yup, pulled the trans and put an extra washer under the ball. you have to goop up both washers to get it to seal because the threaded hole goes all the way thru to the inside of the trans. i also replaced the plastic cup that the ball rides in. the throwout bearing and its little plastic blocks were fine so i buttoned every thing back up. 5 hours total. i think this has been the cheapest repair yet on my car. $2.75 for the little plastic cup.

what did you do to your 914 today?

[Shivers]

@Chaznaster

Nice work.

[Gatornapper]

Adjusted the valves in Ruby tonight. Of course not until I removed the heat exchangers, heat valves, exhaust, et al.

Tomorrow put it all back together and re-map the advance curve in my 123ignition Dizzy to a conservative performance curve.

Looking forward to what the new tune will do........lovin' the fruit of my 7 years work.....at today's shop labor rates of $149/hour, that's about $149,000 I'm guessing.....

Worth it? In money, no. In personal reward? Yes.

GN

[Shivers]

Got the polishing done and it looked great for my first time polishing magnesium. Two hours later it was begining to show a fog that didn't wipe off. The internet tells me mag is highly reactive to oxygen. Enter clear high temp engine paint. So it was re-polish the piece, run inside and wash off the piece with degreaser soap, dry it quick and spray it. I had the path clear to the oven since it took two hands to move the piece. Not sure how well it is going to stay on but after baking it doesn't look bad.

[Pursang]

Well, it was yesterday, actually. A break in the rainy weather and I had the choice to wash and wax the teener or go for a drive. Difficult, I know. Headed south from our home and did an 80 mile loop down the Willamette Valley. Stopped for lunch at a favorite, small town Mexican restaurant. Wonderful day. This summer will mark 37 years that I have owned this great little car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[mmichalik]

I ended up pulling off the steering wheel and replacing the bearing and the turn signal/wiper switch assembly. Thanks @garoldshaffer , it looks like that piece solved my issue.
Next weekend will be a cut and polish.

[DRPHIL914]

Adjusted the valves in Ruby tonight. Of course not until I removed the heat exchangers, heat valves, exhaust, et al.

Tomorrow put it all back together and re-map the advance curve in my 123ignition Dizzy to a conservative performance curve.

Looking forward to what the new tune will do........lovin' the fruit of my 7 years work.....at today's shop labor rates of $149/hour, that's about $149,000 I'm guessing.....

Worth it? In money, no. In personal reward? Yes.

GN

sounds like it’s running good-
if we had to pay $200/hour( not going to find $150/hr at a porsche or independent here, maybe firestone, but anyway yea man if not for us working in our cars they would not be on the road for the cost would outweigh their worth. 15 years of i dont know home many hours of my own work, and even now i think i need to pull my motor and transmission it we be do to have the 5000 mile valve recheck and i have a slight leak that looks like it’s coming from between the cylinder and case. i am hooping it will be a simple as torque the heads down.

[DRPHIL914]

and i think i said that wrong above, that drip seems to be coming from between the cylinder and the head shown here int his picture, but i may possibly be seeing a seeping from where the cylinder and case interface as well, but mainly here , above picture is the driver side , this is #1 .- question is , should i drop the motor and trans and get this checked? its easier to do the valve adjustment with it out too anyway, and that way i can actually leave the exhaust and transmission all together in one piece. and while that is out i can have the engine lid hinge brackets replaced since they are cracked. which means i might as well go ahead and finally repaint the whole firewall......

[930cabman]

and i think i said that wrong above, that drip seems to be coming from between the cylinder and the head shown here int his picture, but i may possibly be seeing a seeping from where the cylinder and case interface as well, but mainly here , above picture is the driver side , this is #1 .- question is , should i drop the motor and trans and get this checked? its easier to do the valve adjustment with it out too anyway, and that way i can actually leave the exhaust and transmission all together in one piece. and while that is out i can have the engine lid hinge brackets replaced since they are cracked. which means i might as well go ahead and finally repaint the whole firewall......

I would pull it and it sounds as though you've got the rest of it figured. Any chance you can run her on a test bench? prior to refitting? Would be a good check for oil leaks

[BillJ]

My good Dr. You are gonna have the only 914 engine with no leaks. Even if it takes forever. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

[fixer34]

Drove it for about a half hour over suburban 'back roads'. First time she has been out this year. Hit 75 degrees in Chicago today.

[rjames]

Set up the angle for the eye bolts on the steering rack according to the specs from the manual.

Cobbled together a "jig" to set the angle ...
* Leveled the auxiliary/carrier bar in the vice referenced to the bench
* Mounted the rack
* Ran some M10 threaded rod through the eyelets
* Shimmed the rod to align it with the axis of the eyelet eye
* 3D printed a holder for one of those magnetic cubes that displays its current angle
* Put the cube in the holder and zeroed it to the bench
* Hung the holder/cube from the end of the rod - it is light, so no flex
* Adjusted the eyelet until the cube read 9 degrees below horizontal
* Done

It all worked out pretty smoothly and was good fun to figure out ...

Interesting. Makes me wonder why the lack of an off angle isn't an issue with the turbo tie rods.

[Jett]

Continued to paint strip the BB, back quarters, trunk, and trunk lid done…. Need more paint stripper…

[930cabman]

Continued to paint strip the BB, back quarters, trunk, and trunk lid done…. Need more paint stripper…

Are you using the back to Nature product?

[Chaznaster]

Set up the angle for the eye bolts on the steering rack according to the specs from the manual.

Cobbled together a "jig" to set the angle ...
* Leveled the auxiliary/carrier bar in the vice referenced to the bench
* Mounted the rack
* Ran some M10 threaded rod through the eyelets
* Shimmed the rod to align it with the axis of the eyelet eye
* 3D printed a holder for one of those magnetic cubes that displays its current angle
* Put the cube in the holder and zeroed it to the bench
* Hung the holder/cube from the end of the rod - it is light, so no flex
* Adjusted the eyelet until the cube read 9 degrees below horizontal
* Done

It all worked out pretty smoothly and was good fun to figure out ...

Interesting. Makes me wonder why the lack of an off angle isn't an issue with the turbo tie rods.

I understand that the turbo tie rods have a ball joint at the steering rack side. That lets them pivot in all directions so no need to dial it in specifically. It's the eye bolt in the standard setup that drives the requirement.

[Gatornapper]

DrPhil -

I am not so picky. A leak of one or two drips I am likely to ignore. Until it is worse.

But since you have a number of other issues you want to deal with, perhaps dropping the engine is a good thing.

Personally, I just want to drive my Ruby for a while and hang up the wrenches on her.

Anyway, I have need of wrenching on both my 944S and my Cayman S.

Yes, I'm spoiled with too may P-cars. Or I'd rather say blessed.

GN

Adjusted the valves in Ruby tonight. Of course not until I removed the heat exchangers, heat valves, exhaust, et al.

Tomorrow put it all back together and re-map the advance curve in my 123ignition Dizzy to a conservative performance curve.

Looking forward to what the new tune will do........lovin' the fruit of my 7 years work.....at today's shop labor rates of $149/hour, that's about $149,000 I'm guessing.....

Worth it? In money, no. In personal reward? Yes.

GN

sounds like it’s running good-
if we had to pay $200/hour( not going to find $150/hr at a porsche or independent here, maybe firestone, but anyway yea man if not for us working in our cars they would not be on the road for the cost would outweigh their worth. 15 years of i dont know home many hours of my own work, and even now i think i need to pull my motor and transmission it we be do to have the 5000 mile valve recheck and i have a slight leak that looks like it’s coming from between the cylinder and case. i am hooping it will be a simple as torque the heads down.

[Jett]

Continued to paint strip the BB, back quarters, trunk, and trunk lid done…. Need more paint stripper…

Are you using the back to Nature product?

Using Citristrip … https://citristrip.com/paint-varnish-stripping-paste-tub/

I apply and then cover with plastic for 24 hours… usually takes two passes to get everything. I have a series of cheap plastic razor blades to scrape off the paint.

[DRPHIL914]

and i think i said that wrong above, that drip seems to be coming from between the cylinder and the head shown here int his picture, but i may possibly be seeing a seeping from where the cylinder and case interface as well, but mainly here , above picture is the driver side , this is #1 .- question is , should i drop the motor and trans and get this checked? its easier to do the valve adjustment with it out too anyway, and that way i can actually leave the exhaust and transmission all together in one piece. and while that is out i can have the engine lid hinge brackets replaced since they are cracked. which means i might as well go ahead and finally repaint the whole firewall......

I would pull it and it sounds as though you've got the rest of it figured. Any chance you can run her on a test bench? prior to refitting? Would be a good check for oil leaks

My good Dr. You are gonna have the only 914 engine with no leaks. Even if it takes forever. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

welll i was leak free for a while , and i agree just to make sure i think that’s the way to go but i am like gatornapper i want to drive it and enjoy it, but im a bit OCD about the drips its dripping there onto the head exchanger so i dont see it on the ground yet, but i know its there. either way i am driving not towing to florida for Werks and i am glad its running so well right now! but yes the goal is NO leaks!! took me 3x to get the rms perfect and the push rod tubes not leaking either , i can confirm i have no leaks there or from any galley plugs so there is that…

[anderssj]

Drove the 914 another 70 miles yesterday…and everything still works. But it does drip onto the blitz pan a little when I’m not driving it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Gatornapper]

Steve -

So glad to hear this. Don't Driving and Drips go together? Are they not inseparable?

And aren't small drips almost a requirement of owning a 914?

Maybe "Proof of Ownership"?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

GN

Drove the 914 another 70 miles yesterday…and everything still works. But it does drip onto the blitz pan a little when I’m not driving it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Gatornapper]

Oh - drove mine almost 90 miles to Amelia, VA and back yesterday with RickB following in his 944.

Wonderful day in rural VA twisties....

GN