Aftermarket vendor called me stupid...what do you think? Options

[ChrisFoley]

We worked on a '73 2 liter last year that had less than 30,000 miles and hadn't been driven in 20 years. It was stored in a climate controlled garage nearly the entire time. After the work was done I told the owner he might get close to $25K for it. Driving it was the closest I've ever been to a new 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Another car we worked on last year was a '76 2 liter, also with low mileage. A couple things had been altered from stock, but nothing irreversible. That was a possible $19.5K car.
I think the biggest problem on both cars was the same thing - stuck brake caliper pistons. The cars weren't being driven enough to get the regular maintenance they needed.

We service plenty of nice 914s which aren't worth anywhere near those two special cars. But they are still clean, solid, mostly stock vehicles which the owners may drive 5000 miles a year or more. Some of those are late model cars with backdated bumpers, done professionally, and they look pretty nice! I see no reason to avoid backdating a late model 914 unless the car is a preservation class contender.

[SchwarzHorse]

Excellence magazine's buyer's guide compiled by Porsche elder B. Anderson listed $14,600 as the highest 2011 value for a '75 914/4 with a 2.0L + 10% for certain attributes like low mileage and originality.
Currently, you've got that and my favorite 914 body color. But, I feel that $19,500 is an overvaluation and agree with Jim Kelly about expenditures on Porsches often exceeding resale receipts; I just simply squash these feelings believing that the joy and performance returns of driving an air-cooled Porsche roadster through any hilly and curvaceous countryside as often as I can will eternally remain worth every lost penny.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[Scott S]

I have never thought of the 914 as an investment. If you have a dead stock, totally original, pristine, original paint, surgically clean 914-6 it might be considered an investment. Someone in Europe might pay big bucks (euros) for it. Otherwise back date those fugly bumpers, reinforce the body, install flairs, squeeze in a 3.6 and drive it like you stole it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) These cars are about fun. (My .20 worth)
Cheers, Elliot

Yup. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) 1000%

I will even donate some jigsaw/sawsall blades for your flair job. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

I love my 914 - as well as many other cars on this site. But I love them for what they are right now. If you want to invest in a car, the list of potential cars is a mile long before you get to a 914-4 - maybe even 100 miles long.

Look at some of the fantastic restoration threads on this site - heck, look at some of the restorations done to well known/pedigreed 914-6 race cars - most have had extensive metal work done to them in the process (I think the Kremer car even has new front and rear clips). You can always put the car back if they become valuable some day. But until that monster raises it's head out of Loch Ness, have fun with the thing.

My daily driver Honda just hit 50k miles. It has never been in an accident, nothing has been touched other than tires - and they were replaced with the exact same make and model thet the car came with. The car looks and drives like new. Should I throw it into storage for my grand kids - just in case? It is a rare, fully loaded, but with no-sunroof version..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Tom_T]

Also get a Certificate of Authenticity (COA) from Porsche/PCNA to make sure that it's engine (and transaxle) numbers match what is in the 914 now - vs. what the Porsche "Kardex" build records on microfilm/digiat at PCNA say they are/were. A non-numbers matching car with a swapped engine or rebuilt 2.0 from a 1.8 OE will not be worth as much.

good advice, i was just going by the published #'s. I know they don't have vin #'s on engines to actually have matching #'s like American muslce cars do, here are the numbers on the engine GC000243, the VIN is 4752900696, and it was built 8/74

Sorry I wasn't clear enough on that.

While they don't stamp the VIN on the drivetrain, Porsche/PCNA will have build records that show your motor's GC # & the transaxle no. (found stamped along the bottom center longitudinal rib of the case) would hopefully have a match with the Porsche Kardex.

PCNA will then use that info. to create a COA for you as a matching nos. P-car - same end result as your 70's muscle car example, just a different route. PCNA usually has the engine nos. but often o record of the transaxle # (they may ask you to email pix of the nos.). You can probably confirm the numbersmatching over the phone by reading them the nos., when you call the Porsche USA/NA 800 # to order it.

Also the PCA membership will save you about $20 off the COA fee IIRC, as well as 20% off dealer parts, the national & local monthly magazines, plus events & people - so worth $46/yr. IMHO.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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[EdwardBlume]

Perhaps we could start a 914 oversight committee that would enforce standards on what 914 owners can and can't do. We could ensure compliance by taxing 914 owners $1000 a year and hire beer drinking 914 compliance directors to drive around and inspect cars for unsatisfactory proliferation of rust, untasteful modifications (we will need a standards regulation manual, and a permanent committee to create and modify it), and provide protection for the good of 914 owners from themselves and the evil 99% (people who have bigger cars).

On second thought, do whatever you want with your 914!

That's the fun of it. Sure there's folks who have their ideas about what you should do, and we all need CWs and highly artistic customizers, but have a thick skin and keep your own dream alive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Type 47]

Also get a Certificate of Authenticity (COA) from Porsche/PCNA to make sure that it's engine (and transaxle) numbers match what is in the 914 now - vs. what the Porsche "Kardex" build records on microfilm/digiat at PCNA say they are/were. A non-numbers matching car with a swapped engine or rebuilt 2.0 from a 1.8 OE will not be worth as much.

good advice, i was just going by the published #'s. I know they don't have vin #'s on engines to actually have matching #'s like American muslce cars do, here are the numbers on the engine GC000243, the VIN is 4752900696, and it was built 8/74

Sorry I wasn't clear enough on that.

While they don't stamp the VIN on the drivetrain, Porsche/PCNA will have build records that show your motor's GC # & the transaxle no. (found stamped along the bottom center longitudinal rib of the case) would hopefully have a match with the Porsche Kardex.

PCNA will then use that info. to create a COA for you as a matching nos. P-car - same end result as your 70's muscle car example, just a different route. PCNA usually has the engine nos. but often o record of the transaxle # (they may ask you to email pix of the nos.). You can probably confirm the numbersmatching over the phone by reading them the nos., when you call the Porsche USA/NA 800 # to order it.

Also the PCA membership will save you about $20 off the COA fee IIRC, as well as 20% off dealer parts, the national & local monthly magazines, plus events & people - so worth $46/yr. IMHO.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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I wasn't aware you could get the #'s verified and it be "number matching" thanks.

as far as PCA membership goes...I wish I had joined when I bought my 1st 914...I would be a 34 year member instead of a 17n year member...that reminds me my renual is due this month.

[Type 47]

I have read every word of each post and I have decided what to do.

I'm going to put the FI back on and get it running properly, then I'm going to take it out of the car and disasemble for painting.

While it's getting body work done I'm going to rebuild a 73' 2L long block I have. Any advise on that would be apreciated. Probably put the Webers on it with a cam, maybe some larger pistons...you guy tell me what you think. Wanting something that sounds good around 120 hp, idles good, etc.

Before the car leaves for paint, I will have removed the Fed bumbpers and cut off the tabs and drilled holes for the 70-72 era bumpers that will go back on.

It needs new rear springs & struts. I will also steam clean the transaxle and probably have the engine sheet metal powder coated depening on how they look.

That's the plan so far. Thanks for everyones input (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I did think very much about the originality of the car but what I realized is that if I went that route it would always be just a mediocre stock 75 914 nit pick everywhere I went.

Thanks again and let me know about engine options

[ChrisFoley]

Before the car leaves for paint, I will have removed the Fed bumbpers and cut off the tabs and drilled holes for the 70-72 era bumpers that will go back on.

If you want to add the early front bumper reinforcements that weld in from the rear, we have a pattern to make them. Thanks to Scarlet75 for having us make a pair for his car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[carr914]

If you going to go all-out, have Jake build you a Motor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[mrbubblehead]

i'll buy those nasty ol' carbs off of you....

[timofly]

Obviously you can do what you want to with your car. BUT, I will tell you this: you cannot modify, rebuild, restore or otherwise screw around with these cars and come out ahead financially. If you want a '70-73 look, go buy the best one you can find and sell the '76 for what you can get.

This is not unique to 914s, by the way. Anything old is worth the most it can be worth in original condition and the only "improvements" you will make are to someone else's wallet. This is true of cars, houses, airplanes and boats. Ask me how I know. No, don't. I don't want to be reminded of my own stupidity!