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> Tangerine Racing cable linkage, Installation Guide pictorial.
mrbubblehead
post Jan 14 2012, 03:28 PM
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thanks for the photo ethan. i dont remeber cutting mine but i must have because its about the same length as yours. im sure chris cuts them all the same. i did have to readjust my master to slave cable just a touch....it was a little loose, either the cable stretched or i didnt get it perfect the first time. im sure it was the ladder cuz i was in a hurry putting it together. never the less you may wantt to take a peak at it in 4 to 5 months. i came from a bell crank system. and this kit is night and day. the old bell crank was kinda nothcy thru its travel. and marks system is smooooth. plus i dont think i was getting full throttle with the old bell crank. i know i am now. but i did like the ease if engine removal with the old bell crank tho....just pop the arm off the carb end and done. this system may be a little more involved. maybe chris can share a short cut with us....this kit rocks. more of this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) and no more of this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) you may want to add something to your tutorial that i found out- do your cable adjustments and syncronization on a hot engine. the engine grows from when its cold, and will throw everything off. been there done that.

heres a pick of my master to slave cable.....

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i722.photobucket.com-12492-1326576528.1.jpg)
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 14 2012, 05:27 PM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 14 2012, 04:28 PM) *

thanks for the photo ethan. i dont remeber cutting mine but i must have because its about the same length as yours. im sure chris cuts them all the same. i did have to readjust my master to slave cable just a touch....it was a little loose, either the cable stretched or i didnt get it perfect the first time. im sure it was the ladder cuz i was in a hurry putting it together.

There are several variable which affect the distance between the end mounts.
I can see in your picture that the cable bracket is flipped compared to Ethan's.

The cable is going to stretch a small amount and the sheath ends may "seat" a bit in the adjusters, so the adjustment should be checked once or twice during the first 100 miles or so.
QUOTE

: you may want to add something to your tutorial that i found out- do your cable adjustments and syncronization on a hot engine. the engine grows from when its cold, and will throw everything off. been there done that.

Since the cable "floats" between the end mounts, the adjustment shouldn't change significantly between a cold and a hot engine. I haven't noticed any change on my DD. YMMV
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'73-914kid
post Jan 14 2012, 08:57 PM
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Well, I spoke a little too soon about it not needing adjustment after 230 miles..haha. those were all freeway miles, so I didn't really notice anything going out of balance. Drove about 30 miles of stop and go today, and noticed that things had come a little out of adjustment. Not much, but enough for it to be noticeable.

Break out two 11mm wrenches, loosen up the cable, tighten adjuster about 1 full turn, and things are back to running perfectly. It really is mind blowingly easy to sync, and re-sync.

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jmill
post Jan 14 2012, 09:35 PM
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Chris, do you have a kit for a 6? Seems like it would work the same besides the bracket on the carbs.
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 15 2012, 06:58 PM
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QUOTE(jmill @ Jan 14 2012, 10:35 PM) *

Chris, do you have a kit for a 6? Seems like it would work the same besides the bracket on the carbs.

I haven't checked to see what specific changes might be needed to use the kit on a 6.
I was under the impression that everyone likes using the oe design linkage so it wasn't on even my list of projects.

I have a 3.5L at the shop with PMOs and a 2.7L with a set of ITBs I can look at for compatibility issues.

We have installed a kit on a -4 with Jenvey ITBs and we have a customer car with TWMs here which will be getting a kit installed in the near future.
Jenveys don't have a threaded end on the throttle shaft so it took a slightly different approach to attach the pulleys. Also, the throttle shaft is at a different height relative to the flange mating surface so we had to raise the bracket on the mounting studs, but installation wasn't that difficult and didn't require machining any new pieces.
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jmill
post Jan 15 2012, 07:36 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Jan 15 2012, 06:58 PM) *

I was under the impression that everyone likes using the oe design linkage so it wasn't on even my list of projects.


Your design would appeal to the conversion guys and 911 folks. It saves finding all the linkage bits and routing the cable around the trans. Much shorter and cleaner install IMHO without all the bellcrank monkey motion.
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Harpo
post Jan 16 2012, 09:26 AM
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Doesn't Raby have something similat to this. I can't find it on his web site but his banner shows something he calls Sync-Link throttle system. Does anyone have expierence with this? I'm not knocking Chris's system I just want to know what my options are.

Thanks

David
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'73-914kid
post Jan 16 2012, 10:51 AM
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Im not sure on the status of the sync-link system Jake advertises, as i dont see it in his store. I went with the available option.

When the day comes for a 6 conversion, i would definetely be in for a cable operated system for sixes Chris. Id agree with the fact that it avoids the hassle of acquiring or fabricating a linkage that goes back to the gearbox.
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VaccaRabite
post Jan 16 2012, 11:49 AM
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QUOTE(aharder @ Jan 12 2012, 10:33 AM) *

Thanks for the information. I'm planning on dual Webers
and I have been interested in this set up. Now I know I'll
be saving my spare change also...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


I have a set of dual 40s with Chris's linkage installed, decided to go EFI instead. Was going to sell at Hershey, but send me a PM if you are interested.

I can tell anyone interested in this product - it blew away the action I got with my old hex bar linkage. I have never seen carbs as easy to balance as they were with the cable linkage.

Zach
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 16 2012, 12:03 PM
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QUOTE(Gint @ Jan 14 2012, 03:31 PM) *

QUOTE
My solution, shorten it.

So, did you have to shorten the cable also? Just the sheath? Did it have a metal end on it and if so were you able to put it back on?

I didn't know Chris made those. A carb cable linkage kit that isn't vapor ware. How much are they?

I don't recommend shortening the cable unless it's absolutely necessary. We weld the end to prevent fraying.
The sheath slips into the metal adjusters on the ends - piece of cake.
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