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> Idle 200RPM's Too High, can't find any vacuum leaks
Bruce Allert
post Sep 4 2004, 11:36 PM
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Posted this on the Bird Board too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

The idle adjustment on my 74 2.0 D-jet is screwed in all the way. Idle is at 1100 when fully warm. AAR disconnected & plugged. Used starting fluid to check for vacuum leaks... there ain't none! Spent the better part of an hour sprayin here & there but
nadda:( Valves adjusted, timing spot on, Pertronics)

I was running an 044 ECU with an 043 MPS and the original 012 CHT. I switched them out and used the components from the old 1.7...

037 ECU, 049 MPS and the year old CHT but I can't remember what its number is!

What else can be causing this to idle 200 rpms high? Sometimes it's up to 1500 at a stop light? The AAR works and when it's connected it won't idle in the 1500 to 1800 range like its supposed to when it's cold. It starts hard, gotta keep my foot on the gas to keep it up to 1500+ then runs good after 5 minutes or so.

I'm perplexed:rolleyes: Any ideas?

Maybe I should just drive it & be content, eh?
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Andyrew
post Sep 5 2004, 12:26 AM
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Be content... its better than 1k to high.....

*cough*
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redshift
post Sep 5 2004, 01:00 AM
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The throttle return spring is stretched out... or the arm is hanging... or it something else mechanical..

What did you find?


M
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ChrisReale
post Sep 5 2004, 03:10 AM
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Maybe there is a Fat Tire bottle cap stuck in the throttle body, not allowing it to close....maybe?
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JoeSharpOld
post Sep 5 2004, 04:03 AM
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Does it seem cold to you
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Bruce: Gosh, thats what mine does, and I'm really happy to have it running. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I though thats just the way it is.
Joe
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redshift
post Sep 5 2004, 05:01 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


Uhh.... is there a possibility that my newish PIECE OF SHIT is actually running better than the national average?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

FUCK NO! But it's always nice to know that your cars suck too.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


M
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Bruce Allert
post Sep 5 2004, 07:19 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) thanks guys.... guess I'm destined to be content, eh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

BUT........

I awoke this morning (better than not awaking! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif) ) with a revelation (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

If the AAR is plugged into the plennum (basically) to the same chamber only on different sides, it stands to reason that it won't raise idle due to it's not getting outside air into the engine, right? Mine is plugged into the port by the cold start valve and then the other side is in the plennum almost exactly opposite of that in the lower side of the plennum, which to me would be the same chambers. Is the plennum split up into different chambers? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I gots me some vacuum lines hooked up wrong, I bet. I look & look at the drawings & pictures of the lines but it jes'don't make sence sometimes.....

but at least I awoke (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

.........b
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Bruce Allert
post Sep 5 2004, 08:28 AM
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Another revelation... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

Does the right side of the AAR plug into the air cleaner??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

....b
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94teener
post Sep 5 2004, 08:42 AM
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Bruce,

Maybe your timing is retarded just a little. It doesn't take much to kick up the rpm.

Phil
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redshift
post Sep 5 2004, 11:08 AM
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Bruce... the side closest to the driver plug into the phegm... plehgln... the pleghlu..

<_<

The other tube, pointing more towards the passenger side plugs into one of those forward doohickeys on the air crean... the ail clrae.. the...

The box.

Yes.

A plugged AAR is bassically one that is discoed from the AIR BOX, and TAPE OVER THAT..

The plegnum... the phlemgun.. the... aww shucks.. is where the air goes, unmetered.


M
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Bruce Allert
post Sep 5 2004, 11:16 AM
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Ya! wha'chu said (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif)
it was funnier when I put a Georgian accent wit it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

My revelation was eye opening since it happened when I opened my eyes this morning!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

Thanks Miles

...b
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john rogers
post Sep 5 2004, 01:39 PM
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Well, when spraying carb cleaner won't find the leak, I have to pull the hoses and look at the ends. If the hose is cloth covered, sometimes it will soak the fluid and you will not notice any change in the idle. As a matter of fact, that is what I do about yearly any more just to save trouble. Also I look around and under the inlet plenum to see if there are anay cracks or holes as both of ours has had holes brazed shut!! I also pull the throttle body to see if it shuts completely. I also check the diaphragm in the distributor vac advance mechanism with my Mighty Vac. Finally I will look at the seals on the injectors but if the small ones cracks or the plastic tip gets lost there will be some backfiring too. Good luck
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Aaron Cox
post Sep 5 2004, 02:17 PM
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ahh... the simplicity of carbs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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Bruce Allert
post Sep 5 2004, 02:54 PM
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I have new hoses and just this morning re-installed the original air cleaner and connected the AAR the way it's supposed to be. Also put back the 2.0 043 MPS. It runs smoother but still will not idle where it's supposed to when cold (1400 rpm's) or warmed up (900 rpm's).

At least it runs good after warming & has power (IMG:style_emoticons/default/burnout.gif) t'boot!

......b
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J P Stein
post Sep 5 2004, 03:30 PM
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As someone said, check your timing. If it's advanced too far it will idle high.
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Demick
post Sep 5 2004, 03:45 PM
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Could also be your decel valve (if you have that installed). Remove and plug the smallest line that goes to it. If your idle speed changes, then it is defective. It shouldn't pass any air at idle.

Demick
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Bruce Allert
post Sep 5 2004, 05:02 PM
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OK... OK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

As for the decel.... Got rid of that long time ago, but thanks anyway (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

....b
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redshift
post Sep 5 2004, 05:16 PM
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Set it hot, and make it around the 27btdc that the factory called for, slight over-advance has little effect on making your car punk(in) out ricers.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

In my experience, if you disco/plug the AAR (if you have one that works, asshole Otto) and do it after a nice hot run, then hook up the AAR, you'll find out that the AAR is probably sticking 'slightly' open, and running it up a couple hun-erd pmps... rms.. pmrs..

Oh heck! Revs!

M
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Bruce Allert
post Sep 5 2004, 08:07 PM
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Thanks M, that could be my trouble. I didn't set it hot, just warm. I let it warm up in the shop while I did other things (cough) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) (cheap high became apparent) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) oh ya... ophen da door (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

No, not really! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

I have plugged the AAR after a drive & it doens't matter. As soon as I pull the hose off it it revs up so I know it's working but it won't do it on first start in the morning.. goofy thang. I'll do the hot timing tomorrow after I hang the curtains in da Beaver.

Something else that went Tits Up... my sewing machine blew its reverse cam. My wife says it sounds like a carpet machine <_<

......b
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Demick
post Sep 5 2004, 08:21 PM
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Setting the timing cold, warm, or hot shouldn't make any difference. You are simply setting the timing based on full centrifugal advance (which happens around 3000-3500rpm). Doesn't really matter what's going on engine wise to get it to that speed.

Demick
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