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> diggin into hell, Rustoration: You have to be strong
SpecialK
post Sep 18 2004, 02:11 PM
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The flux core seems to do a dandy job on thicker metal, but I can't turn it down far enough to weld the sheet metal. Not much control over the voltage and feeds (min., max., high, low). I wonder if there's some way to wire potentiometers to replace the two position switches (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I think I'll take your advice on the Gas MIG...I'll just rent one for now and see if I can't get some better results.



Michelko, how do you say "You've got balls!" in German? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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fiid
post Sep 18 2004, 03:05 PM
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Some flux core welders are upgradeable to mig for not very much cash. That's what I use, and I'm pretty happy with it.

Fluxcore really is a pain in the ass - my welds have gotten a lot better since I went mig.
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michelko
post Sep 18 2004, 03:12 PM
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Hi Special_K

"how do you say "You've got balls!" in German?" don´t know exactly what this means in english (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) and I definitfly don´t know how to say it in German.
Give me a hint.

I am using a MIG welder, works just fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge6.gif)
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SpecialK
post Sep 18 2004, 03:42 PM
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QUOTE(michelko @ Sep 18 2004, 01:12 PM)
Hi Special_K

"how do you say "You've got balls!" in German?" don´t know exactly what this means in english (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) and I definitfly don´t know how to say it in German.
Give me a hint.

I am using a MIG welder, works just fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge6.gif)

It's English/American slang for "You are one brave man to take on a task like that!", it's a compliment more or less. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

fiid: I'll see if they make a conversion kit for my welder, wonder if they make a "universal conversion kit" that'll work on cheap-ass 110V welders.
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BatAc
post Sep 18 2004, 10:26 PM
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Oh, if you haven't noticed I believe this is a classic (thread). Also Michelko, in the beginning that tar stuff the PO used I think maybe was an old halfass fix it solution. My car seems to have the same garbage.
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BatAc
post Sep 19 2004, 12:13 AM
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Michelko, I assume you're going to "sandwhich" together the inner wheelhouse sheet metal to the exising piece. Would one POR15 both pieces before welding together to insure the rust wont occur in between them???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
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SpecialK
post Sep 19 2004, 01:38 AM
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I don't know about michelko, but I'd "weld-through" primer the area to be welded, prep the welds and surrounding area affected by welding with an Ospho/Metal Ready solution, and then POR-15 it. I friggin' hate rust.....and I just noticed that the forum colors have turned that color....very funny! <_< Or maybe I've just seen so much of that color lately....
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trojanhorsepower
post Sep 19 2004, 07:28 AM
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I am not worthy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

How did you bend the metal? Do you have a break, if so what size?

How did you cut the metal? What gage are you using?

How the hell did you bend the metal with the 90 deg. Lip?

I am attempting this repair and am getting very frustrated. I appreciate any tips and your posting of this thread.

You do great work.

-Pete
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michelko
post Sep 20 2004, 04:09 AM
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I use rustconverter (fertan) on all old stuff and then paint it with some epoxy rust preventive paint called ferpox (both are german products, known for good results in restoration).
The welded pieces will also primed with weldable primer (don´t know the name).
After all work is done, all the caverns will be flushed with protective wax.
This should work for the next 100 years, cause the car will not see much rain in future(hope so) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Fabricating the new sheetmetall is realy not so hard. You need some special material. Think you can get it at your flaps. This material can easily be stretched and bent and has a coating that should prevent new rust.
next time I will take a Pic of the tools i used to fabricate all the stuff.

:gerflag
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BatAc
post Sep 21 2004, 03:41 PM
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On the inner wheelhouse when you take off the wheel "thingy-a- ma-jingy" that's what goes in those two holes!?! Correct me if I'm wrong but you could possibly replace this piece without an engine drop? Plus you could conceivably replace this piece without cutting into the fender?

Also instead of jus' a PO do we have POSPO???
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michelko
post Sep 25 2004, 09:53 AM
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The story goes on, ....slowly but steady (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) .
Did some cleaning and fitting the repair panel into the hole.
The suspensionconsole is fresh sandblasted and primed.
It is a little tricky to find the right position for the repair panel, because its position is realy important to find the right position for the suspension console.


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michelko
post Sep 25 2004, 09:55 AM
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nother one


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michelko
post Sep 25 2004, 09:55 AM
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from the inside


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michelko
post Sep 25 2004, 09:57 AM
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nother


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michelko
post Sep 25 2004, 10:10 AM
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I wil have to do some more cleaning till i can wels the pieces together.

I hate cleaning and i hate rust (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)

But i can see light at the end of thre tunnel (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge6.gif)
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BatAc
post Sep 25 2004, 10:30 AM
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Jus' in time my man! I was jus' 'bout to post this question:

I'm looking to get the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal panel to "sandwhich" flush. It's jacked up some an' the wheel is off. Looking at it there seems to be several things in the way. These or this would be the bracket for the rear suspension console (ear) it seems? It creats a "hump", I believe Brad called it "scab" metal??? Is this thing (growth, "what not") spot welded in or something??? The controling arm goes from the hole in the ear towards the outside to the fender. This is also where the tiny bracket (that little piece of flat metal) from the fender to this area connects. If you look you see it creats a "hump" for lack of a better word. If someone has put the wheelhouse as a solid piece flush I believe they understand my convoluted question.
The "ear" will have to come off as well, so this might be that whole section. I don't know. Also can one put the "ear" on without cutting the engine shelf?

Sorry no images (the irony here is that I've made a living for more than a quarter of a century in photography but the only camera I currently possess is a 4x5 'n' that won't do for this.).

However, that hump is the "ear" isn't it??? Can you slid up the ear (support console) without cutting into the engine shelf??? Plus no need for pics there they are, thanks.
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michelko
post Sep 25 2004, 03:22 PM
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somewhere on the forum there is a thread from Brad Roberts i think. He managed to replace the ear witout cutting the engine shelf. Unfortunately don´t know how to find it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . The thread also contains pic´s of the process. Maybe you contact him directly and ask him about.
That "scab-metal" is MIG-welded, in my opinion.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge6.gif)
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watsonrx13
post Sep 25 2004, 06:49 PM
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Here's Brad's thread where he replaced the ear without removing the engine shelf. Hope this helps.
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BatAc
post Sep 25 2004, 07:01 PM
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Thanks, I appreciate that!
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michelko
post Sep 30 2004, 01:18 PM
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Here we go. Some progress pics.
Fitted the outer rockerand primed the inner.
Some new parts arrived today. Think i am now complete with the parts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)


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