MegaSquirt again......, 1971 with 73 1.7 and Side Shift Options

[falconfp2001]

I thought DIY has it as a complete free donwload package?

basic ts is free. There is an upgrade for 40 or something that gives you enhanced dashboards, better data logging and, most importantly, unlocks auto tune capability. I think it's worth it but it's definitely not required.

Good to know. I'll definitely register then. The autotune was the reason for buying in the first place and the be3st feature I think.

[Mike Bellis]

I have done a few of these systems. I recommend running separate grounds to each sensor. Bond tham all together at the ECU. While you can get away with a common ground, each sensor on the line will slightly change the values of each other sensor as the system operates. This can give you inconsistent results as you tune and inconsistent performance. Common grounds are more difficult to troubleshoot as well.

My $.02 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[falconfp2001]

I had some time tonight so I decided to do some Harness Work. Besides, it's going to rain all weekend so no chance to install my Gauge and O2 sensor.

I took the DIYAutotune witing harness and cut it in half. Basically, 6' for the Cockpit and 6 ' in the engine compartment.

Here is the first Connector I soldered up. Didn't take long. You just have to do steps. I first tinned the ends of all the wires. Then I tinned the heat sinks on the circular connector. Cut some small pieces of heat shrink, put a heat shrink over the wire end, solder it to the heat sink on the connector, next wire, put heat shrink on, solder it to heat sink. When you get one row done, you move the heat shrink tubing to cover the exposed copper and the heat sink on the connector for that row and then apply heat. Move on to the next row following the same steps. Put a peice of heat shrink on a wire, solder it to the heat shink......
Takes a bit of time but then you get a quality connector and good connections. I double checked the connections before I closed up the connectors.

This harness will go in the Engine bay

[falconfp2001]

Here is the Harness for the Cockpit. The Megasquirt will be put under the dash about dead center so this harness will come from either behind the drivers seat or passenger and then against the center tunnel to the front of the car. As you can see, it will be mounted with self tapping screws and also sealed with an o-ring I picked up. Weather proof. As a side note, I made sure to soldered the shield for the ignition wires to follow through the connector. Didn't really have to but I'm a stickler. I'm also getting shielded cable for the rest of the EDIS module wiring. I'm considering replacing some of the Sensor cables with paired shielded runs but I'm gonna wait and see. If the temps fluctuate then I may but if they don't then I'll just leave it.

[falconfp2001]

Here is both harnesses connected.

[ClayPerrine]

Where did you get that connector?

[falconfp2001]

Where did you get that connector?

found them on eBay. The thing is you need to buy two because they only give you one cable clamp each connector and you need two of them to really make a good harness.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320834927795?ssPag...984.m1439.l2649

[falconfp2001]

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

[914_teener]

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

Just curious.....you are using the 2:0 TB and plenum for future "upgrades" on engine displacements?

[falconfp2001]

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

Just curious.....you are using the 2:0 TB and plenum for future "upgrades" on engine displacements?

That is part of the plan. First to incorporate the 2.0 plenum on my 1.7 with the MS and ignition control. After which I will be building either a 2.0 (hard to find heads) or buildup a 1.7 to a 1.9 but I'd like find and use the three bolt heads for the build.

[914_teener]

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

Just curious.....you are using the 2:0 TB and plenum for future "upgrades" on engine displacements?

That is part of the plan. First to incorporate the 2.0 plenum on my 1.7 with the MS and ignition control. After which I will be building either a 2.0 (hard to find heads) or buildup a 1.7 to a 1.9 but I'd like find and use the three bolt heads for the build.

Great....I have the same plan so I quess you are beta testing. I have then a vested interest in you succeeding

My thoughts were to go with a set of 1.8 heads to 1911. Mostly because of availabilty and cost.

Good luck I'll stay tuned and help if I can.

[falconfp2001]

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

Just curious.....you are using the 2:0 TB and plenum for future "upgrades" on engine displacements?

That is part of the plan. First to incorporate the 2.0 plenum on my 1.7 with the MS and ignition control. After which I will be building either a 2.0 (hard to find heads) or buildup a 1.7 to a 1.9 but I'd like find and use the three bolt heads for the build.

Great....I have the same plan so I quess you are beta testing. I have then a vested interest in you succeeding

My thoughts were to go with a set of 1.8 heads to 1911. Mostly because of availabilty and cost.

Good luck I'll stay tuned and help if I can.

I may even be able to make the 2.0 intake system work with a 1.7 D-Jet, in theory.

I think I found some 2.0 intake runners so, I'll be waiting until they arrive to mock this up on my other 1.7 instead of cutting the runners.

[JamesM]

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

Just curious.....you are using the 2:0 TB and plenum for future "upgrades" on engine displacements?

That is part of the plan. First to incorporate the 2.0 plenum on my 1.7 with the MS and ignition control. After which I will be building either a 2.0 (hard to find heads) or buildup a 1.7 to a 1.9 but I'd like find and use the three bolt heads for the build.

Dont drill or cutup good 2.0 injection stuff, those parts are gettng expensive. If you dont currently have 1.7 stuff its dirt cheap so just buy it and replace it later if you upgrade the motor. Besides the 1.7 pipe diamater is quite a bit smaller then the 2.0 stuff, so even if you cut those to the length to fit the 2.0 plenum you still have that difference to deal with. Also, if the motor is still a 1.7 you may lose some low end torque using the bigger intake. If you are set on increasing the size of the intake look at the 1.8 parts. Same size runner diamater as the 2.0 but setup for the 4 bolt head. Larger plenum then the 1.7 and supposedly position of the throttle body is a better design then the 2.0 and the IAT sensor can be placed directly in the air path rather then off to the side like on the 2.0. Still waiting on some ebay parts to arive so i can confirm this, but i suspect the late 2.1 vanagon throttle body will bolt up to the 1.8 plenum with little modification giving you a larger throttle body then the 2.0 as well (around 50mm i believe) I think the 1.8 stuff is your best bet. I have actually been planning a 2056 build witha 4 bolt head just so I can use the 1.8 intake rather then my extra 2.0 stuff. Just be sure to get the plenum from a 74, the later part has EGR tubes clogging it up.

One of my favorite things about MS is it allows you to easily explore all sorts of different intake and exhaust options. I just wish I had my own dyno, I would love to see a comparison of the different intakes on the same motor.

[kwlane]

This is a great thread. Planning to install FI using 48mm throttle bodies, but need a new ECU. Can I ask about how much this Megasquirt system cost will all included?

[falconfp2001]

This is a great thread. Planning to install FI using 48mm throttle bodies, but need a new ECU. Can I ask about how much this Megasquirt system cost will all included?

It all depends on how much your willing to spend. You can either buy the kit and then build the board and ECU yourself or, you can buy the ECU pre-built.

Has helpful information.
http://www.diyautotune.com/
http://www.megasquirt.info/
http://www.autosportlabs.net/Main_Page

My D-Jet runs okay right now but the more I own the vehicle and drive it, the more small parts to the D-Jet crap out on me. Last year I spent around 800 for a mechanic to figure out what I couldn't. That alone is the price of MegaSquirt with some bells and whistles. I haven't really priced out everything I've lined up and already paid for but from estimates, I am in the ball park of around 800 - 900 but I've been buying parts here and there for about 6 months.

Figure Megasquirt is 400 if you build the ECU yourself and use the stock intake and sensors and setup for fuel only

Then you need an O2 sensor, wide band runs around 170 - 200. I purchased mine from Amazon for about 30 dollars off retail.
You can go narrow band which will only give you rich and lean settings but the sensor is about 30 new or you can pick one up from a junk yard.

I'd say you could add the Ignition control for another 250 but that depends on what you go with. I think crank trigger and a used Ford EDIS system is the best rout but you could go with a locked distributor also and keep the coil. (That would require you to modify the ECU to handle direct coil control).

Or the other option, pay 1600 for SDS and get a fully plug and play system.

My project is more about making my car more drivable and to improve the engine life. It's my daily driver right now but I'd like more dependability instead of keeping a full set of tools in the trunk. The MPG and HP gain are another bonus but I'm not racing this vehicle until I replace the engine with a Subi. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[falconfp2001]

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

Just curious.....you are using the 2:0 TB and plenum for future "upgrades" on engine displacements?

That is part of the plan. First to incorporate the 2.0 plenum on my 1.7 with the MS and ignition control. After which I will be building either a 2.0 (hard to find heads) or buildup a 1.7 to a 1.9 but I'd like find and use the three bolt heads for the build.

Dont drill or cutup good 2.0 injection stuff, those parts are gettng expensive. If you dont currently have 1.7 stuff its dirt cheap so just buy it and replace it later if you upgrade the motor. Besides the 1.7 pipe diamater is quite a bit smaller then the 2.0 stuff, so even if you cut those to the length to fit the 2.0 plenum you still have that difference to deal with. Also, if the motor is still a 1.7 you may lose some low end torque using the bigger intake. If you are set on increasing the size of the intake look at the 1.8 parts. Same size runner diamater as the 2.0 but setup for the 4 bolt head. Larger plenum then the 1.7 and supposedly position of the throttle body is a better design then the 2.0 and the IAT sensor can be placed directly in the air path rather then off to the side like on the 2.0. Still waiting on some ebay parts to arive so i can confirm this, but i suspect the late 2.1 vanagon throttle body will bolt up to the 1.8 plenum with little modification giving you a larger throttle body then the 2.0 as well (around 50mm i believe) I think the 1.8 stuff is your best bet. I have actually been planning a 2056 build witha 4 bolt head just so I can use the 1.8 intake rather then my extra 2.0 stuff. Just be sure to get the plenum from a 74, the later part has EGR tubes clogging it up.

One of my favorite things about MS is it allows you to easily explore all sorts of different intake and exhaust options. I just wish I had my own dyno, I would love to see a comparison of the different intakes on the same motor.

I like your idea about the 1.8 intake but I've already sourced all my 2.0 stuff. You may be right about the loss of low end torque but I think the type 4 engines were under powered to begin with. Besides, I can do a top end rebuild and have the intake and exhaust enlarged to solve that problem (cheaper than a full rebuild). I wonder if anyone has done a 2.0 intake on a 1.7 or 1.8 before. I know someone mentioned they built a 1911 and couldn't get the engine to perform well until they installed a 2.0 intake system but not before building up. All I need is the right heads.

Maybe it's time for a Turbo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) oops, that's the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) talking

[falconfp2001]

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

Just curious.....you are using the 2:0 TB and plenum for future "upgrades" on engine displacements?

That is part of the plan. First to incorporate the 2.0 plenum on my 1.7 with the MS and ignition control. After which I will be building either a 2.0 (hard to find heads) or buildup a 1.7 to a 1.9 but I'd like find and use the three bolt heads for the build.

Dont drill or cutup good 2.0 injection stuff, those parts are gettng expensive. If you dont currently have 1.7 stuff its dirt cheap so just buy it and replace it later if you upgrade the motor. Besides the 1.7 pipe diamater is quite a bit smaller then the 2.0 stuff, so even if you cut those to the length to fit the 2.0 plenum you still have that difference to deal with. Also, if the motor is still a 1.7 you may lose some low end torque using the bigger intake. If you are set on increasing the size of the intake look at the 1.8 parts. Same size runner diamater as the 2.0 but setup for the 4 bolt head. Larger plenum then the 1.7 and supposedly position of the throttle body is a better design then the 2.0 and the IAT sensor can be placed directly in the air path rather then off to the side like on the 2.0. Still waiting on some ebay parts to arive so i can confirm this, but i suspect the late 2.1 vanagon throttle body will bolt up to the 1.8 plenum with little modification giving you a larger throttle body then the 2.0 as well (around 50mm i believe) I think the 1.8 stuff is your best bet. I have actually been planning a 2056 build witha 4 bolt head just so I can use the 1.8 intake rather then my extra 2.0 stuff. Just be sure to get the plenum from a 74, the later part has EGR tubes clogging it up.

One of my favorite things about MS is it allows you to easily explore all sorts of different intake and exhaust options. I just wish I had my own dyno, I would love to see a comparison of the different intakes on the same motor.

I like your idea about the 1.8 intake but I've already sourced all my 2.0 stuff. You may be right about the loss of low end torque but I think the type 4 engines were under powered to begin with. Besides, I can do a top end rebuild and have the intake and exhaust enlarged to solve that problem (cheaper than a full rebuild). I wonder if anyone has done a 2.0 intake on a 1.7 or 1.8 before. I know someone mentioned they built a 1911 and couldn't get the engine to perform well until they installed a 2.0 intake system but not before building up. All I need is the right heads.

Maybe it's time for a Turbo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) oops, that's the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) talking

BTW, the cutting will be on 1.7 runners or the drilling will be on 2.0 flanges. no real loss either way just little less weight

[cary]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[kwlane]

Thanks for the cost info. Very good infoThe $1600 for plug and play all in system seems to be about what it takes for something like that. My goals are the same as your's, a good driver that runs smooth with good mileage and extra performance as well but not a race rig. Will post what I have and what end up doing when get to that stage of the project, and more money of course!

[falconfp2001]

I have done a few of these systems. I recommend running separate grounds to each sensor. Bond tham all together at the ECU. While you can get away with a common ground, each sensor on the line will slightly change the values of each other sensor as the system operates. This can give you inconsistent results as you tune and inconsistent performance. Common grounds are more difficult to troubleshoot as well.

My $.02 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Question for anyone, the wiring for MS says to hook up two banks of injectors

1&2
3&4

Are the injectors associated with cylinders? or are we talking left and right? How do I determine which bank is which?