I just purchased and received almost all my Megasquirt parts and I'm starting to plan for the build.

I was going to go with the following setup

1. 1.7L Stock FI with 2.0 Plenum and throttle body

2. 85 BMW Bosch TPS for an automatic transmission

2. Wells AC320 IAC valve

3. GM open element IAT

4. CHT Ring probe Changed to using the Stock CHT drilled out and using a thermistor held in place by epoxy. I drilled it out with a 3/16 bit

5. Innovate MTX wide-band O2 sensor and gauge combo

6. Megasquirt 2 PCB 3.57

7. Ford EDIS 4 with coil pack

8. 36-1 crank wheel with sensor

My first Task was to source the Plenum and the IAC valve. I purchased a very nice Plenum and then purchased an IAC from eBay. I had to then figure the best place to mount the IAC. DIYAutotune sells a billet mount for around 65.00 so I figured, why not make my own.

I then started to fabricate a mounting plate so I can use the same AAR inlet and mount the IAC where the cold start valve would go.

The Teflon inlet piece needed to be drilled out to a little over 3/4 of an inch for the IAC to fit but the pintle was too small to seal on the plenum.

So I drilled out the plenum just a tad, cut off one of the vacuum hose Metal fittings at the bead,

and bang. It fits like a washer. Now I beveled the ID of the Teflon fitting so it will have a tight seal on the washer.

It seals up fine.

All I have to do now is fabricate a mounting plate, source some inset bolts to replace the stock bolts, use some self tapping bolts to mount the IAC to the plate and done.

Here is the mounting plate I made. I replaced the bolts with inset hex bolts.

Here is the plate installed with IAC mounted as well.

Here is a shot with the TPS and pigtail installed. The 85 BMW automatics had a potentiometer TPS that would control the transmission. So, it basically the same as the 914 TPS in operation for the BMW. It contains three shielded wires that are the 5v reference, Return signal and the ground. I'm going to use two shielded for the ref and return and then a common ground for all sensors back to MS. With the exception of the O2 sensor which will be grounded under the dash.

Phase two

Installing the O2 sensor and gauge. I purchase the Innovate MTX-L. It is the sensor, cabling and gauge with integrated controller. The kit comes with a mild steel bung and about 12' of cabling. I figure if I can't get it from the back of the car to the dash with 12' then somethings wrong.

The system is totally separate so I'll install it first. What you don't see is the bung that was welded to my muffler. Just have to figure the best place to put the gauge and people suggest the ash tray and I'm tending to agree. Wish I could some how put it just under the dash as I'm not going to stair at it all the time. Just nice to have a peek. Oh well, I'll see what works.

Awesome! I just finished a MS2 v3.57fuel only install on my '71 1.7. I actually just took it for the first spin yesterday and starting to really get tuning today.
I really like your IAC solution. Right now I have it bypassed, so it idles a little low until its warm. Im also going to have to remember about those BMW TPS, I used one out of a Cadillac Catera and fabbed an adapter plate.
Again awesome work and keep us updated!
Kevin

Very cool.

+1 on the IAC solution. I just use the stock AAR on my setups but this looks like a real clean way to go and as a bonus plugs the 5th injector hole.

That TPS is a nice find as well, I will have to check that our as i have been building adaptor plates out of stock TPSs

Thanks, the IAC place i created is not completely vacuum sealed but i think it is enough to control idle. I checked by just blowing air and it holds but will leak. I several of the Teflon brackets so I'm going to experiment to get a better seal but I think it's fine.

Wow didn't even think of using the old TPS as an adapter plate. Do you have a pic?

I have some somewhere but i need to go digging for it. A few guys have done it this way. My primary motivation was so i could use the connection to the stock wiring harness.

BTW when you get to that point, Tunerstudio is worth the money.

I thought DIY has it as a complete free donwload package?

basic ts is free. There is an upgrade for 40 or something that gives you enhanced dashboards, better data logging and, most importantly, unlocks auto tune capability. I think it's worth it but it's definitely not required.

Good to know. I'll definitely register then. The autotune was the reason for buying in the first place and the be3st feature I think.

I have done a few of these systems. I recommend running separate grounds to each sensor. Bond tham all together at the ECU. While you can get away with a common ground, each sensor on the line will slightly change the values of each other sensor as the system operates. This can give you inconsistent results as you tune and inconsistent performance. Common grounds are more difficult to troubleshoot as well.

My $.02

I had some time tonight so I decided to do some Harness Work. Besides, it's going to rain all weekend so no chance to install my Gauge and O2 sensor.

I took the DIYAutotune witing harness and cut it in half. Basically, 6' for the Cockpit and 6 ' in the engine compartment.

Here is the first Connector I soldered up. Didn't take long. You just have to do steps. I first tinned the ends of all the wires. Then I tinned the heat sinks on the circular connector. Cut some small pieces of heat shrink, put a heat shrink over the wire end, solder it to the heat sink on the connector, next wire, put heat shrink on, solder it to heat sink. When you get one row done, you move the heat shrink tubing to cover the exposed copper and the heat sink on the connector for that row and then apply heat. Move on to the next row following the same steps. Put a peice of heat shrink on a wire, solder it to the heat shink......
Takes a bit of time but then you get a quality connector and good connections. I double checked the connections before I closed up the connectors.

This harness will go in the Engine bay

Here is the Harness for the Cockpit. The Megasquirt will be put under the dash about dead center so this harness will come from either behind the drivers seat or passenger and then against the center tunnel to the front of the car. As you can see, it will be mounted with self tapping screws and also sealed with an o-ring I picked up. Weather proof. As a side note, I made sure to soldered the shield for the ignition wires to follow through the connector. Didn't really have to but I'm a stickler. I'm also getting shielded cable for the rest of the EDIS module wiring. I'm considering replacing some of the Sensor cables with paired shielded runs but I'm gonna wait and see. If the temps fluctuate then I may but if they don't then I'll just leave it.

Here is both harnesses connected.

Where did you get that connector?

found them on eBay. The thing is you need to buy two because they only give you one cable clamp each connector and you need two of them to really make a good harness.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320834927795?ssPag...984.m1439.l2649

I'm now deciding weather to cut the intake runners or to source some 2.0 runners and just drill the bolt pattern.

I'll need to source the runners but I'm not sure if the top bolts on the heads line up.

I'll probably cut and then use Turbo boots to connect the plenum with the runners

Just curious.....you are using the 2:0 TB and plenum for future "upgrades" on engine displacements?

That is part of the plan. First to incorporate the 2.0 plenum on my 1.7 with the MS and ignition control. After which I will be building either a 2.0 (hard to find heads) or buildup a 1.7 to a 1.9 but I'd like find and use the three bolt heads for the build.

Great....I have the same plan so I quess you are beta testing. I have then a vested interest in you succeeding

My thoughts were to go with a set of 1.8 heads to 1911. Mostly because of availabilty and cost.

Good luck I'll stay tuned and help if I can.

I may even be able to make the 2.0 intake system work with a 1.7 D-Jet, in theory.

I think I found some 2.0 intake runners so, I'll be waiting until they arrive to mock this up on my other 1.7 instead of cutting the runners.

Dont drill or cutup good 2.0 injection stuff, those parts are gettng expensive. If you dont currently have 1.7 stuff its dirt cheap so just buy it and replace it later if you upgrade the motor. Besides the 1.7 pipe diamater is quite a bit smaller then the 2.0 stuff, so even if you cut those to the length to fit the 2.0 plenum you still have that difference to deal with. Also, if the motor is still a 1.7 you may lose some low end torque using the bigger intake. If you are set on increasing the size of the intake look at the 1.8 parts. Same size runner diamater as the 2.0 but setup for the 4 bolt head. Larger plenum then the 1.7 and supposedly position of the throttle body is a better design then the 2.0 and the IAT sensor can be placed directly in the air path rather then off to the side like on the 2.0. Still waiting on some ebay parts to arive so i can confirm this, but i suspect the late 2.1 vanagon throttle body will bolt up to the 1.8 plenum with little modification giving you a larger throttle body then the 2.0 as well (around 50mm i believe) I think the 1.8 stuff is your best bet. I have actually been planning a 2056 build witha 4 bolt head just so I can use the 1.8 intake rather then my extra 2.0 stuff. Just be sure to get the plenum from a 74, the later part has EGR tubes clogging it up.

One of my favorite things about MS is it allows you to easily explore all sorts of different intake and exhaust options. I just wish I had my own dyno, I would love to see a comparison of the different intakes on the same motor.

This is a great thread. Planning to install FI using 48mm throttle bodies, but need a new ECU. Can I ask about how much this Megasquirt system cost will all included?

It all depends on how much your willing to spend. You can either buy the kit and then build the board and ECU yourself or, you can buy the ECU pre-built.

Has helpful information.
http://www.diyautotune.com/
http://www.megasquirt.info/
http://www.autosportlabs.net/Main_Page

My D-Jet runs okay right now but the more I own the vehicle and drive it, the more small parts to the D-Jet crap out on me. Last year I spent around 800 for a mechanic to figure out what I couldn't. That alone is the price of MegaSquirt with some bells and whistles. I haven't really priced out everything I've lined up and already paid for but from estimates, I am in the ball park of around 800 - 900 but I've been buying parts here and there for about 6 months.

Figure Megasquirt is 400 if you build the ECU yourself and use the stock intake and sensors and setup for fuel only

Then you need an O2 sensor, wide band runs around 170 - 200. I purchased mine from Amazon for about 30 dollars off retail.
You can go narrow band which will only give you rich and lean settings but the sensor is about 30 new or you can pick one up from a junk yard.

I'd say you could add the Ignition control for another 250 but that depends on what you go with. I think crank trigger and a used Ford EDIS system is the best rout but you could go with a locked distributor also and keep the coil. (That would require you to modify the ECU to handle direct coil control).

Or the other option, pay 1600 for SDS and get a fully plug and play system.

My project is more about making my car more drivable and to improve the engine life. It's my daily driver right now but I'd like more dependability instead of keeping a full set of tools in the trunk. The MPG and HP gain are another bonus but I'm not racing this vehicle until I replace the engine with a Subi.

I like your idea about the 1.8 intake but I've already sourced all my 2.0 stuff. You may be right about the loss of low end torque but I think the type 4 engines were under powered to begin with. Besides, I can do a top end rebuild and have the intake and exhaust enlarged to solve that problem (cheaper than a full rebuild). I wonder if anyone has done a 2.0 intake on a 1.7 or 1.8 before. I know someone mentioned they built a 1911 and couldn't get the engine to perform well until they installed a 2.0 intake system but not before building up. All I need is the right heads.

Maybe it's time for a Turbo oops, that's the talking

BTW, the cutting will be on 1.7 runners or the drilling will be on 2.0 flanges. no real loss either way just little less weight

Thanks for the cost info. Very good infoThe $1600 for plug and play all in system seems to be about what it takes for something like that. My goals are the same as your's, a good driver that runs smooth with good mileage and extra performance as well but not a race rig. Will post what I have and what end up doing when get to that stage of the project, and more money of course!

Question for anyone, the wiring for MS says to hook up two banks of injectors

1&2
3&4

Are the injectors associated with cylinders? or are we talking left and right? How do I determine which bank is which?

The MS fire bank to bank. It doesent really matter which way you hook it up. It fires, left, right, left, right... If it were sequencial, you would need to line it up per cylinder.

So, just to clarify, we are talking injectors and not ignition? It sounds like a wasted spark type thing.

depending on options you can set MS to fire as sequential or wasted spark, or sequential or batch injection.

The simplest method that works great is batch injection with wasted spark.

Only MS2-Extra or MS3 firmware supports sequential injection and you need extra hardware (like a crank AND a cam sensor) to do it. Not much benifit to it either due to injector pulsewidth overlapping with valve timing at higher RPM anyways.
You would be putting a lot of extra work in for little if any gain.

got an Update.

I had a little time but I ran out of sun and decided I'll finish up in the morning then head off to work.

Installed my O2 Sensor. This pic shows where the bung was welded.

The second pic shows where I drilled to pass it through the fire wall. It goes about an inch right of the shift rod.

This compares the cables. I'm going to just tie it to the main harness and run it up under the carpet behind the dash.

I'll take some picks tomorrow after wiring it up.

This is the Innovate MTX-L. Over all length was 12' and it fit perfectly from the muffler all the way to the dash. I'm going to mount the Gauge off of the Ash Tray.

I wired it using switched 12v from the Fuse Panel under the dash. The fuse panel is setup to have power flowing from top to bottom and there are several open spades for adding accessories. Or just buy a spade jumper at a local Auto Parts. Be careful as all the red wires to the right on the fuse panel are hot without the key on. I used a circuit tester that I ground, then tested the next fuse left of the last red and it was cold. Turned the key to on, and it was hot. It had an open spade connection so I crimped a female spade and plugged it in.

With this Gauge, you have to also find the headlight source which is a yellow wire off the fuse panel but I just crimped a female spade and plugged in to the open connector next to it because they are both hot when the headlights are on and cold with them off. The purpose of this is to dim the gauge when it is dark out. I'll test and calibrate tomorrow.

Next Picture.

I tested the TPS and the wiring is as follows.

Black = +5v Reference
Yellow = Sensor return
Brown = Ground (like all German autos)

All of the wires tested perfectly when I hooked up to my multimeter.

I stripped the shield all the way back and took off the boot without ripping it. I'll look for a pin tool tomorrow to take out the pins and re crimp the connections to a paired shielded cable and also the common ground. before soldering to make permanent.

Next project for this plenum is to cut off the Temp Sensor and drill for mounting the GM open element style sensor. I purchased a flanged bung so It should mount fairly easy.

That stock temp sensor will work, you just need to tweak the values in MS. The open element sensor might be a bit better though as the stock sensor tends to get a lot of heatsoak, especally after a hot restart.

Another thought on this. If you are going to chage the sensor to the GM one you might want to leave the stock sensor in place and mount the GM sensor somewhere that is more directly in the airflow, like the air cleaner snorkle. the 1.7 places the sensor in a good place right after the TB but the 2.0 location is sort of tucked up out of the way.