Just got the O2 sensor calibrated and the Gauge mounted and wired. Looks nice. If I add another Gauge later I'll get the combo panel. Right now its the only extra Gauge I have but looks good.

As soon as I wired it up, I noticed my AFR was way off (as I suspected after my last visit to my Mechanic) so, I did some adjusting after I warmed up the engine.

Couldn't get the mixture right with my ECU idle mixture knob so I moved on to the fuel pressure regulator. Not surprisingly the mounting nut for the regulator was loose (must have been the mechanic). So, I tightened that, loosened up the lock nut on the adjustment bolt and adjusted to get the right AFR. Some of you are probably cringing right now because I didn't use a pressure gauge. I'll do that later.

I then let the car idle for about 20 minutes, then revved to 3000 and held for five minutes. idled for five, revved for five, idled for five. All while checking the AFR.

Engine was ate peak now and I was able to then adjust AFR with the ECU and the idle speed with the control screw on the TB.

Runs better.

That is why I purchased the GM IAT. Most people claim this is vapor lock but it's simply that the actually Air temp is off in the ECU.

Once started, the sensor will start to cool due to air flow but it depends on how long the engine sat. The GM IAT looks a little insulated and of course, exposed so it quickly adjusts to actual air temp. I'll need to apply some epoxy to the exposed wires under the element before installing

Here's a shot of the IAT. 3/8 NPT bung. You can just see the element that is only held in place by two small solid wires. Some break due to vibration so they recommend using epoxy glue to reinforce.

I was thinking of keeping the old sensor in place just so I could go back to stock sensors if needed but then I thought, why not go all in.

I drilled out the old mount and then inserted a bung to mount the new sensor. it actually seems to locate the Sensor into the airstream better than the old sensor. I'll post Pics later.

Over the weekend I was making my wiring harness while mocking everything up on my spare engine. I noticed while test fitting the new ring style CHT that the spark plugs are inset into the heads and the ring CHT thermistor is positioned to close to the ring to allow it to be bent without damaging the sensor.

Option B, drill out old CHT and make my own. Just have to figure out how to get it on without taking off the tin.

I also finished cutting the intake rails to fit with a 2.0L plenum

Here is the start of my fitment.

Picture 1 shows the 2.0 Plenum

Picture 2 shows another angle.

what you can not see clearly (sorry about that) is that the intake runners have to be off set. On the 1.7L plenum, the runners for cylinder 3 and 4 are angled so the runners can be directly even. So, what was I to do.

I took a spare set of runners I had and matched up two drivers side runners, marked my cuts and trimmed about 2.5 inches off both. Trimmed the tabs that hold the plug wires, sanded cleaned and painted. They don't fit perfect but all I have to do is get them on and then use hose clamps for the rest. They line up very close and look good.

Now since I finished my wiring harness last night, this weekend is plug and play time.

Here is a picture of the CHT I'm using. I drilled out an extra stock CHT I had and then used a silicon coated thermistor with some epoxy to install it. used some heat shrink to insulate the terminal ends just a little, soldered a shielded paired cable. Did a staggered crimp of some spade connections at the opposite end of the cable and bazinga. Don't know if I can install without removing tins until this weekend. I bought a cheap extended 13mm socket and notched it so I can use it for just that but I think I may have to remove3 tin so I don't cut the cable. I tested it at 40F, room temp 68F and 180F and it works great. I bought the thermistor on Amazon but you can find them most industrial electrical web sites. there are just so many sizes applications, blaa blaa blaa. Size and Ohms is what matters. The higher the Ohms the more discreet reading you will get but you have to compare that with reaction time to temp change. Again, bla bla bla.

Got the main mockup done and the Wire Harness built. Here are some picks of the intake with air filter housing.

You can see the End of my Connections for the IAT and the TPS.

Third pic shows where I pull the MAP vacuum from.

I like how it looks much cleaner than the 1.7 intake. Easier to access the TPS and all other sensors. Even the throttle cable is easier to get at with this setup.

Couldn't wait for the weekend so started my install of Megasquirt today. Here is apic of the old worn out 1.7 intake. It's really greasy and dirty. The second pic is where I put the Circular connector for my Wire Harness.

Before it got dark last night. I twisted one of the studs off while trying to install my injectors. Damn small little stud just came right off with no warning. So, I had to cut up another intake runner to replace. Now, I have no matching sets of intake runners if I need to go back.
guess I'm all in. I'll take pics later when the setup is complete.

Are you using modulated injector pulsing? It is my understanding that you give up modulated injector pulsing to use two control lines to the spark controller.

I am in the process of restoring FI to my 914. However there were no original FI parts so I am using a custom intake on top of the stands for the old carbs. Using injectors out of a F150 5 liter since the flow rate is similar to the original injectors. And a throttle body out of a GrandAM. I added a trigger wheel behind the impeller.

Don't know if the heat saved by using modulated injector pulsing is critical so I an going with it and using one spark control wire firing off the original coil and using the distributor. I did buy a coilpak and would like to use it but don't know if the heat will kill the injector coil.

IT LIVES.

I just finished starting it up after trouble shooting some minor fuel leaks. I only have one problem. It shows half the value of the tach.

Tach reads 2000 and the MS2 reads 1000

I know this has to do with cylinder numbers but I thought I changed them all to 4 where needed.

If anyone can send me an msq file so I can check my settings.

Another question, How do I get it to change the CLT range for high temps?

MegaSquirt uses PWM and it can also control spark as well.

Currently it is setup for fuel only but I also have the trigger wheel for behind the impeller and I've purchased the EDIS 4 coil pack and controller but haven't received it yet. Just started it up today for the first time and it seems to idle smooth but I need to tune it tomorrow.

UPDATE

I must have the worst luck in the world.

1. My first Innovate WO2 sensor was not working properly so I ditched that

2. I ordered an AEM analog WO2 sensor and guage for Next day but it came in two days. Unbelievable since I live in Los Angeles Area

3. I installed it and after 2 hours of perfect operation, the gauge goes out.

4. Called AEM for assistance and to send it back for them to see what is wrong and they transfer me to voice mail.

Just cant believe this

OK, I have quick update.

Been running for about a week with the new setup. I have found some pros and cons.

Pros
1. 2.0 Plenum and intake setup works great
2. BMW TPS is a perfect fit, operates great.
3. IAC works good in the AAR inlet location
4. Wiring and feedback noise is not a big issue

Cons
1. Had to re-work the IAC a little. To much air was getting by the pintle, I created a rubber boot to go inside the inlet so that the pintle is completely sealed when closed. This solved the problem of idle speed but now makes idle adjustment for temps very fine. If you change anything then you may need to change the idle steps. I may switch to the PWM setup if I can find a clean way to fab it up but most PWM idle control valves need extra hose lines and to be remotely mounted away from the intake plenum. For example, the 1985 BMW 325.

2. Injectors are not working well. I didn't source new injectors as the MegaSquirt Manual says you can adjust the PWM to use low impedance injectors. However, I am experiencing some high RPM stutters and a low MPG which according to the manual could be caused by the flyback circuit for PWM. I'm also experiencing some big fluctuations in AFR during load and steady load. So, I'm purchasing some replacement High Impedance injectors so I don'[t have to use the PWM settings. I found some BMW EV1 injectors that operate at 43.5 psig at 19lbs on e-bay, new.