Rick - I need your help, chassis twist Options

[TravisNeff]

A few years ago I got a new welder, I welded everthing in site... Needless to say I never understood shrinkage.

I installed an Engman kit and not only did I rosette weld the kit in, I fully stiched the whole thing. The end result, a stiff chassis - but a bent tub.

My door gaps are totally fuquered. My passenger rear fender was replaced and they must have welded the front, then the back and I have a weird bubble in my fender well. So not everthing is the same.. My passenger side gap has been messed up since I got the car, huge gap at the back of the door.

Here's my measurements, not to be reconciled with the factor charts too much, I am sure I am measuring from different dimensions than that. Anyways my measurements are from the same spots side to side

Targa opening D 62.7, P 63.5 CM
Latch to hinge D 110.5, P 110.5 CM
Diag mid latch plate to top of targa D 109.4, P 108.4
Front bulkead to targa, D 42.6, P 141.5


My guess is:
the passenger cowl fell in, so did the drivers side
The drivers targa fell in, passenger stayed staticd (lots of welding on the e-brake area)

Pics to follow....

[TravisNeff]

Here is a post from a while back with a similar situation.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...03941&st=60

[TravisNeff]

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[TravisNeff]

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[TravisNeff]

driver side rear

[TravisNeff]

So the front cowl has definately fell in. The rear targa bar on the drivers side, I think fell in too. I remember having to reaseal the rear window after my welding extravaganza

Seals and stricker plates are out of the doors. You would think there are more issues on the driver side with the tight gap, measurements prove it's the passenger side with the biggest problem

[rick 918-S]

Hey Travis, Just wanted to let you know I saw this post. I will comment on it later. I have to head out for awhile.

[jmill]

Racine, WI is a little closer than AZ but this is how he hooked me up.

[Dr Evil]

Dont show pics of Rick. He aint that pretty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[rick 918-S]

Dont show pics of Rick. He aint that pretty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Hey! I resemble that remark! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Anywho, The photos show the issue pretty well. If you were closer I would drive over and tweek it for you. But for now all I can suggest is to do your best and try to un-do the issue.

Normally You could tweek the chassis with a port-o-power or my turnbuckle tool like John's car. But after the chassis stiffeners are welded when you try to push the chassis it bends in places it most likely shouldn't. This only makes matters worse.

So what I would suggest is to figure out where you went wrong and back up to that point. This may require cutting through the stiffener to weaken the car enough to bend it back in place.

This tool works very well. If you want I'll put it in a cardboard tube and ship to you. You pay shipping both ways. It's heavy and shipping won't be cheap.




My second suggestion would be to see if there is a local body shop that has one and would either loan or rent it to you. You can move a door opening with very little effort.

[MoveQik]

Travis, I'll be over in 5. We'll have it straight by morning.

[TravisNeff]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) giddyup! lol

Travis, I'll be over in 5. We'll have it straight by morning.

[TravisNeff]

My plan is to cut through the stiffening kit at the cowl on both sides. push out the passenger side first, then driver side. next make a cut in the stiffening kit at the rear of the drivers door and push the drivers side targa bar back.

Sound like the right approach?

[rick 918-S]

My plan is to cut through the stiffening kit at the cowl on both sides. push out the passenger side first, then driver side. next make a cut in the stiffening kit at the rear of the drivers door and push the drivers side targa bar back.

Sound like the right approach?

That sounds reasonable. But you should be sure to put in a support through the door opening before you weld again.

Edit: also pull the catches off the "B" pillar so you car adjust the doors without any interference from the latch. Once your done welding and the doors swing free and line up you can replace the catch.

[TravisNeff]

So I will make my cuts here in the front

[rick 918-S]

Show me the stiffeners. I would likely cut the stiffeners not the stock inner longs.

[Eric_Shea]

That is the stiffener...

[TravisNeff]

LOL, you're looking right at them. i did my best to make it look like i never installed one - and yes, i would only cut through the stiffener and not through the longs.

[rick 918-S]

LOL, you're looking right at them. i did my best to make it look like i never installed one - and yes, i would only cut through the stiffener and not through the longs.

Oh, ya ok... Yes just through the stiffener. Be sure to remove the catches. Take your time. Measure twice then measure again. Make yourself a diagram to keep track of your progress. Brace the openings after you get them set before welding. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[TravisNeff]

Rear catches are out, front quarter windows & caps are out too. door panels tomorrow and let the cutting begin.

one last question, i will put the porta power at the base of the long and the rear firewall, the front, I presume that i will push on the panel flange at the upper hinge height (or should it be higher?)