Rick - I need your help, chassis twist |
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Rick - I need your help, chassis twist |
TravisNeff |
Mar 17 2012, 10:20 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
A few years ago I got a new welder, I welded everthing in site... Needless to say I never understood shrinkage.
I installed an Engman kit and not only did I rosette weld the kit in, I fully stiched the whole thing. The end result, a stiff chassis - but a bent tub. My door gaps are totally fuquered. My passenger rear fender was replaced and they must have welded the front, then the back and I have a weird bubble in my fender well. So not everthing is the same.. My passenger side gap has been messed up since I got the car, huge gap at the back of the door. Here's my measurements, not to be reconciled with the factor charts too much, I am sure I am measuring from different dimensions than that. Anyways my measurements are from the same spots side to side Targa opening D 62.7, P 63.5 CM Latch to hinge D 110.5, P 110.5 CM Diag mid latch plate to top of targa D 109.4, P 108.4 Front bulkead to targa, D 42.6, P 141.5 My guess is: the passenger cowl fell in, so did the drivers side The drivers targa fell in, passenger stayed staticd (lots of welding on the e-brake area) Pics to follow.... |
TravisNeff |
Mar 19 2012, 09:12 PM
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#26
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
here's how i was positioning the porta power
Attached thumbnail(s) |
TravisNeff |
Mar 19 2012, 09:14 PM
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#27
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
here's the gaps after the push, looking a lot better in the front. the rear has an even gap, but it's big. the passenger side quarter panel was replaced at some point and it was put in a little screwy - more on that later.
Attached thumbnail(s) |
TravisNeff |
Mar 19 2012, 09:15 PM
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#28
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
tomorrow i will push back the driver's side of the targa bar.
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76-914 |
Mar 19 2012, 09:54 PM
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#29
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,502 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
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rick 918-S |
Mar 19 2012, 10:26 PM
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#30
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,462 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Good idea with the stands. Be sure to check your targa bar to windsheild measurements. It would be easy to get ahead of yourself and end up wide at the top now. Good job so far! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
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TravisNeff |
Mar 21 2012, 09:31 PM
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#31
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
a couple days ago i pushed out the drivers front cowl a bit, mostly there..
today I cut the drivers side door opening at the rear of the door. A litle pushing to from the front wheelwell (right behind where the heater tubes are) up to the seat belt recoil mechanism - removing the seat belt mech first of course). anyways - this side is done!!! just need to weld it back up. Attached thumbnail(s) |
TravisNeff |
Mar 21 2012, 09:32 PM
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#32
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
and a before pic - just for comparison. the drivers side is no longer a door slammer!
Attached thumbnail(s) |
MoveQik |
Mar 22 2012, 08:01 AM
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#33
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What size wheels can I fit? Group: Members Posts: 4,645 Joined: 5-April 05 From: Scottsdale, AZ Member No.: 3,881 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Looks good Travis. We leave at 1:30 tomorrow so hurry up!
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TravisNeff |
Mar 22 2012, 08:42 AM
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#34
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I am trying, but I am not holding my breath
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rick 918-S |
Mar 22 2012, 09:05 AM
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#35
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,462 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Looking good Travis!
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sofi2t81 |
Mar 23 2012, 11:33 AM
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#36
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Member Group: Members Posts: 85 Joined: 6-December 10 From: Meine, Germany Member No.: 12,458 Region Association: Germany |
Good to follow that thread.
I have the problem that the PO messed up my passenger door gap when restoring the hell hole. He welded in the inner wheel house without supporting the longs, so my door gap is 1mm at the top. My plan is to but the car on jack stands. Push the door gap open like you did and then weld in the Engman kit with little heat as possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Do you think that would work, or do I have to cut the longs? (I don’t like that idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) ) Peter |
TravisNeff |
Mar 23 2012, 12:09 PM
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#37
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Dont cut your longs!!!! I just cut through the stiffening kit only which was already installed
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rick 918-S |
Mar 23 2012, 12:10 PM
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#38
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,462 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Good to follow that thread. I have the problem that the PO messed up my passenger door gap when restoring the hell hole. He welded in the inner wheel house without supporting the longs, so my door gap is 1mm at the top. My plan is to but the car on jack stands. Push the door gap open like you did and then weld in the Engman kit with little heat as possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Do you think that would work, or do I have to cut the longs? (I don’t like that idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) ) Peter If there was no chassis stiffening done yet you should be able to move the gap. Once there, be sure to brace it before welding. Don't forget to check the targa top opening as you go. |
TravisNeff |
Mar 23 2012, 12:43 PM
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#39
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Show us a pic of where you are at
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rick 918-S |
Mar 23 2012, 10:52 PM
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#40
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,462 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Show us a pic of where you are at (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif) |
jdlmodelt |
Jan 8 2013, 08:20 PM
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#41
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James D. Lane Group: Members Posts: 345 Joined: 30-November 12 From: Colorado Member No.: 15,210 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Good to follow that thread. I have the problem that the PO messed up my passenger door gap when restoring the hell hole. He welded in the inner wheel house without supporting the longs, so my door gap is 1mm at the top. My plan is to but the car on jack stands. Push the door gap open like you did and then weld in the Engman kit with little heat as possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Do you think that would work, or do I have to cut the longs? (I don’t like that idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) ) Peter If there was no chassis stiffening done yet you should be able to move the gap. Once there, be sure to brace it before welding. Don't forget to check the targa top opening as you go. Do I understand that to mean that if there was no chassis stiffening done then there is no cutting to do...just put the power jack in and straighten? |
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