2.0-2.3L type 4 engine, my journey to enlightenment, Or why the F can't I just drive my car! Options

[bohalrantipol]

I have been working on my 914 for almost 20 years now and have never actually posted info about it. I have read and re-read on this and various other versions of this forum for a long long time and figured it was time to step from the dark dankness of the internet shadows and actually contribute some (also I have questions that remain unanswered, so lots of selfish motivation still abounds).

And now I have to be honest and say I have neglected the poor thing for the past 6 years. It has been sitting patiently waiting for me to finally finish my PhD, get married, and medicate my boundless ADD, most of which has now been accomplished!

I am hoping with a little encouragement and advice I can stay on track and get this thing done over the next few months, barring any ridiculous life crap (which always comes along).

So what are my hopes and dreams?
-2260cc engine
-Megasquirt
-fun times

Thats it! I really feel like that should be easy right? HA!

[pt_700]

ah... another poor teener gets pushed aside while life gets in the way.

jackstands or drivable?

how about some pics so we can properly razz you for procrastination?

[bohalrantipol]

Items I have for engine build portion:
-Scat Rods (22mm small end, porsche 2.0 journal end, 5.325" Length)
-FAT 78mm crank
-96mm KB pistons and cylinders (RAT purchase)
-Webcams 86b camshaft
-New Chromoly Keepers/retainers
-New HD single springs
-New Chromoly pushrods (need to be cut to length)
-Swivel feet adjusters
-Aluminum solid spacers
-New bronze bushings and new SS valves
-new seals, bearings, blah blah blah.

[bohalrantipol]

[bohalrantipol]

ah... another poor teener gets pushed aside while life gets in the way.

jackstands or drivable?

how about some pics so we can properly razz you for procrastination?

Ask and thou shall receive, pictures of components added! The poor misses has been on its wheels, but not rolling for 7 years, with specific neglect for a solid 6, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif).

So to begin with the questions I would like to pose here:

1: I discovered that the bushing in the rods are really really tight, like .0001" tight. These are not press fit correct? If so what is the best solution for widening them? Master cylinder hone?

2: I am also wanting a compression ratio that will make me smile a little, but on pump gas, 10.5:1? 11:1? I was also planning on using ARP/Raceware head studs for this purpose, any preferences between the two (experience only here guys)? And would this necessitate thru-bolts as well?

Muchas Gracias to the 914 world

[bohalrantipol]

My nice clean block!!



With one small SNAFU



Luckily I found a use for the other half of the broken stud! A rudimentary old valve guide punch!

[brant]

[So to begin with the questions I would like to pose here:
2: I am also wanting a compression ratio that will make me smile a little, but on pump gas, 10.5:1? 11:1? I was also planning on using ARP/Raceware head studs for this purpose, any preferences between the two (experience only here guys)? And would this necessitate thru-bolts as well?

Muchas Gracias to the 914 world

air cooled motors don't like high compression and pump gas
they have more heat in their heads and tend to run a couple of points lower compression than their water cooled equivalent (especially type4's)

premium crap pump gas.... I would say about 8.7-ish
really over 9.0 you are going to need race gas or something better than the 91 octane sold around here.

11:1 forget about it.

oh and regarding the rod small ends.
they make a hone
you mount it into a vice and trun the rod end on it by hand
it hones out the bushing (soft) until you get a good fit

[TheCabinetmaker]

Take the rods, wrist pins and bushings to the machine shop. Did you dril and tap the galleys for plugs?

[Valy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[bohalrantipol]

A couple of shots pre-itsbeensittingforalongtime
these are shots immediately following me having completely stripped the car, added flairs (which I slightly regret doing now) and painted all in my parents garage (my mom loved all the smells that emanated from the garage!). Also these are scanned images sorry!

[bohalrantipol]

All good info! keep it coming please!

I am a bit of a "i am going to do everything myself" kind of guy...a bit of a control freak you might say. Can anyone see any reason why a master cylinder hone would not work? I suppose I could buy a new tool, that is always fun. I do plan on taking the block to the machine shop as I literally have done everything I can possible think of to get that f'ing stud out: Heated it, welded on nuts, slotted it and used a hammer driver, started to use my drill press on it broke two bits and before I decided to melt the thing down for scrap, I quit.
So maybe I should bite the bullet and get them to do the rods too, but I am a stubborn SOB.

Ah good ole ideal gas law. I had thought about the extra heat and was considering adding a front mount oil cooler and/or an ethanol mix/spray. Maybe even a better method of cooling ala' RATs DTM, or better yet the Orange adapto corsair setup to combat the extra heat. You really think 8.5-9 is the tops? seems really low to me...

But lets say I can manage the heat, at what point do I need to worry about different head bolts/thru-bolts?

[bohalrantipol]

By the way, your car is amazing brant! Really, really good work.

[brant]

I'm sure there are different opinions
and I am not an expert
so probably with a raby dtm or other attention to detail higher must be possible.

but my 2 related experiences were:
the factory "euro" high compression pistons were around 8.5:1
(the US motors were in the 7.5 to 8.0 range for various years)

also I ran 3 race motors on AV gas (it has its own short comings) but we used to race a motor with about 9.3 that didn't like pump gas

so I may have been a bit on the safe side... but for a street motor that you want to last I don't think you can go too high...
the oil cooling is great.. but may not effect head temperatures

thanks for the compliments.. it was really fun to build and we did nearly every fab thing ourselves (including the body work)

brant

[TheCabinetmaker]

Brants car is just as nice as it looks in the pics, even better.

[bohalrantipol]

I am hoping that with the later closing of the 86b camshaft, that my dynamic compression will be low enough to justify a higher static ratio. What cam where you running when you had those problems?

[brant]

I don't remember now exactly
It was a full race webcam with carbs, but I don't remember the grind
it was over a 10 year period with 3 different builds/cams

I know its apples/oranges... but my first 6 race motor was a stock 67S and rated at 9.8:1 factory compression ratio. It didn't like pump gas either and we always ended up running 98 race gas in it.. but thats still apples and oranges with different profiles and variables.

[unpolire]

I do plan on taking the block to the machine shop as I literally have done everything I can possible think of to get that f'ing stud out: Heated it, welded on nuts, slotted it and used a hammer driver, started to use my drill press on it broke two bits and before I decided to melt the thing down for scrap, I quit.

I have several Italian cars with alloy blocks and every once in a while, a steel stud breaks off in a block that is too valuable or impossible to replace. Some of the best machinists in the country directed me to a company that uses high-tech vibration frequencies to actually disintegrate the steel stud without affecting the alloy block, leaving the stud hole threads perfect. It was local to me in CA, and this was years ago, before widespread Internet, but I'll bet the process (patented I think) is more widely available now. Do a search on Google for the process.

[bohalrantipol]

I am hoping the machine shop will look upon the task as routine. How much did you pay for this disintegration ray service? Sounds very intriguing, you think the tooling is expensive? I have recently seen a system that uses a high frequency induction technique to heat only a steel nut up....is that what you are talking about?

[Jake Raby]

Call Jerry's broken drill and tap in Orange County Ca.. They can remove it without issue.

[ChrisFoley]

1: I discovered that the bushing in the rods are really really tight, like .0001" tight. These are not press fit correct? If so what is the best solution for widening them? Master cylinder hone?

They should be tight - less than a thousandth. Not a press fit, but a tight hand fit.
They should be honed perfectly square and straight, that's why engine shops have a special machine for rods.
You could do it with a master cylinder hone but since the rod bushing is short and open at both ends it would be hard to control in a crosshatch pattern.

A good EDM machine shop could remove that broken stud.