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> broken exhaust stud update, where do I buy a stepped exhaust stud ?
brant
post May 15 2012, 10:29 AM
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I'm trying to change out a snapped off 4cylinder exhaust stud
its snapped off pretty short... between the head and the push rod tubes... nothing sticking out.

I can only get one nut on, not two

I've tried heat, pliers, etc...
I have a set of metric stud extractors.. but they are too big of diameter to fit on the stud. (the stud is pretty close to the side of the head)

I'm going to try and borrow a welder tonight and weld a nut on
does anyone know of any other trick or tool that would work in such a tight location?


brant
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stugray
post May 15 2012, 10:36 AM
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Brant,

I have a MIG welder and a set of bolt extractors.
Jim has a TIG welder (what you should use), but it is in Aurora.

Is the head still on the engine? If not bring it by.

Stu
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brant
post May 15 2012, 10:59 AM
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it is on the engine
but your close enough, I could still bring it by
It would take 30 seconds to zap it


I'll knock on my neighbors door and see if he has a stick welder tonight
If not I'll get some help to throw the motor into my truck and bug you some night this week.

I think I still have your phone number... I would call first
thanks for the offer.
brant
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worn
post May 15 2012, 11:54 AM
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QUOTE(brant @ May 15 2012, 08:29 AM) *

I'm trying to change out a snapped off 4cylinder exhaust stud
its snapped off pretty short... between the head and the push rod tubes... nothing sticking out.

I can only get one nut on, not two

I've tried heat, pliers, etc...
I have a set of metric stud extractors.. but they are too big of diameter to fit on the stud. (the stud is pretty close to the side of the head)

I'm going to try and borrow a welder tonight and weld a nut on
does anyone know of any other trick or tool that would work in such a tight location?


brant


You are fighting electrolytic bonding between the steel stud and the aluminum head. If it is bad, and sounds like it is, the best weapon is heat. Problem is it gets pretty scary. The old guys who say to get out the acetylene and heat the nut or bolt to glowing red know what they are talking about. BUT with gas and oil it is DANGEROUS. One good thing is you can work up to it by heating to the limit of your comfort zone and then trying the stud - just don't break it. If it seems like it won't move, try more heat. Also after heating, spraying with penetrating oil works well because it soaks into the hot joint better. Again DISCRETION, because what works is also at the oil flash point. An advantage is that the aluminum carries heat very fast so it is fairly hard to damage the aluminum by heating the stud. There are electric stud heaters too, but most people can't afford them.

Welding blankets from harbor Freight, a full bucket of water in case your hand gets hot, and fire extinguishers.

If all this sounds like pyromania, it isn't meant to be, but it has worked for me.
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worn
post May 15 2012, 12:00 PM
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[quote name='worn' date='May 15 2012, 09:54 AM' post='1675890']
[quote name='brant' post='1675822' date='May 15 2012, 08:29 AM']
I'm trying to change out a snapped off 4cylinder exhaust stud
its snapped off pretty short... between the head and the push rod tubes... nothing sticking out.

I can only get one nut on, not two

I've tried heat, pliers, etc...
I have a set of metric stud extractors.. but they are too big of diameter to fit on the stud. (the stud is pretty close to the side of the head)

I'm going to try and borrow a welder tonight and weld a nut on
does anyone know of any other trick or tool that would work in such a tight location?


brant
[/quote]

In re reading it sounds like your problem is more about grabbing the stud. I had thought at first it was an issue of it breaking off during turning so it was stuck on.

This sounds stupid, but I would have thought that a big - @ss vise grip would lock on with a torque powerful enough to break the stud. Guess not. Your stud extractor if cam action might work if you added a small bolt parallel to the stud to take up space. Good luck. I have a small jar that I put the victory extractions in - drilled out, or some other heroics. Not that full I am afraid, but fond memories to build courage.
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KaptKaos
post May 15 2012, 12:08 PM
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I used something like this when I had a similar issue:

http://www.toolup.com/proto_j69x00_10-pc-b...ELAID=780491787
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r_towle
post May 15 2012, 06:08 PM
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Weld the nut on and be prepared to stick a socket on it as fast as you can before it cools down...
If you cant get it after that short amount of heat from the mig gun, use a tig or torch to get it cherry hot...

Go in and out, try both directions gently...it will eventually give up.

If not, borrow an exhaust stub pipe, bolt it down to the other stud and rung a drill through the side that is broken to start drilling it out.
If you use bushings around the bit to keep it centered...and youa re very carefull, you can get the job done.

Remember the hole has a bottom to it and you dont want to go to far or you will blow a hole in the head...

I have done more than a few on my back with a hand drill...just take your time, use a jig if you can...even a piece of aluminum or steel with the right size hole it it will work to help you keep it straight.


rich
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AZ914
post May 15 2012, 07:31 PM
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SORRY!
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brant
post May 15 2012, 10:26 PM
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Jason..

don't be
I'm going to take a crack at it tomorrow
don't sweat it...

all is fine.
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TROJANMAN
post May 15 2012, 10:38 PM
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I think GINT wrote a whole thread about this once.

I vaguely remember a car ramp flying through the air as he worked on it.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=49091&hl=
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infraredcalvin
post May 15 2012, 10:47 PM
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How about this,I used this to remove all but one stud on my 930.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._WTD179_pg5.htm

Then had to buy this to get the last one that i broke off. Similar to the trick described above using the exhaust as a guide.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...%2D%39%38%29%09

Kind of a pain, and expensive, while engine was still in the car, but cheaper than a tow and shop to fix.
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914werke
post May 16 2012, 09:57 AM
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This can help in the extream case where drilling it out is necessary


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stugray
post May 17 2012, 09:30 AM
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Another thing I just remembered.

I have a resistance welder.
It is pretty much just a transformer about the size of a big lunch box and weighs about 100 lbs.

It can output hundreds or thousands of amps at something like 1 volt.

It can heat steel to glowing red hot in a few seconds.

We could try that too.
Safer than a torch...

Stu
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bandjoey
post May 17 2012, 11:38 AM
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Pocket torch and JB weld the nut on. Wack it with a punch? Something with high speed vibration to break the bond. Hammer drill with a bolt in the chuck?
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brant
post May 24 2012, 02:47 PM
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hey thanks guys!
I got it out last night with the welder...


it looks like the offending stud was a stepped one.

8x 1.25 on one end
9 x 1.25 on the other end


Where is a good source to buy a stepped stud?
I didn't see them on pelican
I went to the local import shop and struck out.

anyone have a good source for a stock length stepped stud?


brant
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MLedesma
post May 24 2012, 04:25 PM
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Brant,

I got some a while ago from belmetric.com

Matt
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andys
post May 24 2012, 04:48 PM
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Try your local drit bike shop. Many two-strokes use stepped studs, especially for the cylinder head stud.

Andys
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aharder
post May 24 2012, 05:03 PM
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QUOTE(MLedesma @ May 24 2012, 05:25 PM) *

Brant,

I got some a while ago from belmetric.com

Matt

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Belmetric I used S8X10X38 - Metric Step Stud when mine broke.
Had to double up the washers.
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underthetire
post May 24 2012, 06:28 PM
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Mcmaster car
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stugray
post May 24 2012, 10:27 PM
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Brant,

I have a Helicoil M10x1.5 metric thread repair kit.
I have been hauling it around for ~20 years...

I seem to recall that when a stepped stud pulled out, I had to replace the threads in the head with that. Then another stepped stud.
If it helps at all?

Last I checked AutoAtlanta actually carried the stepped studs.

Stu
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