Floor Pan Issues, Patch or Total replacement of Floor Pans? Options

[Vysoc]

Hello World,

I am finally in a position as soon as the Rotisserie is ready to throw this thing on and start gaining some momentum. I have found both sides replacement panels and have them. I have some photo's of the carnage and am seeking opinions.
My heap has alot of rust along the center tunnel which I do not think I have seen in many other cars but am probably wrong.
This car also has had several areas on the passenger side where they welded in angled steel and it pull the floor up actually turning the cross brace.

Please give your opinions......... one of the worst areas is behind the pedals which has some big rust damage, my replacement piece does not go that far. Are there other pieces available that reach all the way up there?

I also have an Engman kit that will be welded into the inside, what should the timing be on putting that in?

Set and fix floor pans first then put Engman kit in?

The car will also have braces mounted from bottom door hinge to door and from top door hinge to safety belt bolt hole on the side of the roll bar.

Thank you for your opinions and advice in advance.

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

The floor looks pretty good in most areas.
Buy the replacement panels and cut sections to patch the bad spots.
Use only as much new metal as you need for a good repair.
I can see that some areas of the tunnel sides are rotted away. If the inner rockers need similar repair its probably better to replace the entire floor.

[Vysoc]

quote name='Racer Chris' date='May 25 2012, 05:45 PM' post='1682067']
The floor looks pretty good in most areas.
Buy the replacement panels and cut sections to patch the bad spots.
Use only as much new metal as you need for a good repair.
I can see that some areas of the tunnel sides are rotted away. If the inner rockers need similar repair its probably better to replace the entire floor.
[/quote]


Thanks for your input Chris your stainless steel fuel lines will soon be running down that nasty looking tunnel, but it will be in much better shape by then.

Thank you for your opinion, can anyone else weigh in on this case?

Thanks,

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

[dakotaewing]

Strip the entire area to clean bare metal. You have just started the process. There are many opinions regarding rust prevention and paint treatments - decide which is best for you. Por - 15, Zero Rust, and Epoxy primer are the first things that come to mind. Chris was spot on on the accessment of replacement. If the edges of your floor are solid, then use patches for repairs. You will definatlly want a flapper wheel for your grinder on this project, as it does some things much better than a grinding wheel - So, how are your welding skills? Here is how far I went on my engine compartment...

[Vysoc]

Dakotaewing,

Nice engine area that looks like about 10 hours of work at least.

I will invest in several Flapper Wheels as I have lots of work to do before I have lots of work to do. Once I get everything tightened down (door braces) I can put it on the rotisserie and then really access what can be cut out and what can be welded in, having a good look from the underside should help as well.

This is going to be a long hot summer in the garage.

Thanks for your comments,

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

[914werke]

The tunnel looks sketchy, once youve removed the floor you'll probably find more to be concerned with. You may may be time ahead replacing it than Patching it up.
OH! it just so happens I have a complete un-rusted tunnel FS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

Nice engine area that looks like about 10 hours of work at least.

I bet it was a lot more than that.
Lots of corners, sharp edges and tight spots to deal with.

My personal opinion is that any intact factory surface coatings (ie primer & paint) can remain as a substrate for fresh coatings,
and only repair areas and failed coatings need to be stripped to clean metal.

[Vysoc]

rdauenhauer,

PM sent on center tunnel.

Thanks,

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

[seanery]

DAMN, Thom!!!! that's insane, and awesome!!! and insane!!! =)

[FourBlades]

It is common for the tunnel to rust like that. It is probably very rusty inside. While you have the tunnel out make sure you reinforce your clutch tube well at the end near the pedals. They like to break off there.

If you are going to put it on a rotisserie then I would replace the whole floor pans.

If you turn it completely upside down then it is not too hard to do that.

I would buy 3 blair rotobroach bits to drill out the spot welds. 1/4 and 5/16 size work well. You can find them on amazon.com. Those things are the best in my opinion. Drill slowly with lots of pressure and use cutting oil.

No one makes the area under the pedals yet. Either patch yours or get a piece from someone sawzalling a wreck.

Do your engman kit last, and let it cool frequently while welding it in. I went nuts seam welding mine all the way around and may have shrunk my passenger side so the door gaps are too small.

Have fun, your car does not look too bad.

John