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> Picked this up for the kids..., For metal bump learning.
Dave Cawdrey
post May 12 2003, 08:16 PM
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Could someone "learn" me about these different dollies/hammers?
Not bad, for 20 bucks, huh?


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krk
post May 12 2003, 08:27 PM
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Dude,

That's a great 20 bucks!

For get the individual function. Grab a book that covers the basics. There's like.. 3 or 4 basics -- the various hammers and dollies let you use the basics in odd situations.

Pounding metal thins and streches it. Heating and hammering (and cold rags) can shrink it. Picks can bring up low areas. Files take down high spots.

I'll rummage while people who are up on the game post real high-quality answers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

kim.
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Aaron Cox
post May 12 2003, 08:29 PM
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looks like his kids are gonna be doin some 914 bodywork? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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airsix
post May 12 2003, 11:52 PM
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They'll be able to do all sorts of things with them tools if they work at it. That hammer/dolly set and lot of block sanding is how I got 245's on 16x8's in the back. (Of course, in hindsight I sure wish I'd had one of John Kelly's shrinking disks to speed up the process).

-Ben M.


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airsix
post May 12 2003, 11:54 PM
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Here's an overhead shot.

-Ben M.


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John Kelly
post May 13 2003, 07:45 AM
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Hi Korijo,

You'll find those cheap sets to be alright to start with, but hammers and dollys that are forged are better for long term serious work. Hammers with broader faces are easier to use. When you get ready to start the kids hammering, let me know, and I'll come down and give a few pointers if you like.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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Dave Cawdrey
post May 13 2003, 02:06 PM
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John or anyone,

Could you explain a bit on the shrink disk? Bump, then shrink, bump more, then shrink more? Trying to understand...

John, how long is the list for a disk?
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John Kelly
post May 13 2003, 02:51 PM
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You bump out with a dolly when an area is low to get the shape back close to where it supposed to be. Then the finer aspects of off-dolly work, and on-dolly work come in to play. Sometimes you have to bump again when necessary to get the metal up where it needs to be. Some stretching takes place during the damage as well as the process of getting the metal straight again. That is where the shrinking disc comes in. There is a little bit more on the subject here:

http://www.type2.com/library/body/wlsh.htm

I usually have a few discs made up. Right now I would have to make one. I could do that tomorrow if you want one. Just email: ghiafab@msn.com

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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need4speed
post May 13 2003, 02:52 PM
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John Kelly's name is famous here too?
Heh.

I just started thinking about those shrinking disks as I read the first two or three posts in this thread; wuz gonna say something. . .

After an unfortunate accident with my Ghia in my garage last week, I'm looking at learning a little metal bumping myself. (fell off the jackstands when I was trying to finesse the engine out).

So Kojiro - where did you pick up the hammer and dolly set?

one more thing - there's supposedly an excellent book out there called "The Key to Metal Bumping" - that's the one you want to read first. (it's on my Birthday Present list).
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John Kelly
post May 13 2003, 04:14 PM
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famous? ... hardly. I've just found a more tolerant audience here for my ideas of modifying cars. Sorry to hear about your garage accident, evidently you weren't hurt though. What kind of damage did you do to your Ghia? I've always been so scared of having that happen that I use lots of blocks as well as jack stands for a little extra support. Nice avatar!

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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John Kelly
post May 13 2003, 05:15 PM
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Forgot to mention on the hammer and dolly set... check the surfaces of all of them. You will probably have to file and sand them to remove high spots. Even expensive dollys sometimes need work.

Which dolly you choose to use can be dictated by a few things...the shape of the panel, whether or not you want to stretch small areas, in which case you would choose a dolly with a higher crown than the panel. When smoothing you want the dolly shape to match the panel. Sometimes limited access to the backside will make the decision of which dolly to use for you.

For hammer choices, I like a slight crown for stretching and smoothing, and a higher crown for stretching up small areas.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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Brad Roberts
post May 13 2003, 05:22 PM
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John,

quick question for you:

In one of your pics.. I see you using a device I once bought back several years ago. I forget the name.. but I could use it to cut like a plasma cutter and torch weld like TIG. I could also weld aluminum with it. I lost it during the move from TX to Ca. You are holding it and using it to weld one of the Ghia flares. Can you give me the name of it ?? I would like to buy a new one. It worked pretty damn good once you figured out all the different heat ranges and tips.


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Brad Roberts
post May 13 2003, 05:23 PM
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This one:

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need4speed
post May 13 2003, 05:29 PM
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QUOTE(John Kelly @ May 13 2003, 02:14 PM)
famous? ... hardly. I've just found a more tolerant audience here for my ideas of modifying cars. . . .

well, you weren't the first, and you probably won't be the last. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

QUOTE
What kind of damage did you do to your Ghia?  


It settled-off sideways into a shelving unit in my garage, and dinged the fender just behind the driver's headlight. Area about 4x8 inches, about 2 inches deep, with a bit of a crease in the bottom of the dish.

I kind of wish I was under it so I could have seen what was going on with the jackstands and stopped jerking the engine around so much. I still don't know what it was hung up on, but I eventually wiggled it out of there.

I assume I can just pull the headlight and bucket out, and bump it from the inside. I hope the insurance covers the paint.

- - -
Nothing compared to my wife's friend, who stopped by the house last night in her 84 Camaro. Her hood came unlatched on the freeway and flew back, bent it back like a potato chip. I actually used a ball-peen hammer, and a section of railroad track as a makeshift dolly last night to bump the hood-frame back into shape so it could close. Result wasn't pretty, but it was functional.
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Dave Cawdrey
post May 13 2003, 05:29 PM
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QUOTE(need4speed @ May 13 2003, 12:52 PM)
So Kojiro - where did you pick up the hammer and dolly set?

one more thing - there's supposedly an excellent book out there called "The Key to Metal Bumping" - that's the one you want to read first. (it's on my Birthday Present list).

Got the kit from Eastwood. The book is available there, too.
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jonwatts
post May 13 2003, 05:32 PM
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I thought John preferred Oxy Acetalyne (butchered spelling).


I currently have my car up on 3 jackstands. I put 4 jackstands under the car but it only comes to rest on 3 of them. I'm a little afraid to look into whether it's the jackstands, the floor, or (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) the chassis.
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Brad Roberts
post May 13 2003, 05:34 PM
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Its probably your floor.

Its does use Oxy JohnW. Its allows you to use Oxy for just about everything.


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Mueller
post May 13 2003, 05:39 PM
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The original Cobras are Oxy/Ace. welded (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

3 points of contact is easier to achieve and more accurate than 4 for the most part.
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John Kelly
post May 13 2003, 09:12 PM
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Hi Brad,

The torch goes by the name Dillon, or Henrob.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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Brad Roberts
post May 13 2003, 10:23 PM
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Henrob.. that was it.

Do you like it ?? do you still use it ??


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