Could someone "learn" me about these different dollies/hammers?
Not bad, for 20 bucks, huh?

Dude,

That's a great 20 bucks!

For get the individual function. Grab a book that covers the basics. There's like.. 3 or 4 basics -- the various hammers and dollies let you use the basics in odd situations.

Pounding metal thins and streches it. Heating and hammering (and cold rags) can shrink it. Picks can bring up low areas. Files take down high spots.

I'll rummage while people who are up on the game post real high-quality answers

kim.

looks like his kids are gonna be doin some 914 bodywork?

They'll be able to do all sorts of things with them tools if they work at it. That hammer/dolly set and lot of block sanding is how I got 245's on 16x8's in the back. (Of course, in hindsight I sure wish I'd had one of John Kelly's shrinking disks to speed up the process).

-Ben M.

Here's an overhead shot.

-Ben M.

Hi Korijo,

You'll find those cheap sets to be alright to start with, but hammers and dollys that are forged are better for long term serious work. Hammers with broader faces are easier to use. When you get ready to start the kids hammering, let me know, and I'll come down and give a few pointers if you like.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

John or anyone,

Could you explain a bit on the shrink disk? Bump, then shrink, bump more, then shrink more? Trying to understand...

John, how long is the list for a disk?

You bump out with a dolly when an area is low to get the shape back close to where it supposed to be. Then the finer aspects of off-dolly work, and on-dolly work come in to play. Sometimes you have to bump again when necessary to get the metal up where it needs to be. Some stretching takes place during the damage as well as the process of getting the metal straight again. That is where the shrinking disc comes in. There is a little bit more on the subject here:

http://www.type2.com/library/body/wlsh.htm

I usually have a few discs made up. Right now I would have to make one. I could do that tomorrow if you want one. Just email: ghiafab@msn.com

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

John Kelly's name is famous here too?
Heh.

I just started thinking about those shrinking disks as I read the first two or three posts in this thread; wuz gonna say something. . .

After an unfortunate accident with my Ghia in my garage last week, I'm looking at learning a little metal bumping myself. (fell off the jackstands when I was trying to finesse the engine out).

So Kojiro - where did you pick up the hammer and dolly set?

one more thing - there's supposedly an excellent book out there called "The Key to Metal Bumping" - that's the one you want to read first. (it's on my Birthday Present list).

famous? ... hardly. I've just found a more tolerant audience here for my ideas of modifying cars. Sorry to hear about your garage accident, evidently you weren't hurt though. What kind of damage did you do to your Ghia? I've always been so scared of having that happen that I use lots of blocks as well as jack stands for a little extra support. Nice avatar!

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

Forgot to mention on the hammer and dolly set... check the surfaces of all of them. You will probably have to file and sand them to remove high spots. Even expensive dollys sometimes need work.

Which dolly you choose to use can be dictated by a few things...the shape of the panel, whether or not you want to stretch small areas, in which case you would choose a dolly with a higher crown than the panel. When smoothing you want the dolly shape to match the panel. Sometimes limited access to the backside will make the decision of which dolly to use for you.

For hammer choices, I like a slight crown for stretching and smoothing, and a higher crown for stretching up small areas.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

John,

quick question for you:

In one of your pics.. I see you using a device I once bought back several years ago. I forget the name.. but I could use it to cut like a plasma cutter and torch weld like TIG. I could also weld aluminum with it. I lost it during the move from TX to Ca. You are holding it and using it to weld one of the Ghia flares. Can you give me the name of it ?? I would like to buy a new one. It worked pretty damn good once you figured out all the different heat ranges and tips.


B

This one:

B

well, you weren't the first, and you probably won't be the last.



It settled-off sideways into a shelving unit in my garage, and dinged the fender just behind the driver's headlight. Area about 4x8 inches, about 2 inches deep, with a bit of a crease in the bottom of the dish.

I kind of wish I was under it so I could have seen what was going on with the jackstands and stopped jerking the engine around so much. I still don't know what it was hung up on, but I eventually wiggled it out of there.

I assume I can just pull the headlight and bucket out, and bump it from the inside. I hope the insurance covers the paint.

- - -
Nothing compared to my wife's friend, who stopped by the house last night in her 84 Camaro. Her hood came unlatched on the freeway and flew back, bent it back like a potato chip. I actually used a ball-peen hammer, and a section of railroad track as a makeshift dolly last night to bump the hood-frame back into shape so it could close. Result wasn't pretty, but it was functional.

Got the kit from Eastwood. The book is available there, too.

I thought John preferred Oxy Acetalyne (butchered spelling).


I currently have my car up on 3 jackstands. I put 4 jackstands under the car but it only comes to rest on 3 of them. I'm a little afraid to look into whether it's the jackstands, the floor, or the chassis.

Its probably your floor.

Its does use Oxy JohnW. Its allows you to use Oxy for just about everything.


B

The original Cobras are Oxy/Ace. welded

3 points of contact is easier to achieve and more accurate than 4 for the most part.

Hi Brad,

The torch goes by the name Dillon, or Henrob.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

Henrob.. that was it.

Do you like it ?? do you still use it ??


B

Hi Brad,

I use my Victor Jr. most of the time. I don't weld anything more exotic than steel, so I have not really had a need for the Henrob. I keep it as a backup. I've heard of guys doing all sorts of unbelievable stuff with the Henrob, but for my work it was a bit pricey. I need to get a new small tip for mine. I think it is worn out from cleaning it with wrong type tip cleaner. Maybe then I'll start using it again.
The victor will weld aluminum too. Someday I think I will pick up a Meco midget torch from Kent White. Nice and light weight.

By the way, that picture was from when I was making my rear Ghia flares from 4 pieces of metal. Got it down to 2 pieces now...less welding.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

Exactly how does one weld aluminum with oxy/acetelene? I thought it had to be welded in an oxygen-free environment (like Metal-Inert-Gas) -
Can one weld Stainless Steel too?

You use a special flux and welding goggle lense for gas welding aluminum. A lot of people prefer it to tig for car bodys because the weld zone stays softer making metal finishing easier. I think you can weld stainless with oxy-acetylene but I've never done it. Check out Kent White's site for good welding information:

www.tinmantech.com

John www.ghiaspecialties.com