Cant get accelerator cable to install! SUCCESS!, Seems to hit a blockage 11 inches in Options

[rnellums]

I have installed 5-6 accelerator cables previously and most are in and out in a snap. Not so with this car!

I disconnect the accelerator cable as usual from the front and begin to pull it back. everything was going well until right before it exits the firewall where it hits a hard snag. It jammed in tight and i had to use a coat hanger as a drift to push it back forward again.

I tried snaking it back and forth for 45 minutes with it hitting the snag in the same spot every time. Then I tried filing down the shank. Still snagged at the same spot. Finally, I pushed it all the way forward again and cut the shank off. SO now the old cable is out.

Of course when I go to install the new cable it jams up in the same place. I used a longer coat hanger to slide back and forth through the tunnel and I cant seem to find anywhere it really hits hard (even to the point of running the coat hanger all the way to the front of the accelerator tube.

My question is, how the hell do I git this done? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

My current thoughts are to go to the hardware store and buy a steel rod the same diameter as the shank and try pushing that through.

Help please!

Thanks,
-Ross

[bigkensteele]

Have you taken off the access panel in the back and looked inside the tunnel with a mirror? You should be able to see whatever is obstructing it.

[rnellums]

I have checked all three access panels and removed the shifter. The accelerator cable tube is a continuous tube running from the firewall untill about 6 inches forward of the shifter. At the forward end there is no visible obstruction. I can't really tell about further back.

What I could do that I havent done yet is check the tube itself at 11 inches from the firewall to see it if is damaged somehow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[HarveyH]

I believe it's been reported that sometimes the crimping of the cable end extrudes to the sides too much and needs to be ground down just a tiny bit to avoid binding as the cable end goes through the curves of the tube.



Harvey

[chrispy]

You might try putting a small bend on the coat hanger, hooking it up to an electrical drill, add lots of WD40 and reem out the tube.
Good luck, chris

[tomeric914]

The last cable install I did, the threaded end was slightly bent. Enough so that it would get caught in the slight bend of the tube. I straightened it out and it went in with no problem.

[dangrouche]

i had a similar problem and did the coat hanger and WD-40. Simply "twirl" or rotate clockwise while pushing forward. you will be pushing on the cable right where the cable enters the tube at the back panel wall. once the threaded end of the cable gets past that slight obstruction through the twirling process, it should slide right in. think of the new cable as a drill and you are rotating the new cable as the drill bit. report how this goes

[pilothyer]

The last itme I did this I found that the last bend in the tube was causing a problem. When we finally pulled the old cable through (which took a lot of pull) we found that the bend had become smaller somehow. We finally decided to trim off about 1/4 inch off the threaded end and it pushed through the tube without any problems. We also found that the trimming didn't affect the overall length of the cable and that the cable attached to the front end with no problem. I think it is something to do with the way the new cables are made.

[Jeffs9146]

I had a very similar problem and it turned out that when the factory installed the tube where they welded it in they left a bunch of pointy weld slag inside the tube and the cable would hang up and catch on it! I ended up mesuring the length until the cable stopped and grinding out the corisponding distance of the tube inside the center tunnel! Works great once I got the blockage out!

[EdwardBlume]

Happened to my old race car. Same way. From the accelerator side of the tube and down hill, spray brake cleaner into the tube. Rust will come out. Was the car jacked at the center tunnel? See if any on the tube is bent. Straighten as needed. Flush 3-4 times.

Good luck!

[lotus_65]

i hope it's as easy as those other guys... but it isn't always. : (

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=throttle+cable

[rnellums]

I believe it's been reported that sometimes the crimping of the cable end extrudes to the sides too much and needs to be ground down just a tiny bit to avoid binding as the cable end goes through the curves of the tube.



Harvey

I have checked the size and the crimps do not protrude as far as the threads, so I'm afrad its a no-go there.

You might try putting a small bend on the coat hanger, hooking it up to an electrical drill, add lots of WD40 and reem out the tube.
Good luck, chris

I'll try this, but It will be difficult to get my drill in there.

i had a similar problem and did the coat hanger and WD-40. Simply "twirl" or rotate clockwise while pushing forward. you will be pushing on the cable right where the cable enters the tube at the back panel wall. once the threaded end of the cable gets past that slight obstruction through the twirling process, it should slide right in. think of the new cable as a drill and you are rotating the new cable as the drill bit. report how this goes

I'll also try this, but what do I don if I get it jammed in there deep and then it sticks?

The last itme I did this I found that the last bend in the tube was causing a problem. When we finally pulled the old cable through (which took a lot of pull) we found that the bend had become smaller somehow. We finally decided to trim off about 1/4 inch off the threaded end and it pushed through the tube without any problems. We also found that the trimming didn't affect the overall length of the cable and that the cable attached to the front end with no problem. I think it is something to do with the way the new cables are made.

Cutting 1/4 inch off seems like a good idea.

I had a very similar problem and it turned out that when the factory installed the tube where they welded it in they left a bunch of pointy weld slag inside the tube and the cable would hang up and catch on it! I ended up mesuring the length until the cable stopped and grinding out the corisponding distance of the tube inside the center tunnel! Works great once I got the blockage out!

what did you use to grind?

Happened to my old race car. Same way. From the accelerator side of the tube and down hill, spray brake cleaner into the tube. Rust will come out. Was the car jacked at the center tunnel? See if any on the tube is bent. Straighten as needed. Flush 3-4 times.

Good luck!

i hope it's as easy as those other guys... but it isn't always. : (

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=throttle+cable

I hope to god mine doesn't end up like yours! What a pain!



So, My plan of attack:

Look inside the tube for any out of place bends in the accel. cable tube. If there are any, correct and check fit.

ream the tube with WD-40 and a coat hanger on a drill.

cut 1/4 inch off the threads of the cable.

check fit.

ream again with sturdier rod

Push through with coat hanger

If no go,

part the car out... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)



just kidding.

[SLITS]

My problem from 2009

Oh Pile of Feces

[Jeffs9146]

what did you use to grind?

I used an air grinder with a sharp point metal grinding tip! It was hard to get to the spot but after messing around to find the right angle I was able to grind out about 1/2" of the section of the bottom of the tube where the clog was. Then I had to have someone push the cable in while I guided it past the hole!

[TheCabinetmaker]

Just had the same problem with a clutch cable. It turned out that the tube was slightly bent in the engine bay where it protrudes from the fire wall. Straightened the tube a little (made it the same angle as a few other cars I looked at) and it slid right in. The threaded end was hitting the inside radius of the bend in the tube.

[rnellums]

Just had the same problem with a clutch cable. It turned out that the tube was slightly bent in the engine bay where it protrudes from the fire wall. Straightened the tube a little (made it the same angle as a few other cars I looked at) and it slid right in. The threaded end was hitting the inside radius of the bend in the tube.

I'll check that, but it doesn't get stuck until about 11 inches into the tube.

[toolguy]

This may be something to try as a last shot but I'd think I'd try getting a steel ball bearing the size of the inside of the tube with and easy fit., , ,

weld the ball to the end of say an 1/8 steel rod, and run the ball into the obstruction with the thought it will bend the tube back to a rounder shape. . sort of like the paintless dent guys do. . massage the tube to get it back into shape. . . whats the worse that could happen, Have to make a new tube. . . be glad it's not the clutch tube. . . the accelerator doesn't have the physical stress. .

[ThePaintedMan]

Forgive me if this has already been said... But if the obstruction is due to bonding, rather than mechanical friction, could a solvent be injected into the tube to help get things going? Perhaps start off with a good dousing of brake cleaner to eat up any adhesive, oil, dirt, etc. Leave it soak for some time, then blow the tube out. Then follow up with PB Blaster or the like?

[rnellums]

Success! I looked at the tubes and there was a slight bend visible through the rear access panel. I bent it straight as best I could. then I cut 1/4 inch off the shank and sprayed the tube down with WD-40. IT still caught up at the same spot, but I could tell It wasn't as tight. A little poke with the coat hanger and we are golden! Thanks for the help everyone!