QUOTE(HarveyH @ Jul 25 2012, 10:37 PM)
I believe it's been reported that sometimes the crimping of the cable end extrudes to the sides too much and needs to be ground down just a tiny bit to avoid binding as the cable end goes through the curves of the tube.
Click to view attachment Harvey
I have checked the size and the crimps do not protrude as far as the threads, so I'm afrad its a no-go there.
QUOTE(chrispy @ Jul 25 2012, 10:40 PM)
You might try putting a small bend on the coat hanger, hooking it up to an electrical drill, add lots of WD40 and reem out the tube.
Good luck, chris
I'll try this, but It will be difficult to get my drill in there.
QUOTE(dangrouche @ Jul 26 2012, 01:04 AM)
i had a similar problem and did the coat hanger and WD-40. Simply "twirl" or rotate clockwise while pushing forward. you will be pushing on the cable right where the cable enters the tube at the back panel wall. once the threaded end of the cable gets past that slight obstruction through the twirling process, it should slide right in. think of the new cable as a drill and you are rotating the new cable as the drill bit. report how this goes
I'll also try this, but what do I don if I get it jammed in there deep and then it sticks?
QUOTE(pilothyer @ Jul 26 2012, 01:04 AM)
The last itme I did this I found that the last bend in the tube was causing a problem. When we finally pulled the old cable through (which took a lot of pull) we found that the bend had become smaller somehow. We finally decided to trim off about 1/4 inch off the threaded end and it pushed through the tube without any problems. We also found that the trimming didn't affect the overall length of the cable and that the cable attached to the front end with no problem. I think it is something to do with the way the new cables are made.
Cutting 1/4 inch off seems like a good idea.
QUOTE(Jeffs9146 @ Jul 26 2012, 02:07 AM)
I had a very similar problem and it turned out that when the factory installed the tube where they welded it in they left a bunch of pointy weld slag inside the tube and the cable would hang up and catch on it! I ended up mesuring the length until the cable stopped and grinding out the corisponding distance of the tube inside the center tunnel! Works great once I got the blockage out!
what did you use to grind?
QUOTE(RobW @ Jul 26 2012, 02:25 AM)
Happened to my old race car. Same way. From the accelerator side of the tube and down hill, spray brake cleaner into the tube. Rust will come out. Was the car jacked at the center tunnel? See if any on the tube is bent. Straighten as needed. Flush 3-4 times.
Good luck!
QUOTE(lotus_65 @ Jul 26 2012, 04:37 AM)
i hope it's as easy as those other guys... but it isn't always. : (
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=throttle+cableI hope to god mine doesn't end up like yours! What a pain!
So, My plan of attack:
Look inside the tube for any out of place bends in the accel. cable tube. If there are any, correct and check fit.
ream the tube with WD-40 and a coat hanger on a drill.
cut 1/4 inch off the threads of the cable.
check fit.
ream again with sturdier rod
Push through with coat hanger
If no go,
part the car out...
just kidding.