Body work, to bondo or not to bondo~ Options

[mercdev]

In removing the rear bumper from my car I notices that the PO had used mud on the rear right tail under the light housing (didn't bother to even sand it smooth so it was even with the surrounding area before painting). I've read other places that the factory even used mud to even out the bodywork prior to factory paint.

My question is, where on the car is this a bad idea (of course I know not to do it on the longs/hell hole areas)?

[tdgray]

Absolutley All Metal ROCKS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

You should be able to aquire it at any local Auto Body supply store. Unless they changed the packaging it comes in a silver labeled can. It is made by a company called US Chemical (right here in beautiful Canton, Ohio (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ).

It is lightweight, very sandable, can be filed, fills small holes very well, is waterproof, can be drilled (yes drilled) without cracking. What else can you say it is super stuff.

In the FWIW column.... I also use thier top coat filler called Icing (white tube-pink putty). I only use this to fill pin holes and VERY shallow imperfections. I would say less than 1/32 thick.

[rhilgers]

Evercoat Metal-2-Metal is easier to find in my area. It the same type of stuff but harder to work with.

I tried to hammer the stuff off a test sheet..nothing doin. It does not come off.

BTW: Ever wonder where the seam goes where the door meets near the latch?

When the paint is original , why is the area around the fender seam by the window less glossy than the rest of the car?

lead...lead...lead. Lots of it.

Be carefull! Dont smoke that lead!


Hootus..now that was a funny thread!

-Rich Hilgersom



http://www.evercoat.com
Metal-2-Metal™
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aluminum filled body repair filler for metal surfaces. Has excellent corrosion resistance and superior adhesion to galvanized steel and aluminum. Will not sag. Best known as the "nearest thing to lead." Moisture proof. Rustproof. Easily sands to a fine featheredge. Metal-2-Metal™ liquid reactor included.

[Brett W]

Guys there is nothing wrong with using a filler, whether it is a plastic based or metal based. I have and will continue to use it but only where it is absolutely necessary and in a very minimal amount. In my opinion if you are not good enough to do the body work without piling on the mud then you have no business painting or doing body work on a car.

AS far as brands I have been very happy with Rage by evercoat. I also use some of their two part spot putty. I prefer a filler that doesn't grow a lot and will have an ever so slight amount of flex to cut down on cracking.

Replacing metal is the only way to fix crappy work in my experience. Then use an minute amount of filler over the weld bead, not fill the whole fender with mud and shape from there.

[Root_Werks]

Guys there is nothing wrong with using a filler, whether it is a plastic based or metal based. I have and will continue to use it but only where it is absolutely necessary and in a very minimal amount. In my opinion if you are not good enough to do the body work without piling on the mud then you have no business painting or doing body work on a car.

AS far as brands I have been very happy with Rage by evercoat. I also use some of their two part spot putty. I prefer a filler that doesn't grow a lot and will have an ever so slight amount of flex to cut down on cracking.

Replacing metal is the only way to fix crappy work in my experience. Then use an minute amount of filler over the weld bead, not fill the whole fender with mud and shape from there.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)