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> Jim Kelly's 1975 914 Subaru Conversion and bumper backdate, "IF i can do it - anyone can" "IF being key word"
IM101
post Sep 20 2012, 11:48 AM
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Very cool, looks like a great body to start with. Btw I'm no welding expert but do have some experience in the field and in class. I would suggest goingwith an 90-10 to 80-20 argon-CO2 mix on the gas. Pure argon is for tig and stainless normally, not mild steel body panals. The CO2 should help the weld flatten out and look nice. Oh and the speedglass, or most any quality auto darkening helmet, will be great and make learning much easier.
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76-914
post Sep 20 2012, 12:09 PM
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Aren't those helmets the best thing since pockets on a shirt? I just missed an LL model complete car w/ a blown head gasket (EZ30D) for $800.00. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) Way to go, Jim. Looks like everybody is getting a head start on me. I've set a limit of $1200 for a donor car or front clip so it may be a few more month's. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) In the meantime I will be following your thread in hopes that I can avoid skinning my knees. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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jimkelly
post Sep 20 2012, 12:13 PM
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just finished fabbing the plugs for the holes left from removing the big black bumpers - only to later realize i could have used my sheet metal snippers to shape them FAR more easily (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)


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zymurgist
post Sep 20 2012, 12:28 PM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Sep 19 2012, 09:18 PM) *

not yet - but i'll need better MPG's until gas gets back down to $1.50 a gallon.


A Ninja 500 goes 54 miles on a gallon of 87 octane... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biker.gif)
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bulitt
post Sep 20 2012, 04:37 PM
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Tractor supply exchanges the small co/argon bottle for @22$. You need a bottle to start the process- check craigslist.
Catch a sale at Northern tool for an auto-darkening helmet (39$).
And get one of these at HF- you will never regret it. Find a coupon for one (29$)
Electric hand held shear
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jimkelly
post Sep 21 2012, 06:27 AM
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while i only drilled out about 12 spot welds so far - i feel this tool is a good one - i only went completely thru on one. next i will remove most of the engine tin shelf.


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Eric_Shea
post Sep 21 2012, 06:36 AM
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What happened to the car Scotty b(iatch) was/is working on? I've heard good things about Adderall. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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jimkelly
post Sep 21 2012, 06:45 AM
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adderall

all drugs have side effects.

that is why i will keep using them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)
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Evil914
post Sep 21 2012, 07:15 AM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Sep 19 2012, 05:18 PM) *

not yet - but i'll need better MPG's until gas gets back down to $1.50 a gallon.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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jimkelly
post Sep 21 2012, 11:05 AM
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removed most of the passenger side tin shelf - hell hole seems ok - but there is a hole in the firewall to passenger compartment and thru fender panel and battery tray area.

oh yeah - some of the shelf is spot welded from the inside and some is spot welded from the other side - son of a bitch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)


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Eric_Shea
post Sep 21 2012, 01:50 PM
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Seriously... are you not going to finish the V8 car? I thought you had a lot wrapped up in that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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jimkelly
post Sep 21 2012, 02:20 PM
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eric - i'll update my v8 thread after i work out the details.

question - what tools would one use to clean up my engine bay pictured above?

jim
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trojanhorsepower
post Sep 21 2012, 02:32 PM
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That looks like a good spot weld cutter, who makes it?
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Porcharu
post Sep 21 2012, 02:32 PM
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Wire wheel and or wire wheel cup (the nasty ones made out wire rope pieces) on an angle grinder. It will eat that paint and rust real quick. Make sure to wear some heavy gloves, if that wheel bites on something it may rip out of your hands and you don't want that spinning wheel digging into you.

A flap wheel on the grinder is nice for touching up the cut spot welds.
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jimkelly
post Sep 21 2012, 03:27 PM
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Blair makes the spot weld remover - to buy link above.

i have a cup wire wheel - i'll give it a try tomorrow.

thanks guys!



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strawman
post Sep 21 2012, 09:18 PM
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Try a twisted-wire wheel; the one you've got is pretty light-duty. The twisted one will really dig out the nasty stuff. I use both a cup wheel and a flat wheel when removing paint, crud and rust.

The spot weld cutters work great if you're trying to save the piece you're removing, but if you're going to toss it anyway (like the engine shelf pieces), then I'd recommend just hitting each spot weld with a grinding wheel on an angle grinder, or a carbide burr on a die grinder (preferred). With a little practice, you'll be able to weaken the top piece enough to break it free and then follow up with a flapper disc afterward to clean everything up. It also eliminates the little leftover "halos" the spot cutters leave behind. I used that method when removing the engine shelves and I'm glad I did -- cuz there are a zillion of 'em! Just be sure to use eye and ear protection.

Geoff
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jimkelly
post Sep 22 2012, 06:01 AM
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knotty wire wheel - got it
safety gloves and googles - got it

see this video - nice eastman product with especially nice attachment


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm7W7Db5vdw
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smdubovsky
post Sep 22 2012, 06:24 AM
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Looking good.

You want "C25" gas. 25% CO2, 75% argon. Its by far the most common mig gas and almost assuredly what all the settings charts for your welder are spec'd for (miller puts them on a sticker inside the door for the wire, don't know if lincoln does the same.)

Believe it or not, the cheap harbor freight auto-dark helmet works well. (note: this is about the ONLY time I'll recommend anything from HF.) I have a $$$ miller digital elite but I weld a lot. For the occasional user I don't think the extra $ for a nicer helmet is worth it.
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Mike Bellis
post Sep 22 2012, 06:45 AM
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QUOTE(smdubovsky @ Sep 22 2012, 05:24 AM) *

I have a $$$ miller digital elite but I weld a lot. For the occasional user I don't think the extra $ for a nicer helmet is worth it.

How much is your site worth now? How much is your site worth when it's gone? Just sayin... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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jimkelly
post Sep 22 2012, 09:00 AM
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man - i read and reread this exchange.

then i realized (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

sight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

i think i am gonna spend the $150 and get a nice helmut - besides, it seems that variable shading is a must have feature.

and as for harbor freight, i think i will avoid whenever possible - thanks for the tips.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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