figured i could at least started on low cost areas of preping my tub for suby engine and trans conversion.

so started with removing big black bumpers.

selling my last set of 4 lug fuch so both my cars can have sport steel wheels on them. i think i found a place to affordably powder coat them gloss black.

rear trunk as it currently looks - i know it will need at least a small mod to accomodate the starter.

cut out for radiator air flow in and out.

used drill with step down bit, grinder with cut off wheel and then grinder with grinding wheel to finish the job.

as for backdating the bumpers. i cut the tabs off at the four corners and ground the remaining metal flat with the body. i really doubt that removing the remaining metal that is spot welded to body is needed. still have to cut away wide front trunk tab.

question - should i be spraying all the exposed metal with, rattle can etch primer, after wiping area down with mineral spirits?

Lookin' good, Jim! Can't help you with the primer question, but it seems you have a very solid 914 as a basis for the project.

I'm still picking metal filings out of my feet from the Sawz-All portion of my conversion.

Now that I look at it, the center part of my front cutout looks like the famous Scream painting.

i have this welder - never used it - need to get a tank of argon, a helmut, gloves, jacket, cart - i have some rusty doors to practice on.

Looks good. Keep posting progress. I need motivation to keep my car until I can afford a suby swap.


Matt

Andy, do you know anyone with a spare Helmut?

As long as it isnt lacquer, then you can spray any rattle can primer/paint on bare metal. You wont be using lacquer for the final paint so you dont want that anywhere as it could cause issues.

Is the V8 car done?

not yet - but i'll need better MPG's until gas gets back down to $1.50 a gallon.

Hey jim,
looking good.
I hear the top of the wheel well cutouts are prone to cracking due to flex.
I didn’t do it on mine yet, but I plan to add a doubler around the cutout to help prevent cracking.
You may want to do the same while you’re in there.

$1.50

Subscribed.

I'll start my thread for my conversion soon. In the mean time I look forward to watching your progress.

I am subscribing as well, since I want to backdate my bumpers over the winter. I know that there are countless threads, but I want to see how you locate the dog-bone holes. I have not found a thread yet that details that part to the level of comfort I desire. And, I enjoy your sarcasm.

Subscribed!

I love fabrication.

You just need the distance of the hole from the trunk lip for height then measure the with of the bumper holes from the centerline of the front trunk.

Did you salvage the engine from your wife's wreck?

no - i wish i did though - it was a 1.8 with one buggered spark plug hole - though i would like to begin with a small naturally aspirated and easy to come across engine. i'll need to track down a decent early legacy with a 5spd, i'd like to use its radiator too. just got to develope some welding/fab skills before then

i did order one tool though - so i can remove some spot welds.
http://www.toolsource.com/spotweld-rotabro...ot-p-76467.html

looks like tractor supply is going to be my local welding supply store - though i think i will take the recommendation here to get a low end variable shade speedglas helmut off of ebay.

Very cool, looks like a great body to start with. Btw I'm no welding expert but do have some experience in the field and in class. I would suggest goingwith an 90-10 to 80-20 argon-CO2 mix on the gas. Pure argon is for tig and stainless normally, not mild steel body panals. The CO2 should help the weld flatten out and look nice. Oh and the speedglass, or most any quality auto darkening helmet, will be great and make learning much easier.

Aren't those helmets the best thing since pockets on a shirt? I just missed an LL model complete car w/ a blown head gasket (EZ30D) for $800.00. Way to go, Jim. Looks like everybody is getting a head start on me. I've set a limit of $1200 for a donor car or front clip so it may be a few more month's. In the meantime I will be following your thread in hopes that I can avoid skinning my knees.

just finished fabbing the plugs for the holes left from removing the big black bumpers - only to later realize i could have used my sheet metal snippers to shape them FAR more easily

A Ninja 500 goes 54 miles on a gallon of 87 octane...

Tractor supply exchanges the small co/argon bottle for @22$. You need a bottle to start the process- check craigslist.
Catch a sale at Northern tool for an auto-darkening helmet (39$).
And get one of these at HF- you will never regret it. Find a coupon for one (29$)
Electric hand held shear

while i only drilled out about 12 spot welds so far - i feel this tool is a good one - i only went completely thru on one. next i will remove most of the engine tin shelf.

What happened to the car Scotty b(iatch) was/is working on? I've heard good things about Adderall.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adderall

all drugs have side effects.

that is why i will keep using them.

removed most of the passenger side tin shelf - hell hole seems ok - but there is a hole in the firewall to passenger compartment and thru fender panel and battery tray area.

oh yeah - some of the shelf is spot welded from the inside and some is spot welded from the other side - son of a bitch

Seriously... are you not going to finish the V8 car? I thought you had a lot wrapped up in that?

eric - i'll update my v8 thread after i work out the details.

question - what tools would one use to clean up my engine bay pictured above?

jim

That looks like a good spot weld cutter, who makes it?

Wire wheel and or wire wheel cup (the nasty ones made out wire rope pieces) on an angle grinder. It will eat that paint and rust real quick. Make sure to wear some heavy gloves, if that wheel bites on something it may rip out of your hands and you don't want that spinning wheel digging into you.

A flap wheel on the grinder is nice for touching up the cut spot welds.

Blair makes the spot weld remover - to buy link above.

i have a cup wire wheel - i'll give it a try tomorrow.

thanks guys!

Try a twisted-wire wheel; the one you've got is pretty light-duty. The twisted one will really dig out the nasty stuff. I use both a cup wheel and a flat wheel when removing paint, crud and rust.

The spot weld cutters work great if you're trying to save the piece you're removing, but if you're going to toss it anyway (like the engine shelf pieces), then I'd recommend just hitting each spot weld with a grinding wheel on an angle grinder, or a carbide burr on a die grinder (preferred). With a little practice, you'll be able to weaken the top piece enough to break it free and then follow up with a flapper disc afterward to clean everything up. It also eliminates the little leftover "halos" the spot cutters leave behind. I used that method when removing the engine shelves and I'm glad I did -- cuz there are a zillion of 'em! Just be sure to use eye and ear protection.

Geoff

knotty wire wheel - got it
safety gloves and googles - got it

see this video - nice eastman product with especially nice attachment


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm7W7Db5vdw

Looking good.

You want "C25" gas. 25% CO2, 75% argon. Its by far the most common mig gas and almost assuredly what all the settings charts for your welder are spec'd for (miller puts them on a sticker inside the door for the wire, don't know if lincoln does the same.)

Believe it or not, the cheap harbor freight auto-dark helmet works well. (note: this is about the ONLY time I'll recommend anything from HF.) I have a $$$ miller digital elite but I weld a lot. For the occasional user I don't think the extra $ for a nicer helmet is worth it.

How much is your site worth now? How much is your site worth when it's gone? Just sayin...

man - i read and reread this exchange.

then i realized

sight

i think i am gonna spend the $150 and get a nice helmut - besides, it seems that variable shading is a must have feature.

and as for harbor freight, i think i will avoid whenever possible - thanks for the tips.

Yeah, took me a while too. sight... They all protect against UV even when off so you aren't going to go blind using any of them.

The HF *is* variable shade. It is a nice feature to have, but to be honest for 99.5% of steel welding you'll leave it at 9. Need more for aluminum or really high current (neither of which your box will do.)

I've used the HF and own a Jackson top of the line (executive hlts?) and a miller top of the line (digital elite.) The latter have bigger windows, are 'clearer' in the off state (about a 3 vs 5), and have more sensors so you don't get flashed as often when welding in goofy positions. I had to buy the miller for doing single-digit amp tig when I got the dynasty DX tig. It also has a cool 'x-mode' that doesn't use any sensors but detects the EMI of the arc. Useful for doing low amp work and roll cages where you're often welding around the back of something. But I digress.

Its just a lcd, not rocket science. So IMO if you aren't getting a bigger window, more sensors, or a clearer off state I would still recommend just saving your money. Either spend a little more and get more features or spend a lot less. But its your money.

thanks for this additional info!

i just got back from lowes - i am ready to grind some more in the engine bay.

because i have to wear reading glasses to see anything clearly - i will use a face shield instead of googles.

Okay. But if you have a pair of googles please take a picture of yourself wearing them and post it here. Thankyouverymuch.

Also a face mask/respirator to protect your lungs.

I agree with the face mask.

One day after using the wire wheel, I thought I had a splinter in my forehead. I had to pull it out with pliers. I then discovered it was a 3/4" strand that got buried in my head. No lasting damage, I think... But it was kind of scary after measuring it.

There's not many tools manufactured in the US anymore. Most manufacturer's farm it all out to Asia. China just reverse engineers our designs, so you may as well buy the cheap stuff, same design just cheaper.
Of course they do have quality issues so I would never buy any tools such as wrenches that could snap in your hand. Stay with the forged stuff from Husky, Snap-On, Kobalt, Craftsman etc.

I agree on the mask, lots of stuff in the air.
If you need magnifier safety glasses they are available-Safety Glasses

lease leave your "science" voodoo Out of this

don't be like me and cust thru brake lines or the front trunk release cable

The meat on your forehead is deep enough to take a 3/4" strand of wire? Please post pics!!!

definitely going to look into these - thanks - jim

and here are some more pics...