draining the gas tank so i can pull it out.
will also remove parking brake cables,seat rails, seat belts today.

ok - gas tank out - heater stuff removed - interior stripped - parking brake cables removed. hand brake handle shot.

Speedometer...
http://www.speedhut.com/gauge_products-gau...dometer_GPS.htm
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...8501&st=200

Simulators for Subaru VSS Sensor and Rear Oxygen Sensor Signal...
http://www.enginewiring.com/catalog.htm#Featured

i emailed the poster of this video (jeff) about his harness. he emailed back a nice reply below.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy--MW0rT6Y


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy--MW0rT6Y&feature=plcp

"I do have a couple of harnesses done right now.
For the 90-94 obd1 and the 95 obd2 the only code that would turn on
the check engine light is the rad fan relay 1. There still has been a
couple of rare codes that pop up. If the ecm is from an automatic
car the is a wire to add to make it think it is in a manual car.
I would run a speed sensor in all. I do have a 92 harness that was
modified for a gyrocopter that didn't have a speed sensor, the 90-94
tolerate it better.
I have a 95 EJ22 in my van and the only code I get is p1101 neutral
safety switch, which there is none. It has only come on 2 times this
year in 3000 miles.
I am currently installing a 2.5 into a 71 Super Beetle.
Let me know what you need.
Jeff"

and

"Sounds good and yes.
Have you ever checked out the subaruvanagon yahoo site? Lots of info.
I currently have a KEP adapter plate that is in my project bug for
sale. trying to sell it as a package deal with a motor harness and
the VW trans.
I'm going to go with a reversed ring and pinion Subaru 5 speed instead.
Here is a few pics
Jeff"

ok - fuel lines are out - peddle custer is out - hand brake pivot removed.

i was surprised to see the first foot or so of the fuel lines are metal.

You need some ospho and a hose end sprayer...and I agree the eastwood frame sealer works great! Are you going to completely disassemble this one? If so you may just want Scotty to blast it for you???

i'd like to see this set up - i'm visual - i need to see stuff to understand it.
not going to completely disassemble - almost done dissing at this point.
want to remove cabin tar, epoxy prime cabin and engine bay, then paint.

a vaccum hose thru the tunnel got most of the loose stuff out - big difference.

had some gift cards - so i headed out lowes and home depot to get some hand cleaner, heat gun, and a couple of putty knifes.

10 mins with heat gun got this much removed. ge the gun close and let it get soft before trying to scrap it off.

this is going to be a low budget build - my next spend will be to get supplies for my welder, to get it up and running. helmut, tank of argon, etc etc.

after 30 minutes - alot of it comes off in big chunks

Don't burn out bro!

now i can see these two, firewall/top of long, areas real well.

drivers side, firewall/top of long, hole to be patched.

and yes - both long tops have at least pin holes

thought i woulod tackle an easy job - removing the axles at the swingarms.

problem is that is got all 8 cv bolts out and cvs are still stuck SOLIDLY to stub axles - i assume by the roll pins

Maybe you could remove the entire assembly by tapping out the stub axles. Once removed from the car, stub axle and CV/halfshafts can be easily separated. I found that driving a gasket scraper or screwdriver into the middle of the gasket's thickness, and then prying, worked great.

Use lots of PB Blaster before hammering the sub axles out of the hubs. On mine, one side came out with a single tap of the hammer; the other side needed repeated bashing.

rear castle not - is it 32mm?

my 32mm socket feels a little sloppy on it.

i think i need an impact gun and a way to stop the axle from turning.

first i will PB blast it for a few days.

the castle nut is a 30mm. Soak it or try some MAPP gas on it. Get it good and hot then hit it wth the impact before it cools

30mm - well that explains a lot - thanks

MAPP GAS - i will add it to my list of needed tools.

You can buy a deep 30mm impact socket at auto zone, advanced or pep boys for @ 9$

thanks - i'll do that and then soak it in PB Blaster and try the breaker bar on it in a few days.

hope i do not need mapp gas - that stuff seems pricey for a one time use.

just cut out a section of sheet metal behind the battery tray.

i'll cut it a little wider to not have to deal with the compunded bend at the left.

and i guess i'll repair the bottom right section seperately?

The impact wrench should work well to remove the nut.

The other possibility that will take about 5 min is to cut the nut with a dremel tool; put a chisel in the cut and crack the nut. I did this with internal bearing races on the rear of my 930. No heat needed.

i went out an got a 30mm socket and some pb blaster- but when i got home i decide to cut the nuts off - primarily because i have two extra stub axles, castle nuts and washers laying around - plus now i do not need to buy an impact wrench.

i guess these threads and this spline are good places for anti seize compund?

breaking my axle assy's down - i'll need 2 good cv assys for reassembly using ian's axle arrangement.

my daily driver now has 30,000 miles on it and the tires were almost bald, so i replaced them at walmart today and had them put 2 baldies on RUSTY 914 steel wheels, then i put them on the front of my 914 and a furniture dolly under the rear. now i can get to the passenger side and remove the tar from the passenger side cabin floor and cut out the firewall rust section above the long. clearly i need to get me some 3M adhesive remover.

sheet metal reference...
seems like 18-20 guage sheet metal is idea for 914
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...eet+metal+guage

rusted passenger side firewall area above long cut out and look i am going for.

drivers side long - pics, pre and post vaccuming.

Jim have you looked closely at the inside area where the handbrake is for cracks in the long? Also be careful about welding in metal and removing too much metal without keeping the tub straight.

i will check it out and use caution - thanks

Yikes!

removed some more of the cabin tar. i assume every car varies, but i think removing it from my car could have been done in one hour using heat gun and spackle blade. my tar was about 50% loose.

for later reference - easy grind mig wire.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=156717&hl=
.023 is good for the 914
Thermodynamics = firepower
ESAB=spoolarc

and that 18 guage cold rolled steel is good too
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...;hl=metal+guage

my928s4 is using - paint remover "Citrastrip" from HomeDepot.

supposedly good brake line bending tool
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productde....asp?RecID=6280
and harbor freight's
http://www.harborfreight.com/tube-bending-pliers-95782.html

my plan is to lose the headlight motors and make my headlights permanently up.

eric shea's brake venting thread ...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=90625

so here are pics of my rear calipers

i post this because the drivers side turns pretty freely but with a dry spinning noise but the passenger side is hgard to turn - my guess is venting is wrong. parking brake cables are already off.

by the looks of these calipers, they have not been rebuilt in a long time.

also, it seems that each calipers needs to be vented from both sides, oh.

Wasn't gas mileage one of your concerns? I have no idea if it would be a noticeable difference, but I am certain that they introduce some level of drag.

for a little weight savings and to have less things that can go wrong - but since i always drive with my lights on - the drag would be there regardless. this is going to be a stripped down car, minimal interior, etc. good question though.

a really nice relay board wiring thread...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...y+board+diagram

a newbie welding setup thread...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthr...6&showall=1

a place to buy ospho ...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userp...&part=11059

ace only had this, and an old navy guy/ace employee, told me how he used to use it back in the day : )

Sherwin williams paint stores.

i called 3 delaware stores and 1 maryland store and they all gave me the same story - they use to carry it - but discontinued carrying it. i can only assume some recent state laws are the reason?

a good front rubber bushings thread
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=195727

Yep good idea, I have slight permanent eye damage from a decent quality (purchased from a welding shop along with my MIG 15 years ago.) Turns out the thing switched on too slowly and would not pass the newer requirements for welding helmets. I would usually have a sinus type headache after welding - especially if I was doing a bunch of tack welds. When I was really cranking out the heat no problem at all. I ended up spending $$$ on a Speedglass with the big eyeport and I love it. I can dial it way down for low power TIG or crank it up for big amp welding. No more headaches is nice as well.

nothing going on - lack of cash and the holidays - so i decided to at least remove windshield trim and some butyl behind it - used heat gun and small flat screw driver.

19 clips - 7 at bottom, 6 at top, 3 on each side.
and pic lifted from another thread of removed clip.