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> Bolt up 160 amp Alternator Kit, "Plug and Play"
pnewman
post Sep 28 2012, 09:19 PM
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High Amp Alternator with complete installation kit

A brand new 105 amp alternator with a 160 amp Stator custom made to fit the 914 and TYPE IV VW engines.

Contact me for details: Email is best.
pnewman2712@comcast.net

There is a core charge for your old alternator TIN.

___________________________________________________________________


I was advised that I should use a disclaimer. So here goes.
Alternator Modification
We all realize that modifying or upgrading your car can be dangerous. Modifying and tuning any vehicle with other than the factory approved parts can endanger your safety. No expressed or implied warranty is made as to product's suitability for any use or ability to protect the user from injury or death. The user assumes that risk. Peter Newman and/or manufacturer shall not be liable to purchaser or to any third party for any damages arising out of the purchase, installation, recommendation, or use of any product or combination of products. It is the user's or purchaser's responsibility to determine any specification that may be needed in the use of one of these products.


Reminds me of all of those drug commercials.


Installation:


Pelican has a good page on alternator replacement.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alt_replace.htm

(Below are some details specific to the installation of the upgrade install kit.)

Replace the cooling tin with the one that I modified for you.
Install your new alternator with your new belt (provided.)
Note: This alternator and fan are much bigger than your OEM unit and as such you must make sure of good clearance both at the back (power lug) and the fan in the alternator tin. It is a tight fit. It can be accomplished with the engine in but it is harder to check fan clearance to make sure that the fan doesn't rub the alternator tin. It is important to mention that this alternator unlike your oem unit has a fan and it spins very fast which does produce a sound similar to a turbo charger. You should not hear scraping noises or sounds similar to a dry bearing as this might mean that you have a fan rubbing your alternator tin.

NOTE: If you have contact at the back of the alternator then you may need to adjust your alternator pivot bracket to move the whole alternator forward or aft in the vehicle. (The OEM bracket is designed to be adjusted. See pics below.) If the fan rubs the alternator tin then you may need to adjust the aforementioned U bolt, get a different size belt and or remove more material from the alternator tin.

Utilize ALL of the cables that have been provided to replace your older, worn and now undersized cables. Note that I added a new ground cable that goes between your new battery negative terminal and your upper bell-housing to engine case bolt. Also for better grounding add a star washer between your alternator U-pivot bolt and the alternator.
Do not reconnect battery cables until you are finished with the complete installation and have checked the alternator clearances: front (fan) and back (power bolt clearance with #2 cylinder cooling sheet metal.)

Voltage Regulator:
You will also need to remove your oem voltage regulator (as your brand new alternator has an integral voltage regulator.) Leaving your oem regulator in may act as a bottleneck for the system.

OEM Air duct boot. Leave it in and pointed at your new alternator.

Best of luck with your modifications
Pete


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Mike Bellis
post Sep 28 2012, 09:26 PM
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I paid $200 for my 180 amp Powermaster alternator. Just over $1 per amp. But I don't have a T4 engine...
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pnewman
post Sep 28 2012, 09:40 PM
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So I didn't think I had enough juice.

I didn't like the options.

Stock 55 amps in no way cuts it with night driving and then throw in some descent accessories: gps or phone charger, radio, amp, dual heat pusher blowers, maybe heated seats or rear defogger. Start stacking those loads and watch the headlights dimmmmmm. Go to start your car again and good luck.

The 70 amp might cut it. But it isn't cheap and after you pay the juice for it and a cooling boot (there's that juice again -this time it means doe.. uh I mean money) and then install it and if your a power hog like myself your juggling loads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I started digging and fitting and digging and fitting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) then grinding and welding and drilling... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) you get the idea. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif)

I think that I have made a system that works. I would say that it works well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

It took a bunch of time and money to boot to figure it out while trying not to re-invent the wheel.

Safely wired from alternator to starter to battery and I added another ground cable and a new belt to boot.

From the battery it's up to you to make sure that you use it safely.


I think that I created a kit that should take an afternoon to install with all needed parts included.
No needed fabrication on your part.
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euro911
post Sep 28 2012, 09:41 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Not sure if I'd really need a whopping 160 amps.

I think 100~125 would work for me, and a little more than a $1 per amp sounds reasonable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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pnewman
post Sep 28 2012, 09:47 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 28 2012, 07:41 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Not sure if I'd really need a whopping 160 amps.

I think 100~125 would work for me, and a little more than a $1 per amp sounds reasonable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



This alternator starts out life as a 105 amp alternator which is built up with a 160 amp Stator.

The problem is: getting it into the car. Not getting it in amps from the 105 amps; that was just money. Once it is in I thought might as well go big.

The other problem besides getting it in is carrying it safely.
The stock wiring shouldn't be used above the 55 amps oem.
...and that was when the wiring was new.

Let's not understate the "getting it into the car" fitment here.
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euro911
post Sep 28 2012, 10:02 PM
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Any additional electrical devices I would install in the car would receive new dedicated circuits (bought one of Tom's 6-place auxiliary fuse panels) with appropriately-sized wiring.

More questions, Pete.

Will this alternator be mounted somewhere other than the OEM location?
If so, how will it be cooled?
Also, will it have a built-in regulator?
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Nürburg Nomad
post Sep 28 2012, 10:07 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 29 2012, 12:02 AM) *

Any additional electrical devices I would install in the car would receive new dedicated circuits (bought one of Tom's 6-place auxiliary fuse panels) with appropriately-sized wiring.

More questions, Pete.

Will this alternator be mounted somewhere other than the OEM location?
If so, how will it be cooled?
Also, will it have a built-in regulator?

Same questions, but this sounds potentially awesome. I am intrigued. Being able to back a proper stereo, plus upgrade to the bus depot 90/100W H4 bulbs without having them dim constantly would be great!
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pnewman
post Sep 28 2012, 10:09 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 28 2012, 08:02 PM) *

Any additional electrical devices I would install in the car would receive new dedicated circuits (bought one of Tom's 6-place auxiliary fuse panels) with appropriately-sized wiring.

More questions, Pete.

Will this alternator be mounted somewhere other than the OEM location?
If so, how will it be cooled?
Also, will it have a built-in regulator?



Pete,

I did the same. I ran a dedicated line from my battery to an amp as well as to a fuse panel. I then ran a relay off of a circuit switched by the ignition to trip the auxiliary fuse panel.

Questions:
Yes: Oem location! Dig that! I didn't feel like popping the engine cover and looking at a Corvair set up.


Cooling: Good question. Modern day Alternator fan.
Regulator: Internal. Yes.
Before anyone asks: Yes Idiot light wiring to the board.

I don't know why I was hesitant about using an internal regulator at first.
I am more than happy with the situation. I haven't had a daily driver in decades where I had a charging issue and they all have internal voltage regulators. Hmmmm.
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pnewman
post Sep 28 2012, 10:16 PM
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QUOTE(Nürburg Nomad @ Sep 28 2012, 08:07 PM) *

QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 29 2012, 12:02 AM) *

Any additional electrical devices I would install in the car would receive new dedicated circuits (bought one of Tom's 6-place auxiliary fuse panels) with appropriately-sized wiring.

More questions, Pete.

Will this alternator be mounted somewhere other than the OEM location?
If so, how will it be cooled?
Also, will it have a built-in regulator?

Same questions, but this sounds potentially awesome. I am intrigued. Being able to back a proper stereo, plus upgrade to the bus depot 90/100W H4 bulbs without having them dim constantly would be great!


I couldn't agree more. In heinsight I feel as though I have always been limping along. Car seems to run better now too. Either I am imagining it as I am not concerned with draining the battery or the ignition likes the juice. ...hotter spark?
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pnewman
post Sep 28 2012, 10:22 PM
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Ok.

So I have to tell a little story here.

So it's night. I am zipping along a poorly lighted street. Top off. Singing "Take on me!" by A ha!. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)

Trust me with this one; you at one point in time or another have tried to push the limits of you manhood and hit such high notes too.

Anyhow, I noticed that the head lights would dim in sequence to the bass pulses.

That was the straw that broke the 70 amp camels back.

By the way have you quoted how much they want for the 70 amp unit that fits in the VW Type 4 engines? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)


Well that's what started this journey.
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monkeyboy
post Sep 28 2012, 10:41 PM
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I haven't replaced a stock alternator so I have no clue what that costs, but if it's truely a bolt in kit I'd be in for $200.00.
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gms
post Sep 28 2012, 11:07 PM
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QUOTE(pnewman @ Sep 28 2012, 11:22 PM) *

By the way have you quoted how much they want for the 70 amp unit that fits in the VW Type 4 engines? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

You never asked me????
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pnewman
post Sep 28 2012, 11:28 PM
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QUOTE(gms @ Sep 28 2012, 09:07 PM) *

QUOTE(pnewman @ Sep 28 2012, 11:22 PM) *

By the way have you quoted how much they want for the 70 amp unit that fits in the VW Type 4 engines? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

You never asked me????



I thought that you were a strip it down to bare bones and race the snot out of it guy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Never thought you'd be a bumpin' cruiser like myself.

Perhaps we should have spent more time on long walks.

I love you Glenn! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)
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pnewman
post Sep 28 2012, 11:34 PM
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QUOTE(monkeyboy @ Sep 28 2012, 08:41 PM) *

I haven't replaced a stock alternator so I have no clue what that costs, but if it's truely a bolt in kit I'd be in for $200.00.



You can get the alternator un machined and modified by itself for about $200.00 but that would only start you out on this journey.

The deeper I dug into this; the more the journey went something like:
yea though i walk through the valley of the shadow of death.....

you get the idea.
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euro911
post Sep 29 2012, 02:29 AM
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I didn't see the installed alternator when I first read the thread. Looks good down there.

Another question: Can the OEM style alternators be rebuilt to provide 100~125 amps? (for those of us that don't plan to run high wattage audio amplifiers).
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Mark Henry
post Sep 29 2012, 06:00 AM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 29 2012, 04:29 AM) *

I didn't see the installed alternator when I first read the thread. Looks good down there.

Another question: Can the OEM style alternators be rebuilt to provide 100~125 amps? (for those of us that don't plan to run high wattage audio amplifiers).

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I'd offer a kit both ways, many here won't install a high power stereo so 105amp would be plenty.
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JeffBowlsby
post Sep 29 2012, 08:47 AM
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914s are always begging to be upgraded for those that want to do it, but please confirm that the wiring in the photo is just a test mule prototype and not what you hope to provide?

That wiring could be improved with: no exposed wires (continuous heat shrink), no zip ties, and no crimp splices.

Do you have better photos of the harness?


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pnewman
post Sep 29 2012, 10:14 AM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 29 2012, 12:29 AM) *

I didn't see the installed alternator when I first read the thread. Looks good down there.

QUOTE
Another question: Can the OEM style alternators be rebuilt to provide 100~125 amps? (for those of us that don't plan to run high wattage audio amplifiers).


No on upgrading our oem alternators. I ran in to a dead end with all of the rebuilders and sources that I tried. That was my first leg of this journey. I spent about a dozen hours and who knows how many miles on that attempt.

I asked if a custom rewinding could be done. Only one supplier would entertain that idea and he said: "For about $200 for it and we might be able to get a little more out of it but absolutely no gaurantees and I don't recommend it. I have tried it on similar situations and it doesn't usually turn out well. But its' you buck." So I passed on that one.

Thanks for the compliment on the installation. But it is just a prototype.
It will be cleaned up much further: i.e. not two washers off of the alternator pivot but one bushing etc.


I think that I can polish it further as that was the prototype.
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pnewman
post Sep 29 2012, 10:34 AM
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QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Sep 29 2012, 06:47 AM) *

914s are always begging to be upgraded for those that want to do it, but please confirm that the wiring in the photo is just a test mule prototype and not what you hope to provide?

That wiring could be improved with: no exposed wires (continuous heat shrink), no zip ties, and no crimp splices.

Do you have better photos of the harness?



Yep. Prototype.
Yes: continous heat shrink is in its' future.



I hate making beutiful products only to tear into them after a few test runs. Kind of like an engine stand phylosophy etc.

All heat shrink, no zip ties, no spade connectors... will be with next generation... ...if there is one. Although I will redo mine regardless of where this goes.
One of my concerns is that people won't want to spend the money on on wiring and just want the alternator.


It would be an unfortunate occurence if I were to develop a Bad rep..... Pete's alternators are setting fires to our 914's .... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

...because people didn't upgrade the wiring at the same time.
Thus the "kit / package."
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Nürburg Nomad
post Sep 29 2012, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(pnewman @ Sep 29 2012, 12:34 PM) *

QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Sep 29 2012, 06:47 AM) *

914s are always begging to be upgraded for those that want to do it, but please confirm that the wiring in the photo is just a test mule prototype and not what you hope to provide?

That wiring could be improved with: no exposed wires (continuous heat shrink), no zip ties, and no crimp splices.

Do you have better photos of the harness?



Yep. Prototype.
Yes: continous heat shrink is in its' future.



I hate making beutiful products only to tear into them after a few test runs. Kind of like an engine stand phylosophy etc.

All heat shrink, no zip ties, no spade connectors... will be with next generation... ...if there is one. Although I will redo mine regardless of where this goes.
One of my concerns is that people won't want to spend the money on on wiring and just want the alternator.


It would be an unfortunate occurence if I were to develop a Bad rep..... Pete's alternators are setting fires to our 914's .... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

...because people didn't upgrade the wiring at the same time.
Thus the "kit / package."

So what's the soonest we might see such a kit available???
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