High Amp Alternator with complete installation kit

A brand new 105 amp alternator with a 160 amp Stator custom made to fit the 914 and TYPE IV VW engines.

Contact me for details: Email is best.
pnewman2712@comcast.net
There is a core charge for your old alternator TIN.

___________________________________________________________________


I was advised that I should use a disclaimer. So here goes.
Alternator Modification
We all realize that modifying or upgrading your car can be dangerous. Modifying and tuning any vehicle with other than the factory approved parts can endanger your safety. No expressed or implied warranty is made as to product's suitability for any use or ability to protect the user from injury or death. The user assumes that risk. Peter Newman and/or manufacturer shall not be liable to purchaser or to any third party for any damages arising out of the purchase, installation, recommendation, or use of any product or combination of products. It is the user's or purchaser's responsibility to determine any specification that may be needed in the use of one of these products.

Reminds me of all of those drug commercials.




Pelican has a good page on alternator replacement.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alt_replace.htm

(Below are some details specific to the installation of the upgrade install kit.)

Replace the cooling tin with the one that I modified for you.
Install your new alternator with your new belt (provided.)
Note: This alternator and fan are much bigger than your OEM unit and as such you must make sure of good clearance both at the back (power lug) and the fan in the alternator tin. It is a tight fit. It can be accomplished with the engine in but it is harder to check fan clearance to make sure that the fan doesn't rub the alternator tin. It is important to mention that this alternator unlike your oem unit has a fan and it spins very fast which does produce a sound similar to a turbo charger. You should not hear scraping noises or sounds similar to a dry bearing as this might mean that you have a fan rubbing your alternator tin.

NOTE: If you have contact at the back of the alternator then you may need to adjust your alternator pivot bracket to move the whole alternator forward or aft in the vehicle. (The OEM bracket is designed to be adjusted. See pics below.) If the fan rubs the alternator tin then you may need to adjust the aforementioned U bolt, get a different size belt and or remove more material from the alternator tin.

Utilize ALL of the cables that have been provided to replace your older, worn and now undersized cables. Note that I added a new ground cable that goes between your new battery negative terminal and your upper bell-housing to engine case bolt. Also for better grounding add a star washer between your alternator U-pivot bolt and the alternator.
Do not reconnect battery cables until you are finished with the complete installation and have checked the alternator clearances: front (fan) and back (power bolt clearance with #2 cylinder cooling sheet metal.)

Voltage Regulator:
You will also need to remove your oem voltage regulator (as your brand new alternator has an integral voltage regulator.) Leaving your oem regulator in may act as a bottleneck for the system.

OEM Air duct boot. Leave it in and pointed at your new alternator.

Best of luck with your modifications
Pete

I paid $200 for my 180 amp Powermaster alternator. Just over $1 per amp. But I don't have a T4 engine...

So I didn't think I had enough juice.

I didn't like the options.

Stock 55 amps in no way cuts it with night driving and then throw in some descent accessories: gps or phone charger, radio, amp, dual heat pusher blowers, maybe heated seats or rear defogger. Start stacking those loads and watch the headlights dimmmmmm. Go to start your car again and good luck.

The 70 amp might cut it. But it isn't cheap and after you pay the juice for it and a cooling boot (there's that juice again -this time it means doe.. uh I mean money) and then install it and if your a power hog like myself your juggling loads.

I started digging and fitting and digging and fitting. then grinding and welding and drilling... you get the idea.

I think that I have made a system that works. I would say that it works well.

It took a bunch of time and money to boot to figure it out while trying not to re-invent the wheel.

Safely wired from alternator to starter to battery and I added another ground cable and a new belt to boot.

From the battery it's up to you to make sure that you use it safely.

Not sure if I'd really need a whopping 160 amps.

I think 100~125 would work for me, and a little more than a $1 per amp sounds reasonable

This alternator starts out life as a 105 amp alternator which is built up with a 160 amp Stator.

The problem is: getting it into the car. Not getting it in amps from the 105 amps; that was just money. Once it is in I thought might as well go big.

The other problem besides getting it in is carrying it safely.
The stock wiring shouldn't be used above the 55 amps oem.
...and that was when the wiring was new.

Let's not understate the "getting it into the car" fitment here.

Any additional electrical devices I would install in the car would receive new dedicated circuits (bought one of Tom's 6-place auxiliary fuse panels) with appropriately-sized wiring.

More questions, Pete.

Will this alternator be mounted somewhere other than the OEM location?
If so, how will it be cooled?
Also, will it have a built-in regulator?

Same questions, but this sounds potentially awesome. I am intrigued. Being able to back a proper stereo, plus upgrade to the bus depot 90/100W H4 bulbs without having them dim constantly would be great!

Pete,

I did the same. I ran a dedicated line from my battery to an amp as well as to a fuse panel. I then ran a relay off of a circuit switched by the ignition to trip the auxiliary fuse panel.

Questions:
Yes: Oem location! Dig that! I didn't feel like popping the engine cover and looking at a Corvair set up.


Cooling: Good question. Modern day Alternator fan.
Regulator: Internal. Yes.
Before anyone asks: Yes Idiot light wiring to the board.

I don't know why I was hesitant about using an internal regulator at first.
I am more than happy with the situation. I haven't had a daily driver in decades where I had a charging issue and they all have internal voltage regulators. Hmmmm.

I couldn't agree more. In heinsight I feel as though I have always been limping along. Car seems to run better now too. Either I am imagining it as I am not concerned with draining the battery or the ignition likes the juice. ...hotter spark?

Ok.

So I have to tell a little story here.

So it's night. I am zipping along a poorly lighted street. Top off. Singing "Take on me!" by A ha!.

Trust me with this one; you at one point in time or another have tried to push the limits of you manhood and hit such high notes too.

Anyhow, I noticed that the head lights would dim in sequence to the bass pulses.

That was the straw that broke the 70 amp camels back.

By the way have you quoted how much they want for the 70 amp unit that fits in the VW Type 4 engines?


Well that's what started this journey.

I haven't replaced a stock alternator so I have no clue what that costs, but if it's truely a bolt in kit I'd be in for $200.00.

You never asked me????

I thought that you were a strip it down to bare bones and race the snot out of it guy.

Never thought you'd be a bumpin' cruiser like myself.

Perhaps we should have spent more time on long walks.

I love you Glenn!

You can get the alternator un machined and modified by itself for about $200.00 but that would only start you out on this journey.

The deeper I dug into this; the more the journey went something like:
yea though i walk through the valley of the shadow of death.....

you get the idea.

I didn't see the installed alternator when I first read the thread. Looks good down there.

Another question: Can the OEM style alternators be rebuilt to provide 100~125 amps? (for those of us that don't plan to run high wattage audio amplifiers).

I'd offer a kit both ways, many here won't install a high power stereo so 105amp would be plenty.

914s are always begging to be upgraded for those that want to do it, but please confirm that the wiring in the photo is just a test mule prototype and not what you hope to provide?

That wiring could be improved with: no exposed wires (continuous heat shrink), no zip ties, and no crimp splices.

Do you have better photos of the harness?

No on upgrading our oem alternators. I ran in to a dead end with all of the rebuilders and sources that I tried. That was my first leg of this journey. I spent about a dozen hours and who knows how many miles on that attempt.

I asked if a custom rewinding could be done. Only one supplier would entertain that idea and he said: "For about $200 for it and we might be able to get a little more out of it but absolutely no gaurantees and I don't recommend it. I have tried it on similar situations and it doesn't usually turn out well. But its' you buck." So I passed on that one.



I think that I can polish it further as that was the prototype.

Yep. Prototype.
Yes: continous heat shrink is in its' future.


I hate making beutiful products only to tear into them after a few test runs. Kind of like an engine stand phylosophy etc.



It would be an unfortunate occurence if I were to develop a Bad rep..... Pete's alternators are setting fires to our 914's ....

...because people didn't upgrade the wiring at the same time.
Thus the "kit / package."

So what's the soonest we might see such a kit available???

Interesting stuff.

I like the idea of more power(juice), but what will it cost horsepower wise?
How much more HP will it take to turn a bigger Alt?

I have a dream of an electric A/C pump powered by a bigger alternator. I fear that an alternator big enough to handle it would cost as much more HP as the A/C pump by itself.

Anyone here know about that?

I thought about the Hp cost as well as the time and money.
I guess that you don't get something for nothing. So I guess that it would have to put more of a load on the engine.

At the same time that I did this I also swapped out my muffler to a cherry bomb from a turbo. The Cherry bomb set up definately has less restriction than the Turbo. I then put the car back on the road and didn't notice a difference in performance. I loaded the car down with accessories at idle and she didn't seem to notice. Correction: The car did notice. I have never heard or felt this car start or idle better before. I am guessing that I had a little bit weaker spark before as compared to now. I thought that it ran fine before but compared to now my perspective has changed.

I guess one would have to dyno a car with the oem 55 amp alt and then the upgraded alt to get an objective comparison.

I have never heard of an electrically driven A/C on such a small car before. I guess that it must have been accomplished before. I would like to see what would become of your AC project. Please start a project thread if you go ahead with it.

If you do, do it, I'd be interested in a lower-wattage kit ...

The drag coefficient of an alternator will vary with the amount of 'juice' you pull from the electrical system.

As for powering an electric AC compressor, you lose efficiency with each conversion you go through. The current draw from a compressor will also cause more drag on the alternator.

I should be able to start putting some numbers together in a week or so.

I will have to find a new machine shop to out source the mounting mods. This may take a while. The machining was the pain in the ass.

The shop that I had do the prototype said that they under bid the job and not to bring in another one. If that tells you what a pain it is. Perhaps welding Al / zinc pot metal just sucks. ? Oh well... chip chip.

Prototyping has a learning curve. Once the tooling/fixtures are set up, the production cost per 'widget' comes down. However, limited runs jack the costs back up

Pete,

I am interested.

Mark

Pete, you had me at "so"! I'm in
Does this kit include a rubber plug, to cap off the rubber boot? Maybe you can talk with Mikey914 to source said plug.
I wonder with the extra airflow under the tin, will it cool better?

I couldn't agree more.

I am not ready to buy a dozen of these set ups only to find out that I am stuck with them.

I guess it is a happy medium between doing ones and two's and doing a gross.

If I go for a dozen or more I might invest in a Tig. Ouch!

I have sourced a NEW rubber grommet for the engine tin.

I am having a hard time finding the 3 pin female electrical plug for the engine electrical board to provide a lead for the voltage idiot light.



Chip chip.

I have but a few hurdles to overcome.
..a not so minor one is the machine work on the slide ear for the mount. The prototype machinist said no more!
..I need to find a source for the 3 pin connector that goes into the electrical board in the engine compartment.
I think that I have the rest figured out. Just need to crunch numbers after those issues and then see if people want to spend the money and then I will do a run.


The responses should be interesting.

Instead of trying to locate that 3 pin connector that plugs on the relay board, why not include in your kit a pin extraction tool. Just include a set of instructions on how to use the tool, so that you can re-use that 3 pin plug.

Cooling: Their are different fans that I have played with on this alternator.

Issue one was to keep the alternator cool.
Issue two was to not grind tin in the process.
Issue three was to be able to adjust the belt tension whilst still accomplishing the above.


I think that this will indeed cool the engine a little bit better. How much at this time is uncertain. Every bit helps.
Perhaps the added cooling might help offset the 1.001hp loss by the up'd amperage

I like your thinking.

I was actually thinking of having people send me their harness's as cores or something but I am trying to make this a true plug and play kit (or as close to it as I know how.) I think the "core" business is a pure headache and am trying to avoid it.

I am also trying to make this an "all NEW parts" kit or as much as possible.

I am trying to make something that people receive and bolt on. Call a fellow teener enthusiast over for a cold beverage and 3 hours later (if their bolts aren't too rusted solid that is) then crack a cold one and take her for a test drive.

The parts are out their.
People are just keeping their sources a secret... naughty naughty.

Thanks,

Pete

I have spent many many days doing research trying to source new connector sockets for the silly dual relay, and came up short. I just feel that you may come to the same heart sinking conclusion as I did.

Towards that 3 pin connector on the OEM wiring harness, the pins have spring clips, and can be removed, given you have the correct tool. I'm with you on the plug and play idea, and you can set it up to be 98% that way. Build the new wire harness, attach the new pins to the harness, then in the instructions with your kit, explain how to remove the 3 pins, and insert the new harness pins in the corresponding locations. Pictures would be a great help in your instruction booklet. Everything else will be plug and play except that connector, which the end user can do himself given the tool and instructions and 10 minutes worth of labor.

I am in for 1 kit with the 105 amp option.

Nice work on developing this.

John

Have you addressed how you might sell kits for 914s that have already been changed? Mine has a 1200cca Optima Red Top battery up front with 2 gauge wire running back to the engine, so my parts needs will differ from that of a factory stock teener...

FYI: I was going to order a pack of the female spade spring clips. I have seen them advetised as "with Tab" also.

Dual Relay.
I have only been able to get old / used dual relays to work on my car. The new ones that are plastic and have to be shaved down to fit don't function for me.
I didn't spend any time further on the issue as I am running perrrrrfect now.
Any of you L-Jet 1.8 liter guys have any ideas?

...not to highjack my own thread

I don't see why I would down grade from your #2 wires as I plan on using #4 gauge.
I do have some information that might be of interest to you:
You might want to utilize a lead from this Alternator pigtail that isn't needed for the stock battery location.
When their is a very long run (such as yours) builders sometimes run a dedicated lead from the pigtail to the battery. The idea is that this direct routing to this pigtail lead better accomodates the internal voltage regulator monitoring of the true battery condition and thus adjusts for said demands more accurately. This is the theory.

For your situation I could put a (ridiculiously) long lead off of this pigtail to accomodate you. Something like this can be accomomplished easly if informed early in the process.


But honestly; at this point I am trying to get past oem fitment.
If the kit is well received I will then go from there.


Thanks,
Pete

Kind of a quality control device.


I don't plan on tearing my car apart with every kit check then putting Humpty Dumpty back together again.

I think that for the time being I will be using cleaned up but yes used (but in good condition) 3 pin connectors. I have enough to send out and see how this works out and is received.

I have been receiving numerous emails of interest.
If people are willing to pay for the goods and services... ?$?
I will take the first TWO orders.
This will be a test run.
Not to see if it can be accomplished.
(I already have that licked.)
But to see if it is worth the headache to do a larger run and of what amperage.

I will have to be in close personal contact with the two buyers to see how it is received and to work on installation instructions as well as polishing up the process.
I am sure that after taking this stuff apart so many times that I am taking part of the process for granted where as others less familiar might need a little more instruction / information.

The funds will be personal check or PayPal + fees.

Once funds have cleared I will make and assemble the first two kits.
I am anticipating a production time for the first two alternator kits (machinist accomodating) from funds to shipping out of 2 weeks.

I will take pics of the Kits and post them!
Then ship them out.

Regards,

Pete

shshsh... I am hunting wachinists. (we need an Elmer Fudd icon.)

There will be 2 amperages available:

105 amp

or

160 amp.
(The 105 amp case with upgraded internals to bring it up to 160 amp.)

FYI: The 160 amp might still have 105 amp markings on it's case. Feel free to have it load tested prior to installation.

The 150 amp will have a kit price about $50 lower than the $160 amp kit.I will continue to work on the total kit price and hope to have only two numbers to choose from soon.

See edited POST#1


I looked into middle amperage per multiple requests.

I am able to do 140 amp conversions of the 105 amp alternator instead of the 160 amp; however the price of the 140 amp is the same price as the 160 amp conversion so I didn't bother listing it. Why bother. I can't see why for the same money one wouldn't just go the 160 amp route.

If you are still set on using 140 amps then I will accomodate you.

Tim,
"are you selling a bracket?"
What is being sold is a brand new Alternator.
It will bolt in the oem brackets.
It will not however fit through the oem tin. Thus the Installation Kit. I take the guess work and wasted time out of it.
If one wants to try and modify their own tin. That's cool. Best of luck.


You choose the amperage.
You decide if you want to tackle the cables and the tin and then find a belt that fits.

Can I go to the local parts store and buy a replacement when this one craps out?
No.
You can take this one to an alternator rebuilder and have them rebuild it for you.
It is a commonplace Delco / GM Alternator that has been modified to fit our cars.

By today's market they should hand yours back the next day for about $125 give or take.

FYI: I tried going to Autozone and Napa and asked for a 150-ish amp alternator for my Porsche 914 and the kid said: "Sir, What year did you say your Pontiac was?"
enough said.

You will need to have this one returned to you. It has been modified to accomodate fitment to not only the mounting brackets but also the rear clearence.

Why not just get an alternator that fits behind the tin instead of dealing with the tin and the fan?

Great question. I went there first.
Simple answer. I couldn't find an alternator body to fit there that was 100+ amps.

Remember that there is not a lot of room between the head and the alternator brackets. Not for any larger amperage alternator. I tried about a dozen different alternators before I decided on this one. Then I tried about a half dozen alternator body fronts that fit that rear body and would be work-able accomodating the adjustment brackets before I decided on this set up. Then off to the machine shop.

FYI: With this set up you have about 1/4" gap between the main wire bolt and the head. The battery has to be disconnected until all is secured. That took a lot of work to get that 1/4".


Hope that answers some of your questions.

Thanks for asking.

Side note: I have been driving the snot out of this thing since installation. Not one hiccup!

$600 For an alternator and install kit? Ouch!

Here we go.

Please. Please. Please let me know where I can go right now and get an alternator that bolts into our 40 year old Porsche 914's and produces over 100 amps.

I looked here and into pelican and found only some people trying to put something together almost a decade ago without any noted conclusion.

Here it is. I made it work.

...and unlike just selling you an alternator at $325 or $385 I am letting you know that: "Hey! You are going to create a fire hazard if you try drawing all of that wonderful electricity through your stock 8 to 10 gauge oem wire that you have connecting your Alternator to your starter. So let's do it right. You will have better grounding and power supply to your starter now too!"


That's right easier starting.
Better grounding.
Possibly better cooling. (We could get into the cooling discovery / theory that I have)
Hotter spark.

All this makes for a happy and more reliable car.

You don't have to install a Brand New 160 amp alternator in your car.
Do you?
...and upgrade your wiring?

Maybe not. You can get a rebuilt 55 amp oem alternator for about $125 and plug it in and go on your merry way.


But then why are you reading this?
I am guessing because like me, you needed more power... so here we are.

Please show me a better & cheaper way.

Dave,

PM sent on the 160 amp with kit.

Pete

Can I see some pictures of what I am getting for my $600. It is a little chunk of change, but if we are changing a ton of wiring in the engine compartment it would be easier to justify.

You're absolutely right!
I would want picks too.

Working on them.
Will get them up ASAP.