A thought...

You said that you achieved the increase by beefing up the stator.
Does this mean that there is no change in the rotating mass?
I think that would mean it won't take any extra HP to run.
Am I missing something? Is there any electric/magnetic field resistance?

Yes. Only the Stator has been changed.
My understanding is that their will be no Hp loss

(comparing between the 105 amp and the 160 amp units)

until you draw beyond the 105 amps as the rotating mass of the 160 amp and the rotating mass of the 105 amp units are the same.

Dig?



I was concerned that if I didn't go to the 160 amp first that I would regret it later.
FYI: I don't make 1 penny more for selling a 160 amp unit vs the 105 amp.
I didn't think I should as it is the same amount of work for me with my current sub contractor agreements.
just my thoughts / my opinion.

I am putting the current information on the first post to make it easier for people searching to find the most current information.

Here is a pic of my test engine / mount set up that I used to adjust and check pulley alignment.

Regards,

Pete

I am currently trying to figure out a way to circumvent the Machinist portion of this process.

I am currently paying out about $100 per unit to machinist for their time and materials etc.


I have shopped around and that is the going rate per unit.

I am trying to find a way to do most of their work in house and hopefully drop the price noticably!

I will keep this thread abreast of my progress.

If I am successful. I will change the pricing on the thread title as well as Post#1 which I will keep current.

Wish me luck! ...Us luck!

Jeff,

Please feel free to expand this picture for your scrutiny.

I am still trying to fabricate an asthetically pleasing boot for the back of the GM alternator plug for the dash indicator light (although no boot is probably needed.) Do you care to offer any constructive advise?

Have a great day!

Pete

I have one more dumb request...

Do you have a charge graph for the alternator?

It looks great, but I would like to see how many amps it makes at idle, and how many RPM's it takes to max out.

When I bought the alternator for my diesel, I had to wade through a ton of crap before I found an alternator that made more amps than stock at idle. Twice the output max doesn't do a lot of good when it makes less current in the RPM range that you actually use your vehicle.

No such thing as a dumb question. Ignorant is the person who doesn't ask.

I don't have such a graph. I am not a computer guy. This forum stuff is about as far as I go.

I will see if I can put some numbers together for you and the forum's future readers.

Any requests?
I am not set up with a Dyno in my garage / shop.
I could run it up to pre-chosen engine RPM's (idle, then increments of 1000 R's) and put specific loads on it and monitor amperage and Voltage draws / drops?

Perhaps those numbers could then be put to something like an Excel spreadsheet?
That might be a useful reference.

Thoughts?

I can take a pic of the set up at the alternator shop and take notes there too.

We hook it up to a 5hp motor to spin. Loads are then applied to see what we can get out of it.

FYI: It was their that I found out that a previous ebay "upgraded" alternator that I bought was mis-represented. The seller stated 70 amps and it was still only 55 amps! He was either ignorant or not a very nice person. That was a waste of money!

Exactly. The source of the alternator should be able to provide this load test for you. If not, any alternator shop can do load testing.

I went through a few badly rewound alternators for my truck before I found one that made good power at all RPM's and didn't burn diodes because it was wound too big for the cooling system.

I will take notes of the testing with this run and post results here for you.
FYI: I tested my system for capacity without much attention to specific RPM ranges. I was very happy with the overall load capacity. I will bring special tools to watch alternator rpms during this test for you.

Should be posted next week.

Pete

Be careful buying from unknown sources. Their are great guys in our 914 sites with earned reputations. Be more careful around ebay and the like.


(Remember that I bought a "70 amp upgraded Alternator" from ebay that produced a wopping 55 amps.... but.... wait! Our oem alternators put out that exact amount. hmmm.) I don't think the ebay seller was from one of our 914 sites.

I purchased some more equipment as well as some more parts.


Still polishing this up.
The functionality is just fine as it is working great!
I was out in the prototype today as it was 78 degrees here.
(Talk about the calm before the storm or in this case the winter.)





I did a run of 3 alternators, 3 tins and 3 Combo Cables to start out with.
I will do the next 3 alternators at this price point then re-evaluate the whole thing.

I would have made more but the Alternators are not the cheapest Delco's. But they fit well and the Cheaper ones just don't fit. Oh well.

I hope that this was all worth it.
Pete

remind me again to why we need the alternator tin? What would happen if we left this piece off?

Also, am I reading your first post correctly? $205.00 for a complete install kit?

This is my understanding:

105 amp New Alternator $235.00 (Alternator only)

160 amp New Alternator $295.00 (Alternator only) (105 amp alternator with 160 amp stator)


The 'Installation Kit' is an extra $225, or less, depending on what wiring or parts you need

Don't forget the $20 credit for your old fan tin!
Also, if you want to save a couple more bucks I can give you info so that you can make your own installation kit.

I hope that this helps!

Even if you don't do a major upgrade to the alternator output like this one. The wiring upgrades are a good idea regardless.

I heard that a couple of these 914's have some rust issues ;therefore carrying an extra ground from the battery to the engine and transmission via the bellhousing might be a good idea.

Some believe that the oem wiring besides being old and brittle was in its original form barely larger enough to accomodate the cars needs. Then some of us actually put a real stereo in the car:-O So upgrading the wiring between battery and the starter and then between the starter and the alternator is a good idea too.
(See pic Below for comparison of oem alternator wire vs my replacement.)

Yes... IF I get your old tin and you pay in check form or cash and pick it up.

The alternator tin ties together some of the other tins via:
-welded nuts (see RED ARROWS) -
-to the main fan housing bolt (see YELLOW ARROW)
-as well as to the alternator pivot carriage bolt (square punched hole.)

(I guess without the tin you might experience a rattle from the other parts not being as tight as they could be.)

Hope this helps.

(Note the hole cut larger and oblong to accomodate the fan and the belt adjustment.
This is the point where I check the fitment of everything then media blast it prior to painting.)

Several people have asked about receiving a template to cut their tin to acccomodate the alternator fan etc.

Not a problem.



Hope this helps.

Pete

Found out while shipping out that everything fits in a Medium USPS Flat Rate Box!



...alternator orders and anthing else that you might want, including the tin throughout the Continental US!

So if I want the large alternator, the install kit and everything... What's the total?

$532 for the 160 amp with a complete installation kit delivered CONUS if paid via check
$548 if paid via pay pal


Note: Their are ways to save money and do it cheaper if you are a do-it-yourself-er. Remember the 160 amp upgraded alternator is by itself $295.00.
See Post #1 for kit a-la-cart options for installation or assistance info on doing it yourself.

... and don't forget:
$20 credit if you send your alternator tin to me.

I am going to start posting some information regarding the installation of the kits.



http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alt_replace.htm

I will post some pics and information mainly on the differences between this and oem equipment to make for the smoothest possible process.

(Note: Except for the extra ground wire to be added to the stock ground wire {not a replacement but an additional ground} between the negative battery post and a bellhousing bolt the rest of the parts are a direct replacement as far as plug n' play(or bolt on etc.)

This is an awesome thread. While I don't own a 914 I do own a VW Bus.
I know you developed this for the 914, but there are tons of VW Bay Window bus guys over at Samba VW that would love to see this. Many bus owners are looking to upgrade the charging system for their type IV engine while keeping the stock look.

A little known fact, my second car was a 1971 VW Transporter. That was long before I had my 914. It had the 1600 engine but I have had the opportunity to work on some Type IV's. I wouldn't mind having another Van; but don't tell my wife ;-D

I am going to feel this out then consider going to the bird and Samba etc. In the mean time feel free to spread the word.

I am looking forward to seeing what the first purchasers think. I have tried to make a product that makes you feel like Christmas came early when you receive it.

Since I am not currently a Bus / Type IV guy can you recommend where I should go to communicate what I am doing to get the word out?

Samba etc.

Thanks again,

Pete

Are you going to keep offering them? I just want to make sure you don't close up shop

I want to get a kit, but I need to stay on budget through Christmas. AFter New Years, I plan on putting in an order.

Thanks for the quiry.
All the ones that I have made have been sold or spoken for (just waiting on some funds to ship the last..)

I have been gearing up to do a batch of 12!
I spent over
$200 on wire alone!

After that...?
We'll see how customer reaction is. "A little Love makes the world go-round."

I plan on having the first three of the next batch ready to ship in about a weeks time.

Pete-

Great kit! I can't wait to get this installed.

Click to view attachment

Nice Tile !

CALL JOE



pm sent

I was asked why do we need to replace our wiring let alone up our electrical load capabilities.

Instead of going on a long dissertation I thought that I would provide a picture of an original OEM system that was taken out of a car to do one of my conversions.

Too much draw through too little wire. I wonder if it provided any illumination ...like a light bulb filament?

I will let the pictures do the talking.

Got my kit was a great install very easy and the car never ran so good!!
Thanks pete.

How noticeable is the whine from the fan with stock exhaust? My 914 is already plenty loud even in stock form!

Thanks.

Thanks for the question.

For reference:
I have two different exhaust systems that I run with my 1.8 liter L-Jet and have run the 160 conversion kit for several years now without a hiccup. I run a monza or a turbo muffler off of stainless steel heater exchangers for both with the upgraded alternator system and I think that the new alternator system sounds like a very quite turbo charger with that exhaust system. Note that I am hypersensative to sounds as I am constantly keeping an eye as well as an ear on what's going on back there. Note that I have never had anyone ask: "what is that sound" or "do you have a turbo charger?"

If anyone else who has installed one of the kits would like to chime in on the sound difference please feel free.

Hope this helps,

Pete

I had a person installing one of the kits have some rattle coming from their alternator. The back of the alternator was touching the cylinder head sheet metal.
(Please see the picture that they were kind enough to provide.)

They were not aware that the alternator pivot bolt U bracket that mounts to the main fan shroud is adjustable. The U bracket can be slid forward and reverse via its oblong holes or it can be flipped 180 degrees changing the offset even further as the holes are offset.
(See the pictures of said bracket that I provided.)

Noise not withstanding, it is important that the installer provide as much clearance as possible at the rear of the alternator to move the positive cable bolt down terminal forward / away from the cylinder head sheet metal as much as possible.

All better now. They flipped the U bracket setting the alternator further forward. No more noise!

Fan assembly installation order:

Pete,

I feel I owe you an update:

It fits GREAT! and, it works GREAT!

I drive the car daily now due in no small part to your alternator.

Thanks again for you patience and the top tip to flip the bracket.

Also, I know you need some of the old parts back... but I threw away the paperwork which you included.

What parts?

Thanks again for the fantastic kit.

Dan

Oh, and a couple more observations -

Rain? no problem!

Night driving? no problem!

Driving at night in the rain? no problem!

Driving at night in the rain with everything on? no problem!

Dan,

Thanks for the feedback!

Turn it all on and drive!
That's how cars are supposed to be!


One thing that you didn't mention but I am sure is also going on is the quality of your starting. One thing that many don't see coming is the better starting. The battery is fully charged the last time that the car was turned off and with the larger power cables from the battery through the starter to the alternator as well as adding an additional ground to the bell housing in addition to your oem grounding the engine spins like a top with strong current flow and therefore better starting.

All of the above was the goal of the kit.

Enjoy!

Pete

Any chance for another group buy?

Any chance for another group buy?
[/quote]


Sorry about the delay. Direct pm or email is the best way to contact me.

I can do a group buy / discount with 6 or more kits.
Thanks
Pete

I live in traffic-centric Los Angeles. Driving at night on the freeways in stop/go/roll traffic is disastrous. I don't even try it anymore. You can see the amp gauge drop into the danger zone of discharging. I've had the stock oem alternator checked and everything works fine. How can I get one of these from you?

Just installed mine, it even improved my idle problems on '74 2.0 djet. Now both the idle adjustment on the throttle body and the knob on the ecu actually produce changes to idle speed instead of just being exercises in futility. I thought I had found all of the grounding faults, but maybe not?

My ALT died this weekend and I have been looking for your thread. Glad I found it, now I need to know if you are still doing this fine work? I see you have not been on here for a couple months.... Fingers are crossed. I'll PM and email you too.

Thanks,

Clark

Greetings and Salutations!

I have a lot going on right now and will be swamped with remodeling, work, school and kids.

I would like to do a run of kits in July / August.
Until then I will be unable.

Please shoot me a pm (vs. an email) and I will refer to my message in box when I get through this deluge of work. Hopefully I will be contacting people after Independence Day for deposits.

Sorry for any inconvenience but these kits are VERY labor intensive and the time to do them right is just not available currently.

Quality over profit.

Peace and happiness,
Pete

Are you still on track to do a run in July/August?

I just made a run of High-Power Type IV Alternator kits.
105-amp alternator with 160-amp stator
Plug and Play kit (see picture below).

I have only 6 kits left as of the time of this listing. ( SOLD OUT )
All “wait-listed customer” orders have been fulfilled.
They are ready to ship today.
First come first served.
When they are gone, they are gone.
I am not sure when I can do another run of kits as I am starting a new career and am back in school….
As my mom used to say: “Come get it while its’ hot.”
As my brothers used to says: “You snooze, you lose.”

No core charges.
Email me for Pricing / Availability and Payment.

Great thread. I own a 77 VW Camper and am very interested in this kit. What are folks doing to plug the cooling hole in the fan shroud, since the cooling boot is deleted to the alternator body? What's the cost on kit shipping to Europe (France)?
Thanks!