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> Bolt up 160 amp Alternator Kit, "Plug and Play"
pnewman
post Sep 30 2012, 09:43 PM
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Current plan:

Once I have a machinist quote I will put together a price list.


I have been receiving numerous emails of interest.
If people are willing to pay for the goods and services... ?$?
I will take the first TWO orders.
This will be a test run.
Not to see if it can be accomplished.
(I already have that licked.)

But to see if it is worth the headache to do a larger run and of what amperage.

I will have to be in close personal contact with the two buyers to see how it is received and to work on installation instructions as well as polishing up the process.
I am sure that after taking this stuff apart so many times that I am taking part of the process for granted where as others less familiar might need a little more instruction / information.


The funds will be personal check or PayPal + fees.

Once funds have cleared I will make and assemble the first two kits.
I am anticipating a production time for the first two alternator kits (machinist accomodating) from funds to shipping out of 2 weeks.

I will take pics of the Kits and post them!
Then ship them out.

Regards,

Pete

shshsh... I am hunting wachinists. (we need an Elmer Fudd icon.)
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pnewman
post Oct 1 2012, 07:40 PM
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Communicated with my Alternator source.


There will be 2 amperages available:

105 amp

or

160 amp.
(The 105 amp case with upgraded internals to bring it up to 160 amp.)

FYI: The 160 amp might still have 105 amp markings on it's case. Feel free to have it load tested prior to installation.

The 150 amp will have a kit price about $50 lower than the $160 amp kit.I will continue to work on the total kit price and hope to have only two numbers to choose from soon.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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pnewman
post Oct 3 2012, 03:10 PM
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See edited POST#1

I revised the first post to make it easier to find the purchase information.

I looked into middle amperage per multiple requests.

I am able to do 140 amp conversions of the 105 amp alternator instead of the 160 amp; however the price of the 140 amp is the same price as the 160 amp conversion so I didn't bother listing it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Why bother. I can't see why for the same money one wouldn't just go the 160 amp route.

If you are still set on using 140 amps then I will accomodate you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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pnewman
post Oct 3 2012, 03:32 PM
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Tim,
"are you selling a bracket?"
What is being sold is a brand new Alternator.
It will bolt in the oem brackets.
It will not however fit through the oem tin. Thus the Installation Kit. I take the guess work and wasted time out of it.
If one wants to try and modify their own tin. That's cool. Best of luck.


You choose the amperage.
You decide if you want to tackle the cables and the tin and then find a belt that fits.

Can I go to the local parts store and buy a replacement when this one craps out?
No.
You can take this one to an alternator rebuilder and have them rebuild it for you.
It is a commonplace Delco / GM Alternator that has been modified to fit our cars.

By today's market they should hand yours back the next day for about $125 give or take.

FYI: I tried going to Autozone and Napa and asked for a 150-ish amp alternator for my Porsche 914 and the kid said: "Sir, What year did you say your Pontiac was?"
enough said.


You will need to have this one returned to you. It has been modified to accomodate fitment to not only the mounting brackets but also the rear clearence.
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pnewman
post Oct 3 2012, 03:41 PM
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Why not just get an alternator that fits behind the tin instead of dealing with the tin and the fan?

Great question. I went there first.
Simple answer. I couldn't find an alternator body to fit there that was 100+ amps.

Remember that there is not a lot of room between the head and the alternator brackets. Not for any larger amperage alternator. I tried about a dozen different alternators before I decided on this one. Then I tried about a half dozen alternator body fronts that fit that rear body and would be work-able accomodating the adjustment brackets before I decided on this set up. Then off to the machine shop.

FYI: With this set up you have about 1/4" gap between the main wire bolt and the head. The battery has to be disconnected until all is secured. That took a lot of work to get that 1/4".


Hope that answers some of your questions.

Thanks for asking.

Side note: I have been driving the snot out of this thing since installation. Not one hiccup!
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Mike Bellis
post Oct 3 2012, 06:19 PM
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$600 For an alternator and install kit? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Ouch!
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pnewman
post Oct 3 2012, 06:41 PM
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QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Oct 3 2012, 04:19 PM) *

$600 For an alternator and install kit? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Ouch!


Here we go.

Please. Please. Please let me know where I can go right now and get an alternator that bolts into our 40 year old Porsche 914's and produces over 100 amps. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I looked here and into pelican and found only some people trying to put something together almost a decade ago without any noted conclusion.

Here it is. I made it work.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
...and unlike just selling you an alternator at $325 or $385 I am letting you know that: "Hey! You are going to create a fire hazard if you try drawing all of that wonderful electricity through your stock 8 to 10 gauge oem wire that you have connecting your Alternator to your starter. So let's do it right. You will have better grounding and power supply to your starter now too!"

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
That's right easier starting.
Better grounding.
Possibly better cooling. (We could get into the cooling discovery / theory that I have)
Hotter spark.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) All this makes for a happy and more reliable car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)


You don't have to install a Brand New 160 amp alternator in your car.
Do you?
...and upgrade your wiring?

Maybe not. You can get a rebuilt 55 amp oem alternator for about $125 and plug it in and go on your merry way.



But then why are you reading this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
I am guessing because like me, you needed more power... so here we are. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif)

Please show me a better & cheaper way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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pnewman
post Oct 4 2012, 08:49 AM
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Dave,

PM sent on the 160 amp with kit.

Pete

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monkeyboy
post Oct 4 2012, 11:21 AM
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Can I see some pictures of what I am getting for my $600. It is a little chunk of change, but if we are changing a ton of wiring in the engine compartment it would be easier to justify.
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pnewman
post Oct 4 2012, 11:31 AM
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QUOTE(monkeyboy @ Oct 4 2012, 09:21 AM) *

Can I see some pictures of what I am getting for my $600. It is a little chunk of change, but if we are changing a ton of wiring in the engine compartment it would be easier to justify.



You're absolutely right!
I would want picks too.

Working on them.
Will get them up ASAP.
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Bob L.
post Oct 4 2012, 12:32 PM
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A thought...

You said that you achieved the increase by beefing up the stator.
Does this mean that there is no change in the rotating mass?
I think that would mean it won't take any extra HP to run.
Am I missing something? Is there any electric/magnetic field resistance?
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pnewman
post Oct 4 2012, 03:45 PM
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QUOTE(Bob L. @ Oct 4 2012, 10:32 AM) *

A thought...

You said that you achieved the increase by beefing up the stator.
Does this mean that there is no change in the rotating mass?
I think that would mean it won't take any extra HP to run.
Am I missing something? Is there any electric/magnetic field resistance?



The rotor is the same. i.e. the rotating mass is the same.


Yes. Only the Stator has been changed.
My understanding is that their will be no Hp loss


(comparing between the 105 amp and the 160 amp units)

until you draw beyond the 105 amps as the rotating mass of the 160 amp and the rotating mass of the 105 amp units are the same.

Dig? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)



I was concerned that if I didn't go to the 160 amp first that I would regret it later.
FYI: I don't make 1 penny more for selling a 160 amp unit vs the 105 amp.
I didn't think I should as it is the same amount of work for me with my current sub contractor agreements.

just my thoughts / my opinion.

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pnewman
post Oct 13 2012, 09:47 PM
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Pics posted!

Please see the original post#1



I am putting the current information on the first post to make it easier for people searching to find the most current information.

Here is a pic of my test engine / mount set up that I used to adjust and check pulley alignment.

Regards,

Pete (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


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pnewman
post Oct 13 2012, 10:08 PM
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I am currently trying to figure out a way to circumvent the Machinist portion of this process.

I am currently paying out about $100 per unit to machinist for their time and materials etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)


I have shopped around and that is the going rate per unit.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) I am trying to find a way to do most of their work in house (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) and hopefully drop the price noticably! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

I will keep this thread abreast of my progress.

If I am successful. I will change the pricing on the thread title as well as Post#1 which I will keep current.

Wish me luck! ...Us luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)


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pnewman
post Oct 14 2012, 11:31 AM
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QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Sep 29 2012, 06:47 AM) *

914s are always begging to be upgraded for those that want to do it, but please confirm that the wiring in the photo is just a test mule prototype and not what you hope to provide?

That wiring could be improved with: no exposed wires (continuous heat shrink), no zip ties, and no crimp splices.

Do you have better photos of the harness?



Jeff,

Please feel free to expand this picture for your scrutiny.

I am still trying to fabricate an asthetically pleasing boot for the back of the GM alternator plug for the dash indicator light (although no boot is probably needed.) Do you care to offer any constructive advise?

Have a great day!

Pete


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monkeyboy
post Oct 15 2012, 11:44 AM
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I have one more dumb request... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Do you have a charge graph for the alternator?

It looks great, but I would like to see how many amps it makes at idle, and how many RPM's it takes to max out.

When I bought the alternator for my diesel, I had to wade through a ton of crap before I found an alternator that made more amps than stock at idle. Twice the output max doesn't do a lot of good when it makes less current in the RPM range that you actually use your vehicle.
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pnewman
post Oct 15 2012, 02:27 PM
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QUOTE(monkeyboy @ Oct 15 2012, 09:44 AM) *

I have one more dumb request... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Do you have a charge graph for the alternator?

It looks great, but I would like to see how many amps it makes at idle, and how many RPM's it takes to max out.

When I bought the alternator for my diesel, I had to wade through a ton of crap before I found an alternator that made more amps than stock at idle. Twice the output max doesn't do a lot of good when it makes less current in the RPM range that you actually use your vehicle.


No such thing as a dumb question. Ignorant is the person who doesn't ask.

I don't have such a graph. I am not a computer guy. This forum stuff is about as far as I go.

I will see if I can put some numbers together for you and the forum's future readers.

Any requests?
I am not set up with a Dyno in my garage / shop.
I could run it up to pre-chosen engine RPM's (idle, then increments of 1000 R's) and put specific loads on it and monitor amperage and Voltage draws / drops? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Perhaps those numbers could then be put to something like an Excel spreadsheet?
That might be a useful reference. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Thoughts? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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pnewman
post Oct 15 2012, 02:32 PM
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I can take a pic of the set up at the alternator shop and take notes there too.

We hook it up to a 5hp motor to spin. Loads are then applied to see what we can get out of it.

FYI: It was their that I found out that a previous ebay "upgraded" alternator that I bought was mis-represented. The seller stated 70 amps and it was still only 55 amps! He was either ignorant or not a very nice person. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) That was a waste of money!
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monkeyboy
post Oct 15 2012, 04:15 PM
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QUOTE(pnewman @ Oct 15 2012, 01:32 PM) *

I can take a pic of the set up at the alternator shop and take notes there too.

We hook it up to a 5hp motor to spin. Loads are then applied to see what we can get out of it.

FYI: It was their that I found out that a previous ebay "upgraded" alternator that I bought was mis-represented. The seller stated 70 amps and it was still only 55 amps! He was either ignorant or not a very nice person. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) That was a waste of money!


Exactly. The source of the alternator should be able to provide this load test for you. If not, any alternator shop can do load testing.

I went through a few badly rewound alternators for my truck before I found one that made good power at all RPM's and didn't burn diodes because it was wound too big for the cooling system.
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pnewman
post Oct 18 2012, 01:14 PM
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QUOTE(monkeyboy @ Oct 15 2012, 02:15 PM) *

QUOTE(pnewman @ Oct 15 2012, 01:32 PM) *

I can take a pic of the set up at the alternator shop and take notes there too.

We hook it up to a 5hp motor to spin. Loads are then applied to see what we can get out of it.

FYI: It was their that I found out that a previous ebay "upgraded" alternator that I bought was mis-represented. The seller stated 70 amps and it was still only 55 amps! He was either ignorant or not a very nice person. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) That was a waste of money!


Exactly. The source of the alternator should be able to provide this load test for you. If not, any alternator shop can do load testing.

I went through a few badly rewound alternators for my truck before I found one that made good power at all RPM's and didn't burn diodes because it was wound too big for the cooling system.



I am currently working on making 6 complete packages available for immediate shipping.
With this run I am hoping to find more ways to get the needed parts cheaper and more importantly the sub contracting overhead down.

This will directly result in prices being adjusted a bit.


I will take notes of the testing with this run and post results here for you.
FYI: I tested my system for capacity without much attention to specific RPM ranges. I was very happy with the overall load capacity. I will bring special tools to watch alternator rpms during this test for you.

Should be posted next week.

Pete (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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