Info on welders needed., need to buy a welder. |
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Info on welders needed., need to buy a welder. |
914_1.8t |
Nov 2 2004, 03:05 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 302 Joined: 3-June 04 From: East Bay Member No.: 2,149 |
I no longer have access to a welder as my welding guy sold his, and my project is dead in the water w/o a welder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
So i'm thinking about buying one and saw this at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=6098 I don't know too much about welders (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) : 1) What is difference between MIG/TIG/ARC? 2) What's better/easier to use, GAS or Electric or it possible to use a conbo of both? Any feedback appreciated. |
914GT |
Nov 2 2004, 03:20 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,101 Joined: 11-October 04 From: Tucson Member No.: 2,923 Region Association: Southwest Region |
For auto body work I'd go with gas MIG. I don't know about the HF unit but make sure you can get the gas kit, usually runs about $100 for the regulator and different liner for the cable for non-flux wire. Tank is also extra, check your welding supply shop for prices. I don't like flux wire for car work. Gas cleaner and easier, lets you weld thinner metal. Use Argon-C02 mix or straight CO2. Latter is cheaper and deeper penetration, but argon mix best for thin gauge steel. Get a 230V unit, for 115V you have to be careful with line voltage drop at higher currents. Get the big wire spool upgrade. The small spools get used up too quick. I have both MIG and oxy-acet. I use the MIG a lot more, but gas welding/brazing does come in handy.
Before you buy the HF thing I'd go check prices at your local welding supply shop first. TIG is best for aluminum, stainless. Not for general autobody work. Harder to use. Arc is the old stick welders. Great for heavy duty welding of pipe, chassis, heavy gauge stuff. You need a real big MIG to do that work. |
Mueller |
Nov 2 2004, 03:20 PM
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#3
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,150 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
I bought my MIG from this company (an FAQ there as well)
Salesco.com I recommend a MIG with gas, that has a range that will go down low enough for the sheetmetal on the car, and a heat range high enough for the thickest metal you might want to weld....if you can, spring for a 220v unit, you'll be happier in the long run. if you plan on doing a bunch of aluminum, TIG, but they cost a whole bunch more... |
seanery |
Nov 2 2004, 03:25 PM
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#4
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waiting to rebuild whitey! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 15,854 Joined: 7-January 03 From: Indy Member No.: 100 Region Association: None |
The problem with the HF welder is this (I looked at this welder last time I was there):
No heat control. There is a switch with 2 or 3 positions, the wire speed is more adjustable than the heat. I went with the miller 135, total control of heat and speed. Spend the extra money, you'll be happy and you'll do stuff once - well maybe twice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
type11969 |
Nov 2 2004, 03:34 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Collingswood, NJ Member No.: 1,410 Region Association: North East States |
just bought a lincoln sp-135 plus here:
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p001647.htm free shipping and has the infinite controls of a miller but for a little cheaper than any miller 135 I could find. |
qa1142 |
Nov 2 2004, 04:43 PM
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#6
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Whiplash Group: Members Posts: 1,514 Joined: 1-June 04 From: Lake Zurich, Illinois Member No.: 2,140 |
I bought the HF wire feed w/o gas. Having run Miller's at prior jobs (careers) I have to say, buy one with gas and full adjustability. I only paid $109 with sale and $10 coupon, but, it is hard to get good bead.
buy with gas! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
airsix |
Nov 2 2004, 04:55 PM
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#7
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I have bees in my epiglotis Group: Members Posts: 2,196 Joined: 7-February 03 From: Kennewick Man (E. WA State) Member No.: 266 |
Get a Miller, Hobart, or Lincoln. Get it with gas, and don't get a model under 100amps. My recommendation would be for a 135amp (or so) model that runs on 110v. This will have plenty of power for autobody work, and is good quality stuff. I would not go with a 90-100amp unit. My welder is a Hobart Handler 135 and I love it. Feed mechanism never slips or jams and overall quality is excellent. I would buy this welder again in a heartbeat.
-Ben M. |
Mueller |
Nov 2 2004, 04:59 PM
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#8
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,150 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
problem solved.....he is going to borrow my welding setup (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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chunger |
Nov 2 2004, 08:46 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 409 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Albany, CA Member No.: 133 |
Was just about to say he can borrow mine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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TimT |
Nov 2 2004, 08:53 PM
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#10
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retired Group: Members Posts: 4,033 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Wantagh, NY Member No.: 313 |
That chicago eletric look like the first welder I ever bought... about 15 years ago... it worked well, and actually still makes sparks... I did graduate to a Lincoln welder though Ill have to check the model.. but that blue box worked well for me...
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davidcalvin |
Nov 2 2004, 09:26 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 200 Joined: 31-August 04 From: California Member No.: 2,662 |
Can you BUY a welder? I thought slavery was agaisnt the law.. or are you out of country?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
seanery |
Nov 2 2004, 09:29 PM
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#12
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waiting to rebuild whitey! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 15,854 Joined: 7-January 03 From: Indy Member No.: 100 Region Association: None |
welder, yes
weldor, no |
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