Oil Squirters, In the valve covers...How do ya do it? Options

[Britain Smith]

another...

[Brett W]

There is a lot of oil being put up into the head from the factory because it is a much cheaper to flood the head with oil and pull heat out than build a high end oil control system. Plus when you have pressure fed rockers you have to have that much oil upstairs.

Now with that said. I would give a left nut for High lift rockers. I mean something in the 1.7-2.0 range. This would allow much less radical ramp rates on the camshaft and still get the valves open. It will also make higher duration engines seem less "cammy".

Where does the oil go on the Pauter rockers that is coming up the pushrods? WIth Roller rockers I would run a smaller ID pushrod to limit oil to the top of the head. Then come in and put spray bars over the valve springs to keep them cool and keep the giudes alive. Then use your drysump system to evacuated the heads.

On the Topic of Piston squirters. Honda used a nice squirter with a check valve in it on the Intergra Type R (B18C5) engine. The bolts have a check valve to keep drainback from happening. One reason for having squirters is cooling the back side of the pistons. This will help keep rings from seizing when the top ring land is run close to the top of the piston. (Helps cut down on emmisions). Also helps keep the wrist pins from seizing when they are under very high stress, from high piston speed.

[john rogers]

When I had the stroker 2.8L four we used Pauter rockers. We also used type one lifters as they were lighter than the type fours and hollow cro molly push rods. The adjusters had holes in the and we got a tremendous amount of oil to the valves. We were running an Autocraft external dry sump system since it was found very early on that: 1- the stock pump could not supply enough oil at pressure and 2- that we had to use a stage to suck the oil from the heads and also the sump at RPMs over 5000. Went ahead and plumbed a dry sump system that was later used on the six conversion. As for oil getting to the valve cover area, you can fill them full in about 3 seconds at 5000 RPM with the hollow push rods. Good luck

[Jake Raby]

Those pics are one way that we get the oil to the valve covers. What they don't show is the inside of the cover that houses a set of solex main jets that can be swapped out to vary the amount of oil to the rockers.

When we do this I weld up the tips of the pushrods and keep them hollow inside, they no longer need to be passage ways for the oil.

The use of Pauter rockers is serious business. I have seen DOZENS of engine failures attributed directly to them.

They are one of my least favorite bolt ons. We only use them when we are running super long strokes and cannot get the needed lift at the cam due to clearance issues.

harles and I have been working on some higher ratio rockers for the TIV that are actually worth a damn, and self oil BUT they won't happen because they would cost too much and would never sell..

Nobody did it like VW did, use the stock rockers whenever possible! The stock rocker lightened and set up correctly is a serious contender. I have only seen ONE stock rocker broken in my entire life, and I cannot say that about the Pauter Rockers....

[Britain Smith]

Hey Jake...it was my understanding that the cam that you designed for my engine took into account that I was using the Pauter roller rockers. Understanding that I need to do something to ensure that the valve guides get the proper supply of oil, can we discuss further the proper modification and parts that will be required for my engine. I have yet to install the pushrods, should I start by welding up the ends of those?

-Britain

[Jake Raby]

Britain,
I sensed your desire to use the rockers and the cam i set you up with is designed to work with them...

Welding the tips of the pushrods is the first step, the next step is to make all those lines and etc and weld up the stock valve covers.

I plan on offering this entire kit in 2005 as more and more people are finding the issues with these rockers and needing the parts that we know work..

The engine in that pic made 217BHP, and lives on pump gas and now has 9K miles on it...

[Britain Smith]

So, considering that you plan to offer this entire kit in 2005...any chance of getting a ballpark on the cost? What would this kit include so that I don't have to start gathering the parts to make it work?

-Britain

[Jake Raby]

The kit will include the entire arrangement from the main oil galley fitting right out to the valve covers that are prewelded and ready to rock..

There is a tad over 220 bucks just in hoses and fittings in the system pictured....

The entire arrangement ready to go would run around 400.00 as a good guess. All you would need to do is tap into that oil galley and the rest would slide right on.

[Brett W]

Why not just tell Pauter they need to get it right or stop selling their junk?

[Jake Raby]

You must be kidding.....

Of course they say "There are no problems"- Typical..

On full race engines that rubn at high RPM the problems don't exist as the RPM fills the cover and the guides get lube regardless...

A street engine is a different story, especially one that gets 5th gear used too soon and has a ton of load with no RPM to get the oil moving...

[Britain Smith]

I still need to get the pushrods welded up correct?

-Britain