1973 2.0 Original Survivor, New brake lines Options

[mdelwiche]

flip in over on the same screw so its on the other side of the cap clip.

I have not found the "right" condensor anywhere....maybe the Capn has a source.

rich

I bought mine from Autozone, (duralast) never used, installed a Petronix system instead, but as you can see the wire is the same length as the original.

[McMark]

I figure the rev-limiting rotor is just another part to fail. I don't have a problem hearing the red-line RPM, so a rev-limiter is useless.

[Krieger]

I use a bosch rev limiting rotor. I always have. Cheap insurance. Its a real simple device that when spun to fast grounds out the rotor. I think it is just a single spring on it. I doubt they ever really fail. You could carry a spare one if your that worried. I use it all the time when autocrossing. There is never time to look at the tack when you are driving hard. It just does its job and I concentrate on tearing up the course. Autocrossing this past weekend there was a segment of the course I was dragging the rev limiter for maybe two seconds. Not worth upshifting. I was able to figure out the quickest way through and get a little better each time without ever looking at the tack!

[nathansnathan]

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Nigel Skeet, from the bay window bus forums, sent me this in a pm, and I am thinking of not using the rev-limiting rotor on account of his advice. it is a pretty long explanation, which he is kind of famous for. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

To prevent over-revving, Volkswagen in their 'wisdom', fitted a centrifugal cut-out (i.e. governor) type, ignition rotor arm, which shorts the HT ignition pulses to earth, when the engine attains 4,500 RPM. The absolute maximum rev limit, is 5,000 RPM, for the VW 12/13/15/1600 Type 1, 2 & 3 engines, with magnesium-alloy crankcase; unless a specially counter-balanced crankshaft has been substituted, together with fine-tolerance balancing of other rotating or reciprocating components. The 1972~83 VW 17/18/2000 Type 2 & Vanagon engine, is also fitted with a cut-out type rotor arm, which operates at 5,400 RPM, but this engine, in common with other VW 17/18/2000 Type 4 style engines (VW 411 & 412 and VW-Porsche 914/4), can safely be revved briefly, even in unmodified form, to a maximum of 6,000 RPM.

Ignition cut-out, is characterised by violent juddering of the whole vehicle, arising from induced vibration of the engine and transmission., which is likely to cause more damage than merely over-revving the engine by 500 RPM or so. This situation can be avoided, by replacing the cut-out type rotor arm with the conventional type, plus fitting a rev counter and/or adjustable, electronic, smooth-cut rev limiter, which are also incorporated into some after-market electronic ignition systems, such as the Microdynamics Formula 1, FCD system, fitted to my family's 1973 VW '1600' Type 2.

[Krieger]

"violent juddering" is horse crap! The engine sounds like it is misfiring and will not accelerate further. That is all.

[nathansnathan]

"violent juddering" is horse crap! The engine sounds like it is misfiring and will not accelerate further. That is all.

Shad Laws talks about it some in this old shoptalkforums thread. One of the Bergs chimes in at the end as well about the backfiring causing engine fires.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4186

[914Eric]

Got my new thermostat in today from awesome powdercoat. Looks like a quality piece. Took a while to get it (About a Month) because they were between production runs, but he contacted me right away to let me know when they would be available and then contacted me again when they were shipping.

All in all...a good transaction. Once I get the car running, I'll test it and let you know.

[reharvey]

Got mine from the same guy. Great service and it really works!

[bigkensteele]

Eric?

Updates?

Progress?

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[914Eric]

Hi Ken,
Summer is busy here on the ranch. Once it became clear that I wasn't going to make it to the west coast get together in June...I got a little side tracked.

I do have everything cleaned up, inspected, and ready to start putting things back together. The last part I was waiting for was a replacement fan which I got from Rich at HPH.

Thanks for the kick...I'm on it...

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[bigkensteele]

Hi Ken,
Summer is busy here on the ranch. Once it became clear that I wasn't going to make it to the west coast get together in June...I got a little side tracked.

I do have everything cleaned up, inspected, and ready to start putting things back together. The last part I was waiting for was a replacement fan which I got from Rich at HPH.

Thanks for the kick...I'm on it...

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OK, Eric. Summer is over!

Any updates?

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[914Eric]

Hey Ken,
Yea...I've been on the shelf for a while. I'm sure I don't need to explain to many of you guys how family craziness can get in the way of OUR favorite Porsche projects.

I've got a few things done, and am beginning re-assembly. I changed the front and back crank seals, clean the oil cooler and replaced the seals, changed the seal on the oil filter connector piece, and am ready to put the engine back in. I also have the clutch off and need to check to see if it needs replacing. I'll need to research what the clutch should look like if it is OK. Any guidance?

What has me slightly held up is that I'm fixing the broken clutch cable bracket on the firewall that my dad's mechanic had attached with a U-bolt. When the cable tube broke, it also put a small crack into the firewall. I removed the u-bolt and have it all in place and just need to get the small weld done to hold it in place and fix the crack. Since I'm not a welder this has had me kind of in limbo because I really don't want to turn just anyone loose on it and I don't want to learn to weld on my 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I know it's kind of a small problem, but I just haven't searched out someone to do it. Once that weld is done, I can put in my new stainless fuel lines, run all the new throttle, and clutch cables, and seal her back up. Really shouldn't take more than a couple days/weeks once I get the weld done.

[914Eric]

One additional thing I've done that I forgot to mention is that I've drained all the brake fluid and the brake lines and blown them out with air. I also replaced the front rubber brake lines with new ones from 914Rubber. I also have the rear brake lines but need to send them back. I was sent rear brake lines that didn't have the slot for the clip. Going to call 914Rubber this week to swap for the correct ones.

[914Eric]

My brake lines actually came from Eric at PMB, not 914Rubber. Talked to him this morning and it seems I got lines from a 911 by mistake. Arranged to get the proper rear lines sent out today.

Excellent service...Thanks Eric

[hattrick]

Hi Eric,

Just saw your cool story. I live in Boise and If you're down my way stop by my shop. I PM'd you. I service and restore older air cooled Porsche's. I use to work for Aase motors in California. If you need some advice or parts I might be able to help. I own a black 73 1.7 all original - never touched, a 73 2.0 and a 914-6 that I'm in the process of restoring...plus other Porsche's. What a great color too...

Wade

[914Eric]

I'm Back! Had some health issues, and am putting the car up for sale.

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