 Raddle Can Primer, what to use? |
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| URY914 |
 May 15 2003, 08:41 AM
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#1
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind.  Group: Members Posts: 120,708 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None  |
I'm progessing to the point that I need to use a primer on my fiberglass and bondo bodywork. I don't have a spray set up so I need to use raddle cans.
What brand do I use that will be compatible with my final paint? And I don't know what my final paint will be so I need something that will go with anything. I don't want the final paint to lift on me because I used the wrong primer. Do I use Krylon Gray from Home Depot or Dulicolor primer from my FLAPS or get something from a auto paint store??? Thanks, Paul |
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Replies(1 - 5)
| fuch toy |
May 15 2003, 08:59 AM
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#2
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Unregistered |
"I" would go to a auto paint supply and speak with the counter guy. A lot of the new paints are formulas that are compatible from etching primer, to base, to final. Talk to the experts and work from there.
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May 15 2003, 09:02 AM
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#3
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Group: Posts: 0 Joined: -- Member No.: 0 |
I talked to an autoparts guy and he told me that primer is primer and to get the stuff from home depot if they ran out at the auto store.
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| airsix |
May 15 2003, 10:55 AM
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#4
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I have bees in my epiglotis Group: Members Posts: 2,196 Joined: 7-February 03 From: Kennewick Man (E. WA State) Member No.: 266 |
QUOTE(L8Apex @ May 15 2003, 07:02 AM) I talked to an autoparts guy and he told me that primer is primer and to get the stuff from home depot if they ran out at the auto store. NNNNNNNNNNnOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooo!!!!!!!!! Don't talk to the "auto parts guy". Talk to the "Auto PAINT Guy". HUGE Difference. The Auto PAINT store will likely send you home with some type of epoxy primer that is compatible with the paint system you are going to use (by system I don't mean spray equipment - I mean the brand of primer/sealer/paint to be used). On the other hand if you buy your primer at an "auto parts" store you will get can-O-shite arosol talcum powder dipsenser. -Ben M. |
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| Kerrys914 |
May 15 2003, 11:10 AM
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#5
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;) Group: Members Posts: 1,568 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Williamsburg, VA Member No.: 16 |
If you are going to finish paint your car with "Rattle-Can" top coat then use "Rattle-Can" primer!!!
You don't need a big compressor or expensive paint gun to spray primier. PPG DP40 "epoxy primer"....about$60 Paint gun....$40 The thickness you need is HARD to get from "Rattle-Can" primers. If youget some primer from your Jobber that like Tower Paint it will be BETTER then the FLAPS or Lowes stff. With that said.... For a very small area you can get away with a GOOD can primer. Not the $2.99 can but the $15 can. Just my $.02 and I may even have $.01 left over (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I have primed my '74 with DP40 and am now putting 2 coats of PPG k36 high build primer, maybe this weekend. Top coat will be done the week after (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) |
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| ChrisFoley |
May 15 2003, 05:12 PM
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#6
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,926 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None 
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I have used Seymour lacquer primer from the local auto paint supplier. If it says "sandable" it is lacquer, and should be fine under any enamel paint.
The cheaper the can, the less solids are in there. More solids means more buildup, allowing more sanding before paint. Just my $.02 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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