Fuel Line Replacement, in the center tunnel |
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Fuel Line Replacement, in the center tunnel |
Lawrence |
May 15 2003, 12:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,661 Joined: 5-February 03 Member No.: 244 Region Association: None |
Okay... I've seen this debated and hashed over and over...
Replacing the fuel lines in the center tunnel - what should I use? Steel, copper, rubber, OEM plastic? Anyone know the OD size and length offhand? -Rusty |
Lawrence |
May 15 2003, 01:11 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,661 Joined: 5-February 03 Member No.: 244 Region Association: None |
These are my thoughts on the topic...
OEM Plastic: I just don't like it. Stainless steel covered rubber lines: Concerned about them acting like a file in the center tunnle. Steel: Rust. Nuff said. Flexible Rubber: Large OD compared to OEM or solid metal. After researching the options, I'm leaning heavily towards stainless steel tubing to run the length of the tunnel. Anyone have experience with this option? |
Qarl |
May 15 2003, 01:12 PM
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#3
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Shriveled member Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,233 Joined: 8-February 03 From: Florida Member No.: 271 Region Association: None |
Questions... Are you running FI or carbs? You need a return line for FI or a single line for carbs.
No to copper - it will become brittle No to rubber (otherwise you'll be replacing the lines every few years). New plastic okay (but why not go with option #4 or #5). Stainless Steel Alumimun Summit racing carriers flexible stainless steel fuel line. I think you are concerned more about ID than OD. 5/16 ID is fine! If you put in new lines, especially metal, then you should slip some rubber tubing in the center tunnel to keep the metal lines from rattling around and protect from abrasion. Also be sure to keep the lines away from the shift rod. I believe there are metal tabs in the center tunnel to keep the fuel line down. Regards, Karl |
Lawrence |
May 15 2003, 01:16 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,661 Joined: 5-February 03 Member No.: 244 Region Association: None |
I'm running carbs with an aftermarket fuel pump... so I'll only need one line.
I like the trick of covering them in the center console. Nor did I think of aluminum instead of SS. I may take a spin to Home Cheapo. I am concerned about OD, because I don't want to have to hugely open up the holes for the fuel lines. -Rusty |
sechszylinder |
May 15 2003, 01:20 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 247 Joined: 9-April 03 From: /earth/europe/germany/berlin Member No.: 545 Region Association: None |
i used copper lines for my stock fi motor and didn't experienced any problems since 5 years up to now
benno |
URY914 |
May 15 2003, 01:47 PM
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#6
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 120,708 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
I use aluminum tubing. Several mail oder parts people sell it. Summit, Keystone, CB etc. It is easy to bend to fit. Get a tubing bender from HD plumbing dept. It is a wire which has been coiled like a compressed spring. One end is larger than the other. It keeps you from kinking the line.
Paul |
anthony |
May 15 2003, 01:48 PM
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#7
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2270 club Group: Benefactors Posts: 3,107 Joined: 1-February 03 From: SF Bay Area, CA Member No.: 218 |
My question is why replace the lines at all if there is no problem with them? Lots of people seem to want to replace them just to be safe but I've never heard of a failure except for someone damaging the end of the line at the firewall. Even our fearless leader Br@d says he replaces the lines, when necessary, with another factory line from a 30 year donor car.
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Lawrence |
May 15 2003, 02:21 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,661 Joined: 5-February 03 Member No.: 244 Region Association: None |
Mine are very brittle. I recently had my fuel pump out (checking for problems, as advised by Permacr@p tech support), and the lines have become very brittle.
I was being gentle, but I cracked the line removing the hose from the stock line. The original lines are rapidly approaching 34 years old. It's time for them to go. |
anthony |
May 15 2003, 02:32 PM
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#9
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2270 club Group: Benefactors Posts: 3,107 Joined: 1-February 03 From: SF Bay Area, CA Member No.: 218 |
Ok, good reason. BTW, I was looking under my '94 Jetta yesterday and noticed that it also uses thick plastic fuel lines. I was thinking that they'd be a good replacement line for a 914. They seem long enough.
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nealnorlack |
May 15 2003, 02:56 PM
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#10
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Unregistered |
There is a good procedure for this on the Pelican web site. They recommend 5/16 and 3/8 steel brake lines. I am in the process of replacing my fuel lines and that is what I will be using. Brake lines should surely be strong enough to handle any fuel pressure that you might need. I will probably cover them with something to keep down any chaffing that might occur. I will be using carbs but will probably replace both fuel lines and block one off. That way it will be there if someone wants to convert back to FI. The Pelican Tech. articles and this web site have helped me a whole lot.
Cheers, Elliot (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) |
Aaron Cox |
May 15 2003, 04:56 PM
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#11
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
i was just about to suggest metal brake line tubing.....
and on an unrelated note.... im next to Orange County |
rhodyguy |
May 16 2003, 06:08 AM
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#12
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,080 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
another here's what i used. from the tank outlet to the carb inlets. i was really dreading the fuel line issue, but is was very easy. also, i didn't even climb under the front of the car to do it. i cut the fuel sending wires (just below the back edge of the back of the tank) just just add a little extra wire and crimp on new plug in connectors. after you have cut the wires and the tubes/stramp is disconnected, lift up the tank, and reach down with a set of snips and cut the old line between the bottom of the tank and the metal tube it hooks up to. the tank is free at this point. leave enough f.l. on the metal line to give yourself enough to reach the bottom of the tank while it's resting out of the hole. i bet i can now pull an empty tank in 5 min. also i just omitted the small line and plugged the hole in the out board end of the rubber block the lines pass through with a dab of black silicon.
kevin Attached image(s) |
Lawrence |
May 16 2003, 06:14 AM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,661 Joined: 5-February 03 Member No.: 244 Region Association: None |
Rubber straight through, huh? That whole fuel tank thing looks very convienent. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)
How often do you think you'll need to replace the lines? -Rusty |
rhodyguy |
May 16 2003, 06:39 AM
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#14
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,080 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
all the way through. how long do you think the plastic lasted? the line i used is fuel line. just in case you miss it, there is one of those metal bend over tabs mid point in the center tunnel that secures the line. at the rear firewall i got a new grommet to fit the line but the hole was too small in the metal. redrilled to enlarge the hole, deburred and slipped it in. beauty, it shows in one of my past pictures. i wish the camera was at home when i did a # of proceedures. not to say the way i did things were the best, but some options and alternatives to consider.
kevin |
Lawrence |
May 16 2003, 06:45 AM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,661 Joined: 5-February 03 Member No.: 244 Region Association: None |
I remember when I replaced the fuel lines under the tank in the /6.
I left lots of slack in there because I thought it would be good for accessibility. Wrong answer. The slack ended up getting folded over on itself, and I had huge fuel starvation. That that you do, or will... just my experience. -Rusty |
rhodyguy |
May 16 2003, 07:00 AM
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#16
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,080 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
after i placed the line on the hard line i just dropped it to see what would happen.it just fell into a tidy coil, memory from being wound on a spool. we shall see, at least i can pull the tank quick if theres's a problem. 2 gals of gas, no front hood, and no axels til the thing runs.
kevin |
Chris H. |
May 16 2003, 07:40 AM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,030 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Bowlsby's comments on another board have swayed me to the aluminum when I do it later this year.
Hey Bowlsby, did you run them all the way up into the engine compartment like the plastic ones were originally or stop at the firewall? Thanks, Chris H. |
JeffBowlsby |
May 16 2003, 08:15 AM
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#18
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,510 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None |
You know its been about 4 years since I swapped mine...but I wouldn't do it differently. I do check regularly for stress cracks but so far its like being a maytag repairman... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I even ran hard line across the back of the engine bay wall on rubber wrapped clips to eliminate the return rubber line...it cleaned up the engine bay a little.
Thickwall aluminum tubing from the hardware store was inexpensive, easy to bend and quite stout. I only replaced the engine bay lines because my center tunnel lines are still fine. But if my center tunnel lines ever go south, it would be shrink-tube wrapped aluminum for me in there too. I tried the brake line approach...but they dont bend as easily as you'd think and they were pricey. I am surpised that Waynes brake line article is still up....I am 99% sure he does not recommend that approach anymore. PP does not sell the kits like the article alludes to...gee I wonder why...The brass joints are potential leak points. |
SirAndy |
May 16 2003, 12:08 PM
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#19
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,649 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ May 16 2003, 05:08 AM) i cut the fuel sending wires (just below the back edge of the back of the tank) just just add a little extra wire and crimp on new plug in connectors. after you have cut the wires and the tubes/stramp is disconnected, lift up the tank ... aehm, stupid question, but why did you cut the wires ??? why not just unplug at the sending unit ?!?! Andy |
watsonrx13 |
May 16 2003, 05:09 PM
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#20
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
OK Bowlsby, now I’m confused. I’m planning to completely redo the fuel delivery system. I’ll be cleaning the fuel tank, moving the fuel pump to the front trunk and replacing the fuel lines in the center tunnel. I’ve ready the PP tech articles. What do you recommend? Are the articles wrong? If they are wrong, what’s the correct procedure? Between this site and PP, these are the best resources for the 914 and I highly value everyone’s experience and knowledge. BTW, once I complete this process, I’ll post pics and directions.
Note: I’m working on a ’74 2.0l dual Weber 40’s. |
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