Okay... I've seen this debated and hashed over and over...

Replacing the fuel lines in the center tunnel - what should I use? Steel, copper, rubber, OEM plastic?

Anyone know the OD size and length offhand?

-Rusty

These are my thoughts on the topic...

OEM Plastic: I just don't like it.
Stainless steel covered rubber lines: Concerned about them acting like a file in the center tunnle.
Steel: Rust. Nuff said.
Flexible Rubber: Large OD compared to OEM or solid metal.

After researching the options, I'm leaning heavily towards stainless steel tubing to run the length of the tunnel.

Anyone have experience with this option?

Questions... Are you running FI or carbs? You need a return line for FI or a single line for carbs.

No to copper - it will become brittle
No to rubber (otherwise you'll be replacing the lines every few years).
New plastic okay (but why not go with option #4 or #5).
Stainless Steel
Alumimun

Summit racing carriers flexible stainless steel fuel line.

I think you are concerned more about ID than OD. 5/16 ID is fine!

If you put in new lines, especially metal, then you should slip some rubber tubing in the center tunnel to keep the metal lines from rattling around and protect from abrasion.

Also be sure to keep the lines away from the shift rod.

I believe there are metal tabs in the center tunnel to keep the fuel line down.

Regards,

Karl

I'm running carbs with an aftermarket fuel pump... so I'll only need one line.

I like the trick of covering them in the center console. Nor did I think of aluminum instead of SS. I may take a spin to Home Cheapo.

I am concerned about OD, because I don't want to have to hugely open up the holes for the fuel lines.

-Rusty

i used copper lines for my stock fi motor and didn't experienced any problems since 5 years up to now


benno

I use aluminum tubing. Several mail oder parts people sell it. Summit, Keystone, CB etc. It is easy to bend to fit. Get a tubing bender from HD plumbing dept. It is a wire which has been coiled like a compressed spring. One end is larger than the other. It keeps you from kinking the line.

Paul

My question is why replace the lines at all if there is no problem with them? Lots of people seem to want to replace them just to be safe but I've never heard of a failure except for someone damaging the end of the line at the firewall. Even our fearless leader Br@d says he replaces the lines, when necessary, with another factory line from a 30 year donor car.

Mine are very brittle. I recently had my fuel pump out (checking for problems, as advised by Permacr@p tech support), and the lines have become very brittle.

I was being gentle, but I cracked the line removing the hose from the stock line.

The original lines are rapidly approaching 34 years old. It's time for them to go.

Ok, good reason. BTW, I was looking under my '94 Jetta yesterday and noticed that it also uses thick plastic fuel lines. I was thinking that they'd be a good replacement line for a 914. They seem long enough.

There is a good procedure for this on the Pelican web site. They recommend 5/16 and 3/8 steel brake lines. I am in the process of replacing my fuel lines and that is what I will be using. Brake lines should surely be strong enough to handle any fuel pressure that you might need. I will probably cover them with something to keep down any chaffing that might occur. I will be using carbs but will probably replace both fuel lines and block one off. That way it will be there if someone wants to convert back to FI. The Pelican Tech. articles and this web site have helped me a whole lot.
Cheers, Elliot

i was just about to suggest metal brake line tubing.....


and on an unrelated note....
im next to Orange County

another here's what i used. from the tank outlet to the carb inlets. i was really dreading the fuel line issue, but is was very easy. also, i didn't even climb under the front of the car to do it. i cut the fuel sending wires (just below the back edge of the back of the tank) just just add a little extra wire and crimp on new plug in connectors. after you have cut the wires and the tubes/stramp is disconnected, lift up the tank, and reach down with a set of snips and cut the old line between the bottom of the tank and the metal tube it hooks up to. the tank is free at this point. leave enough f.l. on the metal line to give yourself enough to reach the bottom of the tank while it's resting out of the hole. i bet i can now pull an empty tank in 5 min. also i just omitted the small line and plugged the hole in the out board end of the rubber block the lines pass through with a dab of black silicon.

kevin

Rubber straight through, huh? That whole fuel tank thing looks very convienent.

How often do you think you'll need to replace the lines?

-Rusty

all the way through. how long do you think the plastic lasted? the line i used is fuel line. just in case you miss it, there is one of those metal bend over tabs mid point in the center tunnel that secures the line. at the rear firewall i got a new grommet to fit the line but the hole was too small in the metal. redrilled to enlarge the hole, deburred and slipped it in. beauty, it shows in one of my past pictures. i wish the camera was at home when i did a # of proceedures. not to say the way i did things were the best, but some options and alternatives to consider.

kevin

I remember when I replaced the fuel lines under the tank in the /6.

I left lots of slack in there because I thought it would be good for accessibility. Wrong answer. The slack ended up getting folded over on itself, and I had huge fuel starvation.

That that you do, or will... just my experience.

-Rusty

after i placed the line on the hard line i just dropped it to see what would happen.it just fell into a tidy coil, memory from being wound on a spool. we shall see, at least i can pull the tank quick if theres's a problem. 2 gals of gas, no front hood, and no axels til the thing runs.

kevin

Bowlsby's comments on another board have swayed me to the aluminum when I do it later this year.

Hey Bowlsby, did you run them all the way up into the engine compartment like the plastic ones were originally or stop at the firewall?

Thanks,

Chris H.

You know its been about 4 years since I swapped mine...but I wouldn't do it differently. I do check regularly for stress cracks but so far its like being a maytag repairman... I even ran hard line across the back of the engine bay wall on rubber wrapped clips to eliminate the return rubber line...it cleaned up the engine bay a little.

Thickwall aluminum tubing from the hardware store was inexpensive, easy to bend and quite stout. I only replaced the engine bay lines because my center tunnel lines are still fine. But if my center tunnel lines ever go south, it would be shrink-tube wrapped aluminum for me in there too.

I tried the brake line approach...but they dont bend as easily as you'd think and they were pricey. I am surpised that Waynes brake line article is still up....I am 99% sure he does not recommend that approach anymore. PP does not sell the kits like the article alludes to...gee I wonder why...The brass joints are potential leak points.

aehm, stupid question, but why did you cut the wires ???
why not just unplug at the sending unit ?!?!

Andy

OK Bowlsby, now I’m confused. I’m planning to completely redo the fuel delivery system. I’ll be cleaning the fuel tank, moving the fuel pump to the front trunk and replacing the fuel lines in the center tunnel. I’ve ready the PP tech articles. What do you recommend? Are the articles wrong? If they are wrong, what’s the correct procedure? Between this site and PP, these are the best resources for the 914 and I highly value everyone’s experience and knowledge. BTW, once I complete this process, I’ll post pics and directions.

Note: I’m working on a ’74 2.0l dual Weber 40’s.

Couldn't you just use either aluminum or SS tubing (not braided) that comes in a roll from Summit or Jegs and run it through the tunnel and up into the engine bay in one piece just like the plastic ones were? It's referred to as fuel line on the Summit website.

You'd just have to be sure you didn't crimp it when you bent it. There's a special tool you use to bend it I think. Encasing it in rubber or plastic in the tunnel would be wise too. You can buy 5/16 tubing for like $25 a roll.

Chris H.

Waynes article is not wrong...its just I think there are better ways.

Using a compression fit brass fitting as part of the fuel delivery is not preferable...FI fuel is under 30 PSI pressure...a leak is not a good thing.

You're doing carbs, so the pressure is not as dramatic, but a leak of fuel in an engine bay is not acceptable even then.

I would use continuous aluminum tubing...it bends easily, is inexpensive...lightweight...the racers use it.

But in a 914, the fuel lines in the center tunnel should be ok...there is no heat in there for them to become embrittled. But if in your cars case they require replacement, then my vote is for aluminum tubing. Rubber lines easily mate to them.

Bowlsby, thanks for the reply.

i did the wire thing for 2 reasons. why would you ever want to pick up the front end of the car and remove the splash pan to get to the fuel line. for me it's easier to remove the 4 bolts that hold the front hood on, set it aside, UNPLUG the sending lines. remove the clamp, and its out. you can stand in the front trunk. i didn't want to tear the top of the fuel tank apart just to undo the wires. so that's the wire story. like i said, little on my car is "correct". there was a white tape line on the wire bundle above the green one. maybe a little easier, works for me.

kevin

embrittled? Is that really a word, or did you just make that up? When I saw it I was disemcorulated!