Down In A Blaze Of Unglory - 914s on FIRE!, It can be pretty common, unfortunately. What causes the 914 to catch fire so easily, how to prevent it from happening and what to do if it does happen Options

[tumamilhem]

Has this ever happened to you?





Video of car on fire: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151125433882341


This is an unfortunate, serious reality and real danger for us 914 owners that tragically happens all too often. But why and how can it be prevented?

I'd like to propose three talking points that could help educate other 914 owners to make necessary precautions to preserve their cars - and their lives:


1. What causes fires in the 914 and why are they so common?

2. What precautions may be done to prevent a 914 from catching fire?

3. If your 914 does catch fire, should you try to put it out or should you stay away in case of an explosion?

[tumamilhem]

I'll go first.

Fortunately, this has never happened to me. And I pray it never will. But what can be done to insure that from happening?

I understand that it is common for battery acid to drip onto the fuel lines below, that are made of plastic. The fuel lines are easily eaten by the acid and hold about 30 lbs. of pressure, making the fuel spray quickly onto the heaters, etc. and quickly igniting and spreading.

How can this be prevented? Can the fuel lines be coated or housed in something that the acid will not damage? Is there an acid-resistant replacement? Can an acid-resistant material line encase the battery (or at least on the tray) to prevent leakage?

Also, is it possible for a 914 to catch fire while parked (not turned on)? Say, parked on the street or God forbid, sitting in your garage?

[billh1963]

Wonder how much he wants for those fuchs? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[tumamilhem]

Oh that's just wrong. :/
The guy said he had just bought this car too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

[zymurgist]

The plastic fuel lines in the tunnel are 40 years old. If you ever have to remove the originals, don't put them back! There are vendors selling stainless steel fuel lines that go through the center tunnel. Also, if you still have fuel injection, be sure to get FI rated hose because of the higher fuel pressure than that used by carbureted engines.

[tumamilhem]

Where can I find these stainless fuel lines and hoses should I need to have them replaced?

[JawjaPorsche]

Pelican Parts sells them.

Where can I find these stainless fuel lines and hoses should I need to have them replaced?

[Cairo94507]

Tangerine racing: http://tangerineracing.com/stainlessFuelLines.htm

I got my SS fuel line from them and they are very nice. Cheapest insurance you can buy for your car. I am also adding a basic fire suppression system into the build of my car for a little added safety.

[tumamilhem]

What is a basic fire suppression system? Where can it be found and how to install?

Thank you guys for all of your input! Any other reasons a 914 may catch fire or how to prevent?

[nathansnathan]

This is a problem for vw buses also, which don't have the plastic lines.

I would say the problem is fuel filters with worm-drive clamps dangling from braided line right next to the coil or plug wires.

I had an inlet banjo come loose on a set of dells, dripping fuel. I actually shorted out the electric fuel pump for the carbs, but no fire.

What you need to start a fire I think is full on spray going onto a sparkplug wire or the coil.

Prevention would include keeping fuel filters out of the engine compartment, using the right clamps, securing fuel lines with zip ties, and running ethanol rated 30R9 lines, besides just replacing the plastic lines in the tunnel.

[tumamilhem]

This is a problem for vw buses also, which don't have the plastic lines.

I would say the problem is fuel filters with worm-drive clamps dangling from braided line right next to the coil or plug wires.

I had an inlet banjo come loose on a set of dells, dripping fuel. I actually shorted out the electric fuel pump for the carbs, but no fire.

What you need to start a fire I think is full on spray going onto a sparkplug wire or the coil.

Prevention would include keeping fuel filters out of the engine compartment, using the right clamps, securing fuel lines with zip ties, and running ethanol rated 30R9 lines, besides just replacing the plastic lines in the tunnel.

Would these ethanol rated 30R9 lines be the same thing as the SS steel lines?

What kind of clamps should be used (and for what)?

What purpose does sip tying the fuel lines serve?

I'm not so mechanically inclined as you guys, so I'm trying to learn and understand to prevent this from happening.

Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[zymurgist]

Tangerine racing: http://tangerineracing.com/stainlessFuelLines.htm

I got my SS fuel line from them and they are very nice. Cheapest insurance you can buy for your car. I am also adding a basic fire suppression system into the build of my car for a little added safety.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I've seen Chris's parts and they look nice and easy. Compared to fabbing your own from truck brake lines, that is. (Which is what I did just before the SS lines came on the market.)

[Cap'n Krusty]

This has been a problem since the cars came onto the market. Bad hoses, incorrect hose and/or hose inner diameter, wrong hose clamps. It's virtually NEVER the plastic lines. We do SERVICES, NOT "tune-ups! We check for stuff like that every time the car is in. That's always been my practice, and any good shop will do the same. Fuel fires can be prevented by frequent inspections by both the owner and/or the shop he/she takes the car to for repairs.

The Cap'n

[jimkelly]

my understanding is that when magnesium catches fire - its a bitch to put out.

so my understanding si the problem may start with leak in fuel lines but quickly turn to magnesium BURNING OUT OF CONTROL.

[Johny Blackstain]

Magnesium can burn under water so if it lights there's no putting it out as far as i know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[boogie_man]

I'm not sure but, did you see the car lurching forward, then backward?
Doesn't look like the firefighters did that.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[nathansnathan]

This is a problem for vw buses also, which don't have the plastic lines.

I would say the problem is fuel filters with worm-drive clamps dangling from braided line right next to the coil or plug wires.

I had an inlet banjo come loose on a set of dells, dripping fuel. I actually shorted out the electric fuel pump for the carbs, but no fire.

What you need to start a fire I think is full on spray going onto a sparkplug wire or the coil.

Prevention would include keeping fuel filters out of the engine compartment, using the right clamps, securing fuel lines with zip ties, and running ethanol rated 30R9 lines, besides just replacing the plastic lines in the tunnel.

Would these ethanol rated 30R9 lines be the same thing as the SS steel lines?

What kind of clamps should be used (and for what)?

What purpose does sip tying the fuel lines serve?

I'm not so mechanically inclined as you guys, so I'm trying to learn and understand to prevent this from happening.

Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The deal is that ethanol is like alcohol and will dry out hoses. 30R9 is an SAE rating for fuel hose that has a silicone-like 'flouroelastomer' lining that is resistant. It used to be blue on the inside but it's all just black now, looks like non braided line, so you have to look for 30R9 to be printed - it is for high pressure and it is expensive. You will only find it in english sizes since ethanol is an american problem.

The deal with the clamps is that the slots that worm drive (normal) hose clamps use will bite int the hose ends and make the drying cracking worse there at the ends, that is where they break, fuel lines. Proper clamps don't have as much range of adjustment. The old vw ones have a flange to protect the edges, mercedes ones are alright too. The difference is the slots all the way around.

About zip ties, it is the flopping around/moving that will cause the breaking once the clamps and the ethanol have made the lines brittle.

The worst situation to have is braided line, not zip tied, with regular hose clamps, the fuel filter flopping about right by the coil.

[Cairo94507]

I have yet to locate the system that will be installed in my car. I remember looking about a year ago but figured I would wait until we were closer to the time we actually needed it. I think $500 can buy a basic system with a few nozzles to locate in the engine compartment.

[tumamilhem]

Magnesium can burn under water so if it lights there's no putting it out as far as i know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

What psrts are magnesuim that will cstch fire?

[tumamilhem]

This is a problem for vw buses also, which don't have the plastic lines.

I would say the problem is fuel filters with worm-drive clamps dangling from braided line right next to the coil or plug wires.

I had an inlet banjo come loose on a set of dells, dripping fuel. I actually shorted out the electric fuel pump for the carbs, but no fire.

What you need to start a fire I think is full on spray going onto a sparkplug wire or the coil.

Prevention would include keeping fuel filters out of the engine compartment, using the right clamps, securing fuel lines with zip ties, and running ethanol rated 30R9 lines, besides just replacing the plastic lines in the tunnel.

Would these ethanol rated 30R9 lines be the same thing as the SS steel lines?

What kind of clamps should be used (and for what)?

What purpose does sip tying the fuel lines serve?

I'm not so mechanically inclined as you guys, so I'm trying to learn and understand to prevent this from happening.

Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The deal is that ethanol is like alcohol and will dry out hoses. 30R9 is an SAE rating for fuel hose that has a silicone-like 'flouroelastomer' lining that is resistant. It used to be blue on the inside but it's all just black now, looks like non braided line, so you have to look for 30R9 to be printed - it is for high pressure and it is expensive. You will only find it in english sizes since ethanol is an american problem.

The deal with the clamps is that the slots that worm drive (normal) hose clamps use will bite int the hose ends and make the drying cracking worse there at the ends, that is where they break, fuel lines. Proper clamps don't have as much range of adjustment. The old vw ones have a flange to protect the edges, mercedes ones are alright too. The difference is the slots all the way around.

About zip ties, it is the flopping around/moving that will cause the breaking once the clamps and the ethanol have made the lines brittle.

The worst situation to have is braided line, not zip tied, with regular hose clamps, the fuel filter flopping about right by the coil.

So don't use steel braided line, use 30R9 lines instead? What do they cost and whete can they bevfound?

What kind of hoses and clamps should be used and where can they be found?