New air compressor, copper or iron pipe Options

[Harpo]

Good evening everyone

For those of you with large compressors what kind of lines are you running through your garage?

Thanks

David

[rudedude]

I put 3/4" pvc in when I did mine fully intending to put in cast iron in the near future. That was like 8 years ago and I've never had any issues. I put cast iron at the ends to mount gauges and filters and secure to wall. It was fast and cheap.

[quadracerx]

I was thinking about using this:

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/store/shop...mp;cat=Rapidair

But havent done it yet...most every review seems to be positive and it seems simple to put in...

Just a thought...

Steve

[Dr Evil]

PVC, no need for metal.

[914GT]

3/4"copper. Metal pipe helps condense out moisture.

[yp914]

I am getting ready to do the same thing in my basement garage. I would definitely not go with metal pipe. It will rust from condensation in the line. It may take a while but it will happen, even with galv pipe. Copper pipe is an option except for the cost. PVC in my opinion is the best and most cost effective option. Simple to install readily available. Some people suggest PVC can't handle the PSI of a compressor but if you check the specs on PVC, you will see that it will the pressure.
My question is about sound insulation. I am putting my compressor in a closet and want to insulate the closet to keep the noise down. Any suggestions?

[mrbubblehead]

copper. super easy to make changes and way safer than pvc....

[IronHillRestorations]

Plastic is much easier and cheaper, as long as you don't have a big powerful compressor. Just make sure you use at least schedule 40.

Iron is better for moisture control and more durable, and the pro's choice. The best would be galvanized but that's really pricey. I've never seen copper used much at all.

[shuie]

I just completed hooking up a 60 gallon unit with 1/2" black iron throughout my garage. It probably wasn't worth the expense and hassle for what I am doing but it is done and seems to work well. I get to spray some primer with the system for the first time this week so hopefully it was worth the effort.

If I ever have to start a project like this over I will probably do it in PVC. The black iron pipe from lowes was a PITA to work with. I had a couple of leaky fittings and had the piping system apart 3 different times before finally getting everything sealed properly.

I would also build a compressor house outside of the garage for the unit if I do this again. Another thing I would like to do is route the drain lines through the wall and out of the garage. I still need a better & more accessible drain on the compressor tank, too.

Here are a few quick pics of the lines and my drops..

60 gallon single stage compressor, unregulated outlet for tires, kids soccer ball, etc..

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/lh3.googleusercontent.com-2075-1355184608.1.JPG)

1st regulated drop over workbench & near the front of the car.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/lh5.googleusercontent.com-2075-1355184610.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/lh3.googleusercontent.com-2075-1355184635.1.JPG)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/lh3.googleusercontent.com-2075-1355184610.3.JPG)

2nd regulated drop on the other end of the car.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/lh3.googleusercontent.com-2075-1355184610.4.jpg)

[wingnut86]

I went black steel pipe - Chinese cast iron basically. Hard to find good American made black pipe these days. If I had known how many junctions, 45s and 90° pieces were going to be defective, I would have installed copper.

It's tricky down South with the high heat and humidity. If it's in a garage, with great airflow and somewhere to draw cool air from, expect temps to hover between 90° to 105° under cover. You need the metal for the condensation, or at least long vertical to horizontal runs with drains as often as feasible to purge air and the water (large compressors). I have multiple driers and filters and a 2' long by 2' wide silicone drier/stack that is a basic steel tube with beads for absorption at my last stage before my dry air. And, I still have another drier bolted to the side of my Skat Blaster (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I like the new 3/4 RapidAir, looks solid. Michigan is different in weather, humidity, etc., so my setup is a stretch for you David. I'd give my good car away for a temperature controlled garage with exhaust vacuums and a DRYer compressed air route...

We can dream (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[biosurfer1]

I would never use PVC for air compressor lines. At 40 psi, you're fine but if you run it at 100 psi like most people, you run a much higher risk of fracture. I know it's not common but I've seen the aftermath of PVC pipe blowing apart (trying to find the garagejournal.com thread) and there were shards sticking half way through drywall. Knowing my family walks through the garage, not to mention myself, an seeing those pictures makes it worth the extra cost to run hard lines.

[76-914]

3/4 pvc is certainly strong enough to handle 125psi but the issue is with how the pipe explodes, if you will. when blk, galv or copper pipe/ftg's break it doesn't propel flying shrapnel like pvc can and does. i'll bet Rick or one of the other ins adjuster's here can tell some stories. condensation is going to happen no matter what pipe material is used. most importantly, installation is the key. vertical drops should have a 6" drip leg with a hose bibb on the end to drain. air outlet should come from a tee ftg at least 6" above the end of the drip leg. all horizontal lines should be installed with enough slope as to allow for proper drainage back to the vertical drop preceding it. in other words don't give the pipe a place to trap the water. if you do use pvc do not expose it to sunlight as UV rays deteriorate the material and know that the psi ratings for pvc aren't the same at 30F as they are at 70F. slap a piece of pvc pipe against a brick on a freezing day.

[mrbubblehead]

Plastic is much easier and cheaper, as long as you don't have a big powerful compressor. Just make sure you use at least schedule 40.

Iron is better for moisture control and more durable, and the pro's choice. The best would be galvanized but that's really pricey. I've never seen copper used much at all.

i have seen pvc get brittle and explode in a guys face at work. not pretty. galvanized isnt recommended because over time it flakes off inside and plugs your filters. personally i would never use pvc for a permanent installation. copper and black iron (natural gas type) are recommended. black iron is probly the best. its extremely durable. but a real pain in the ass because it has to be cut and threaded and then spun together. and that makes changes even more of a pain in the ass. thats why i went with copper. easy to install. its durable enuff for a home garage. and it makes changes a snap. but these are all just my opinion.

that said, i have a buddy who ran his home system in pvc schedule 40. and has had no problems. i think it is a ticking time bomb. literally.

i have maybe 200 dollars into my system so far and i am useing blu copper from home depot. i am doing my system in stages. i have the back bone in and 2 drops so far. one more drop for my blaster cabinet and its finished. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[Dr Evil]

I have been running my 80 gal through sc40 PVC at upwards of 110psi with no issues.

[cary]

I'll make it even more confusing. I ran Schedule 40 PVC overhead from the compressor. But I converted to black pipe on all the pipe going down to the outlets.
I have a switch for the compressor at the door. I turn it off when I leave. So its only charged up while I'm there.

[VaccaRabite]

I'll make it even more confusing. I ran Schedule 40 PVC overhead from the compressor. But I converted to black pipe on all the pipe going down to the outlets.
I have a switch for the compressor at the door. I turn it off when I leave. So its only charged up while I'm there.

Unless you drain the compressor or your pipes leak or your regulator is at the compressor and not at the drop the pipes are charged all the time.

Zach

[edwin]

Our shed at home is done with copper
I'm glad because I had a teacher at school go liked having fun blowing stuff up an watched a small piece of pvc fracture under working pressure. Small scratches etc are nasty

[GaroldShaffer]

I was thinking about using this:

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/store/shop...mp;cat=Rapidair

But havent done it yet...most every review seems to be positive and it seems simple to put in...

Just a thought...

Steve

I have that in my garage works just fine with my big compressor. Easy to install.

[Zimms]

I went with aluminum from Garage Pak Garage Pak. We used it in a shop large machine shop I worked at (36+Swiss machines), never had an issue, and went from having a mess of conduit and hours to add a drop, to minutes with tidy looking blue lines.

It was not the cheapest, and it's overkill for my use, but it is easy in every sense. Easy to put up, easy to add drops, and easy to move if you end up going anywhere. I moved everything from my garage to a shop and was glad I had it. The compressor I have is a 5 hp, 2 stage with an 80 gallon tank.

[Mark Henry]

I still have to do this and it will be black pipe because I run at 160lbs. I had black pipe all through my old shop and most of it is here waiting to go up.

The big thing if you run black pipe is you are suppose to have a drip leg at every drop. Not only water collects in the drip leg but so does any flakes of rust.
BTW although it will just have a cap, a drip leg is code on all gas line black pipe drops. Go look in your basement if you have gas.

Not my pic but a good image of a black pipe drip leg:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.2002tii-restoration.org-26-1355145733.1.jpg)