Good evening everyone

For those of you with large compressors what kind of lines are you running through your garage?

Thanks

David

I put 3/4" pvc in when I did mine fully intending to put in cast iron in the near future. That was like 8 years ago and I've never had any issues. I put cast iron at the ends to mount gauges and filters and secure to wall. It was fast and cheap.

I was thinking about using this:

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/store/shop...mp;cat=Rapidair

But havent done it yet...most every review seems to be positive and it seems simple to put in...

Just a thought...

Steve

PVC, no need for metal.

3/4"copper. Metal pipe helps condense out moisture.

I am getting ready to do the same thing in my basement garage. I would definitely not go with metal pipe. It will rust from condensation in the line. It may take a while but it will happen, even with galv pipe. Copper pipe is an option except for the cost. PVC in my opinion is the best and most cost effective option. Simple to install readily available. Some people suggest PVC can't handle the PSI of a compressor but if you check the specs on PVC, you will see that it will the pressure.
My question is about sound insulation. I am putting my compressor in a closet and want to insulate the closet to keep the noise down. Any suggestions?

copper. super easy to make changes and way safer than pvc....

Plastic is much easier and cheaper, as long as you don't have a big powerful compressor. Just make sure you use at least schedule 40.

Iron is better for moisture control and more durable, and the pro's choice. The best would be galvanized but that's really pricey. I've never seen copper used much at all.

I just completed hooking up a 60 gallon unit with 1/2" black iron throughout my garage. It probably wasn't worth the expense and hassle for what I am doing but it is done and seems to work well. I get to spray some primer with the system for the first time this week so hopefully it was worth the effort.

If I ever have to start a project like this over I will probably do it in PVC. The black iron pipe from lowes was a PITA to work with. I had a couple of leaky fittings and had the piping system apart 3 different times before finally getting everything sealed properly.

I would also build a compressor house outside of the garage for the unit if I do this again. Another thing I would like to do is route the drain lines through the wall and out of the garage. I still need a better & more accessible drain on the compressor tank, too.

Here are a few quick pics of the lines and my drops..

60 gallon single stage compressor, unregulated outlet for tires, kids soccer ball, etc..



1st regulated drop over workbench & near the front of the car.







2nd regulated drop on the other end of the car.

I went black steel pipe - Chinese cast iron basically. Hard to find good American made black pipe these days. If I had known how many junctions, 45s and 90° pieces were going to be defective, I would have installed copper.

It's tricky down South with the high heat and humidity. If it's in a garage, with great airflow and somewhere to draw cool air from, expect temps to hover between 90° to 105° under cover. You need the metal for the condensation, or at least long vertical to horizontal runs with drains as often as feasible to purge air and the water (large compressors). I have multiple driers and filters and a 2' long by 2' wide silicone drier/stack that is a basic steel tube with beads for absorption at my last stage before my dry air. And, I still have another drier bolted to the side of my Skat Blaster

I like the new 3/4 RapidAir, looks solid. Michigan is different in weather, humidity, etc., so my setup is a stretch for you David. I'd give my good car away for a temperature controlled garage with exhaust vacuums and a DRYer compressed air route...

We can dream

I would never use PVC for air compressor lines. At 40 psi, you're fine but if you run it at 100 psi like most people, you run a much higher risk of fracture. I know it's not common but I've seen the aftermath of PVC pipe blowing apart (trying to find the garagejournal.com thread) and there were shards sticking half way through drywall. Knowing my family walks through the garage, not to mention myself, an seeing those pictures makes it worth the extra cost to run hard lines.

3/4 pvc is certainly strong enough to handle 125psi but the issue is with how the pipe explodes, if you will. when blk, galv or copper pipe/ftg's break it doesn't propel flying shrapnel like pvc can and does. i'll bet Rick or one of the other ins adjuster's here can tell some stories. condensation is going to happen no matter what pipe material is used. most importantly, installation is the key. vertical drops should have a 6" drip leg with a hose bibb on the end to drain. air outlet should come from a tee ftg at least 6" above the end of the drip leg. all horizontal lines should be installed with enough slope as to allow for proper drainage back to the vertical drop preceding it. in other words don't give the pipe a place to trap the water. if you do use pvc do not expose it to sunlight as UV rays deteriorate the material and know that the psi ratings for pvc aren't the same at 30F as they are at 70F. slap a piece of pvc pipe against a brick on a freezing day.

i have seen pvc get brittle and explode in a guys face at work. not pretty. galvanized isnt recommended because over time it flakes off inside and plugs your filters. personally i would never use pvc for a permanent installation. copper and black iron (natural gas type) are recommended. black iron is probly the best. its extremely durable. but a real pain in the ass because it has to be cut and threaded and then spun together. and that makes changes even more of a pain in the ass. thats why i went with copper. easy to install. its durable enuff for a home garage. and it makes changes a snap. but these are all just my opinion.

that said, i have a buddy who ran his home system in pvc schedule 40. and has had no problems. i think it is a ticking time bomb. literally.

i have maybe 200 dollars into my system so far and i am useing blu copper from home depot. i am doing my system in stages. i have the back bone in and 2 drops so far. one more drop for my blaster cabinet and its finished.

I have been running my 80 gal through sc40 PVC at upwards of 110psi with no issues.

I'll make it even more confusing. I ran Schedule 40 PVC overhead from the compressor. But I converted to black pipe on all the pipe going down to the outlets.
I have a switch for the compressor at the door. I turn it off when I leave. So its only charged up while I'm there.

Unless you drain the compressor or your pipes leak or your regulator is at the compressor and not at the drop the pipes are charged all the time.

Zach

Our shed at home is done with copper
I'm glad because I had a teacher at school go liked having fun blowing stuff up an watched a small piece of pvc fracture under working pressure. Small scratches etc are nasty

I have that in my garage works just fine with my big compressor. Easy to install.

I went with aluminum from Garage Pak Garage Pak. We used it in a shop large machine shop I worked at (36+Swiss machines), never had an issue, and went from having a mess of conduit and hours to add a drop, to minutes with tidy looking blue lines.

It was not the cheapest, and it's overkill for my use, but it is easy in every sense. Easy to put up, easy to add drops, and easy to move if you end up going anywhere. I moved everything from my garage to a shop and was glad I had it. The compressor I have is a 5 hp, 2 stage with an 80 gallon tank.

I still have to do this and it will be black pipe because I run at 160lbs. I had black pipe all through my old shop and most of it is here waiting to go up.

The big thing if you run black pipe is you are suppose to have a drip leg at every drop. Not only water collects in the drip leg but so does any flakes of rust.
BTW although it will just have a cap, a drip leg is code on all gas line black pipe drops. Go look in your basement if you have gas.

Not my pic but a good image of a black pipe drip leg:

I used PEX and no issues yet

Zach, forgot to mention that ..................
It leaks off in two days. Being that its a space I rent I didn't try to find every leak. Most of the leaks I did find are where the steel and PVC meet.

schedule 80. higher temps and operating pressures. www.engineeringtoolbox.com specs everything out quite nicely.

Copper..or soft plastic line.

PVC will handle the pressure, the issue with PVC is unplanned release of stored energy. When it lets go it turns in to a plastic IED. Copper or pipe just simply leak when punctured.

Really? Have any pics of your setup? I bet PEX wouldn't shatter like pvc.

I used standard rubber air hoses stapled to the wall.
Made up a setup of cast pipe fitting for the regulator, drier, and oiler.

I have three hoses hanging from the ceiling in strategic locations.

I tried copper, but it was expensive and did not work for me.

I only run it when I am using it.
I drain everything, lines included when I am done.
We have freesing temps here, so I blast out the lines when draining to ensure they dont freeze up.


Rich

As an FYI, here is an OSHA bulletin from several years ago about PVC pipe used in compressed air applications.

http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

I used black pipe on mine. I have access to a pipe machine for cutting and threading so it was an easy choice for me, having done gas piping for many years in the HVAC business. Definitely use USA fittings if you can find them. Most plumbing supply houses here offer either, and the Chinese fittings always leak more.

High Density Polyethylene (HDPE)

I agree with Kent's professional assessment, with a slight edit, being as I am also a Plumber who has install 1000's of feet of airline of which all have been in Black malleable iron or copper.
I think the best CSOB method maybe by the use of pex. it would not be a good looking install due to the semi ridged material, but it does have a pressure rating of 160lbs at 74 degree's Fahrenheit. and with the cross stitching in the piping the chance of fragments flying would seem to be almost eliminated. YMMV

pex spec sheet

black iron 3/4 gas pipe.

I installed 3 outlets and about 120ft of it last year
it is absolutely wonderful to have air available at different points of the garage.

Summit Racing sells something that is very similar to PEX specifically for use as air lines. Its rated at 150 PSI. I can't find it on their site now, but they also used to have a really good tech article with everything you need to buy and how to set it all up.

I went with 3/4" copper running along the garage ceiling with three drops and ball valves at each drop to drain water. I put in 80 feet total, and certainly could have saved a bunch of $$ using PVC, but why risk injury? I'm a CSOB, but I'm not willing to risk losing my eyesight if/when the PVC shatters...

I'm really a CSOB. I just use extension hoses. Not pretty, but I can drag the hoses anywhere I need.

My brother installed a 60 gal compressor in a sound-proofed closet, and it over heats a lot. Shuts down for more than a half hour before the thermo-switch allows it to start up again ... and this is with convection air vents and an exhaust fan in the closet

I just have a 25' hose attached at the dryer right on the compressor. I've used my 80 gallon 7hp compressor like that for 15 years.