New air compressor, copper or iron pipe Options

[mhuber45]

I used PEX and no issues yet

[cary]

Zach, forgot to mention that ..................
It leaks off in two days. Being that its a space I rent I didn't try to find every leak. Most of the leaks I did find are where the steel and PVC meet.

I'll make it even more confusing. I ran Schedule 40 PVC overhead from the compressor. But I converted to black pipe on all the pipe going down to the outlets.
I have a switch for the compressor at the door. I turn it off when I leave. So its only charged up while I'm there.

Unless you drain the compressor or your pipes leak or your regulator is at the compressor and not at the drop the pipes are charged all the time.

Zach

[rhodyguy]

schedule 80. higher temps and operating pressures. www.engineeringtoolbox.com specs everything out quite nicely.

[underthetire]

Copper..or soft plastic line.

PVC will handle the pressure, the issue with PVC is unplanned release of stored energy. When it lets go it turns in to a plastic IED. Copper or pipe just simply leak when punctured.

[Gint]

I used PEX and no issues yet

Really? Have any pics of your setup? I bet PEX wouldn't shatter like pvc.

[r_towle]

I used standard rubber air hoses stapled to the wall.
Made up a setup of cast pipe fitting for the regulator, drier, and oiler.

I have three hoses hanging from the ceiling in strategic locations.

I tried copper, but it was expensive and did not work for me.

I only run it when I am using it.
I drain everything, lines included when I am done.
We have freesing temps here, so I blast out the lines when draining to ensure they dont freeze up.


Rich

[914GT]

As an FYI, here is an OSHA bulletin from several years ago about PVC pipe used in compressed air applications.

http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

[charlesmac]

I used black pipe on mine. I have access to a pipe machine for cutting and threading so it was an easy choice for me, having done gas piping for many years in the HVAC business. Definitely use USA fittings if you can find them. Most plumbing supply houses here offer either, and the Chinese fittings always leak more.

[zonedoubt]

High Density Polyethylene (HDPE)

[G e o r g e]

3/4 Sch 40 or 80 pvc is certainly strong enough to handle 125psi but the issue is with how the pipe explodes, if you will. when blk, galv or copper pipe/ftg's break it doesn't propel flying shrapnel like pvc can and does. i'll bet Rick or one of the other ins adjuster's here can tell some stories. condensation is going to happen no matter what pipe material is used. most importantly, installation is the key. vertical drops should have a 6" drip leg with a hose bibb on the end to drain. air outlet should come from a tee ftg at least 6" above the end of the drip leg. all horizontal lines should be installed with enough slope as to allow for proper drainage back to the vertical drop preceding it. in other words don't give the pipe a place to trap the water. if you do use pvc do not expose it to sunlight as UV rays deteriorate the material and know that the psi ratings for pvc aren't the same at 30F as they are at 70F. slap a piece of pvc pipe against a brick on a freezing day.

I agree with Kent's professional assessment, with a slight edit, being as I am also a Plumber who has install 1000's of feet of airline of which all have been in Black malleable iron or copper.
I think the best CSOB method maybe by the use of pex. it would not be a good looking install due to the semi ridged material, but it does have a pressure rating of 160lbs at 74 degree's Fahrenheit. and with the cross stitching in the piping the chance of fragments flying would seem to be almost eliminated. YMMV

pex spec sheet

[brant]

black iron 3/4 gas pipe.

I installed 3 outlets and about 120ft of it last year
it is absolutely wonderful to have air available at different points of the garage.

[shuie]

Summit Racing sells something that is very similar to PEX specifically for use as air lines. Its rated at 150 PSI. I can't find it on their site now, but they also used to have a really good tech article with everything you need to buy and how to set it all up.

[strawman]

I went with 3/4" copper running along the garage ceiling with three drops and ball valves at each drop to drain water. I put in 80 feet total, and certainly could have saved a bunch of $$ using PVC, but why risk injury? I'm a CSOB, but I'm not willing to risk losing my eyesight if/when the PVC shatters...

[mrbubblehead]

I went with 3/4" copper running along the garage ceiling with three drops and ball valves at each drop to drain water. I put in 80 feet total, and certainly could have saved a bunch of $$ using PVC, but why risk injury? I'm a CSOB, but I'm not willing to risk losing my eyesight if/when the PVC shatters...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[euro911]

I'm really a CSOB. I just use extension hoses. Not pretty, but I can drag the hoses anywhere I need.

My brother installed a 60 gal compressor in a sound-proofed closet, and it over heats a lot. Shuts down for more than a half hour before the thermo-switch allows it to start up again ... and this is with convection air vents and an exhaust fan in the closet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Gint]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I just have a 25' hose attached at the dryer right on the compressor. I've used my 80 gallon 7hp compressor like that for 15 years.