How did you learn to TIG weld?, Post your tips and stories. Options

[FourBlades]

I have been thinking about learning to TIG weld for a few years and took the plunge.

I bought the Eastwood AC/DC unit and have been playing with it for a few weeks.



I did all the obvious learning stuff, watching you tube videos, reading about it.

I like WeldingTipsAndTricks.com videos.

At first I just could not see what was going on well enough so I bought a 3x magnifier for my helmet. I also had a lot of trouble with fogging so I got some FogTech drops which completely stopped the fogging. These tips made it a lot easier to see the arc and the puddle.

Now if I could just stop touching the tungsten to the puddle it would be nice.

I'd like to be able to TIG thin metal to limit heat input, do good roll bar welding, and make stuff from aluminum. I know this will take a lot of time and practice.

What tips really helped you, what practice exercises did you do, what war stories do you have?

Thanks,

John

[stugray]

Some quick tips for you:

To learn control of the arc, you want a pedal start arc. Scratch start works for most of what we need, but is not the perfect thing to learn with.
I do not trust the electronic welding filters that turn dark once you strike the arc. Learn to use with the basics, not the "bling".
If you are doing really well, you can weld two aluminum cans (start with steel) and weld them end to end. If you can master that, you can do rusty steel exhaust pipe ;-)

Tig is all about laying down a stack of dimes as that is what the weld should look like once you get the hang of it.

For welding aluminum, you really want a High frequency tig with a water cooled tig torch jacket. You can get by with the basics, but it will never look perfect and will always need grinding.
I have a MIG that can do structural Al., but it is not always pretty....

Stu

[Elliot Cannon]

You'll get real good at sharpening the tungsten rods. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I have a dedicated grinder for that. I put the tungsten rod in a cordless drill and turn it slowly while sharpening it on the grinding wheel. If you have done a lot of oxy acetylene welding, it amounts to just about the same thing except your using an arc to make the puddle with. It takes a LOT of practice. (Speaking for myself of course) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Which reminds me, I need to get out in the garage and do some of that. My goal is to be able to TIG weld upside down. Maybe I'm aiming a little too high. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
Cheers, Elliot

[McMark]

Since my first exposure to welding was OxyAcetelene, it made sense. IMHO, forget stack of dimes, forget zig-zag, and C shaped sweeps. Forget push ahead and the pull back while feeding rod. I learned by just doing what works. Find some 16g steel to start on because the 18 & 22g steel on a 914 is too thin to learn on. Hold two pieces right butted up against each other with ViceGrips and practice getting those pieces to flow together without filler rod. It won't work if there is any gap, but this will teach you how to move you foot and how to move your torch. Then do the same process with a 1/16" gap and start using filler rod.

You don't need to learn technical processes, you just need to build muscle memory and unconscious recognition of what you're seeing. Everything that happens while welding happens faster than you can consciously think. So time spent under the helmet is the only good first step. It's like learning a musical instrument. It's gonna sound like shit for a few months. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Elliot Cannon]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Yeah. That's pretty much what I meant to say. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[FourBlades]

Since my first exposure to welding was OxyAcetelene, it made sense. IMHO, forget stack of dimes, forget zig-zag, and C shaped sweeps. Forget push ahead and the pull back while feeding rod. I learned by just doing what works. Find some 16g steel to start on because the 18 & 22g steel on a 914 is too thin to learn on. Hold two pieces right butted up against each other with ViceGrips and practice getting those pieces to flow together without filler rod. It won't work if there is any gap, but this will teach you how to move you foot and how to move your torch. Then do the same process with a 1/16" gap and start using filler rod.

You don't need to learn technical processes, you just need to build muscle memory and unconscious recognition of what you're seeing. Everything that happens while welding happens faster than you can consciously think. So time spent under the helmet is the only good first step. It's like learning a musical instrument. It's gonna sound like shit for a few months. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Thanks Mark, the whole stack dimes is really intimidating, my beads look more like piles of bird guano. Should I use a copper backing plate for the butt welds? So far all the joints I have made in anything less than 14 guage turn into holes that just keep getting bigger..

John

[McMark]

No copper. No filler rod. You'll have some problems with the welder though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) on my Miller I can adjust the peak power, then the pedal moves through that range. So if I set it to 100A then half pedal is 50A. If I set the knob to 150 then half pedal is 75. On yours full pedal is full power and the only way to get low power is to move the pedal less. That's gonna be working against you, sorry to say. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[nathansnathan]

Some things to note, you should hold the electrode in your bare hands when grinding it as not to ever let it get too hot. If it is too hot to hold it will oxidize/discolor. Aluminum especially will be very temperamental about contamination.

About backing the a butt weld, copper flashing is ideal or aluminum backing for steel will work but may contaminate some; backing with steel for aluminum. Backing a weld certainly makes it easier. You would have to back aluminum unless you were back purging.

From my understanding, the Eastwood tig is all on or off? -that would be pretty tough to work.

Everything has to be very clean with tig, more so than mig welding. You hit some rust and it might explode actually, like blow up the electrode. You really have to clean for tig, the hand held wire brush, as it cools, before you weld, wire brush like mad.

The whole "stack of dimes" should be thought of as a means rather than an end. You move the puddle across and that is the pattern it leaves when you do it right. By 'move' I mean that you draw it over with heat. That the metal/puddle will go toward the heat is key.

[FourBlades]

Thanks folks!

I am using the foot pedal to start and control the heat.

It has a knob on the pedal which is supposed to set the maximum amps with the pedal fully depressed. It does seem to make a big difference what I set it to.

You can see the unit does a high frequency start with a long thin arc and humming sound before the main arc comes on. I try to never touch the electrode to the metal but that seems to be my downfall right now.

I will keep at it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

John

[scotty b]

I'm tigging 1/4 on a 911 right now. this is the fitup. Forget about the stack of dimes on sheet metal. You'll need to get good at fusion for 20 gauge stuff. I also buy .035 tig wire. You may have to order it as it is not a big seller, but it is a lot better than trying to strighten mig wire like I used to do

[scotty b]

also starrt out with some scrap working on your puddle, then try fusing. Once you can fuse the two pieces together without filler, then start diping the rod.

[SUNAB914]

diping the rod

That's what Doc Evil said. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[FourBlades]

Thanks Scotty!

So really tight fit up is important, which makes sense.

Do you start the puddle on one side then move across the joint to fuse the sides together or do you start in the middle of the joint?

When I try to start in the middle of the joint, all I end up with is a hole. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

John

[IronHillRestorations]

If you are just learning, I'd suggest learning how to lap weld with filler rod first. If you are new to TIG, you'll have a tendency to make tall, proud welds with insufficient weld penetration. Learn how to control the torch and get good weld penetration, then move on to fusion welding. That's just my free advice. Or you can just practice on your car.

[ConeDodger]

Welding clinic Mark?

[The Metal Surgeon]

Practice oxy acet welding first. I went to Coventry university ,England for my 4 year engineering apprenticeship with the Jaguar. I never learnt tig back then but I did oxy acet .I applied the same skill set to tig and never looked back.

[Black22]

My 20yr old cousins work...damn kids!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[ruby914]

I took welding in high school. I think I was very good at oxy acetylene welding.
We would make things like 2 stroke dirt bike pipes.
My first job out of high school, I did some TIG welding for an off road race company, again I feel I was very good at it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
This year, 30 years later, I got a Everlast TIG welder and after 6 months I don't think I am very good at it.
I now wear glasses, just seeing the puddle is my biggest challenge.
I must be getting old because as soon as I move my hand from a steady rest I am in the puddle as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[stugray]

My 20yr old cousins work...damn kids!!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-8290-1355850478.jpg)

Nope! That cant be right because that is exactly how I said it should look....

[Black22]

My 20yr old cousins work...damn kids!!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-8290-1355850478.jpg)

Nope! That cant be right because that is exactly how I said it should look....

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

You should see the inside (no pics), but it looks exactly the same! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)