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> New Work Bench, Top Suggestions?
jfort
post Dec 20 2012, 11:47 AM
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I am going to make a new work bench this winter. Maybe 30" by 16'. 4 by 4's. drawers and a shelf across the bottom. A vise. I am just your typical once-in-while car project and home project type guy.

Don't know what to do for the top. I see places make butcher block. I put formica-type stuff on top of 3/4" plywood one time. I've though about a sheet of metal, but something tells me not to do that.

Suggestions? Any other suggestion about a work bench would be appreciated, too. For example, I've thought about getting 2 or 3 half-sized metal shop drawer thinks, bolting them together and putting a work bench top on that. What do you think?
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URY914
post Dec 20 2012, 11:52 AM
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If you want a wood top, try a building supply that may have a damaged solid core wood door. They are heavy enough to support a vise and whatever else you can put on it. I have several in my shop.
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two-strokejohn
post Dec 20 2012, 11:57 AM
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I like metal tops on my workbenches, because they are easier to clean. But, if possible have them made out of light gauge stainless steel.
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jfort
post Dec 20 2012, 12:04 PM
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what gauge stainless? how did you hold it down?
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mwyatt
post Dec 20 2012, 12:33 PM
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I used a sheet of stainless over MDF. Don't remember the gauge. It's held down with four screws. It looks great when it's clean, and it has served me well in a couple years of moderate use.
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Mike Bellis
post Dec 20 2012, 12:40 PM
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I have a galvanized steel skin on one of mine. I find it helps for welding. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) The others are just plywood.
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DBCooper
post Dec 20 2012, 12:44 PM
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It depends a lot on what you want to use it for. Gint's solid core door suggestion is a good one, cut to whatever size you need. In addition I usually put a sheet of Duratex/Masonite on top. I tend to beat them up pretty good, and that way it's real easy to just replace the top and start out new again. Down side is if you dump a lot of solvent or carb cleaner out onto your bench. Then it's better to have metal, but I generally don't like the feel of a metal bench. And if you do sheet metal WATCH THOSE EDGES AND CORNERS, they can really fuch you up.
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underthetire
post Dec 20 2012, 12:44 PM
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Check your local C/L first. Sometimes it's really cheaper to buy one.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/fuo/3486125232.html
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abnrdo
post Dec 20 2012, 01:10 PM
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I have this one from Sears.


8 Ft Butcher Block Benchtop
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VaccaRabite
post Dec 20 2012, 01:12 PM
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Plywood.
I have made bunches of work benches and tables. I almost always make the top of 3/4 ply.

Butcher block looks wonderful, but is kind of a bitch to make, and very expensive to buy.

Metal is a double edge sword. Great for a welding bench but I don't like it for general automotive worktop and its bad for wood working.

3/4 ply is my choice but I usually use whatever I have on hand. Which could be two layers of 3/8 or 1/4. For my lathe table I used 2x10 for strength.

Zach
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7TPorsh
post Dec 20 2012, 01:13 PM
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You can but stainless steel flashing for roofs in different thicknesses and sizes. Screw down on top; easy to replace when too stained or dented. Screw down over 3/4" plywood.
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URY914
post Dec 20 2012, 01:24 PM
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QUOTE(DBCooper @ Dec 20 2012, 11:44 AM) *

Gint's solid core door suggestion is a good one,



Yea, great idea Gint! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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URY914
post Dec 20 2012, 01:26 PM
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I also have a bench top made from a hollow metal door. Heavy as hell.
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stugray
post Dec 20 2012, 01:36 PM
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I was going to sugget the hollow metal door also - Good suggestion Gint ;-);-)
They work good for welding (magnets stick to them), and they are predrilled for hinges.
Screw the hinges to the wall, and your work bench can fold flat against the wall. just add folding legs.

Stu
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7TPorsh
post Dec 20 2012, 01:38 PM
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QUOTE(stugray @ Dec 20 2012, 11:36 AM) *

I was going to sugget the hollow metal door also - Good suggestion Gint ;-);-)
They work good for welding (magnets stick to them), and they are predrilled for hinges.
Screw the hinges to the wall, and your work bench can fold flat against the wall. just add folding legs.

Stu


Not that is a cool idea!!!!
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Elliot Cannon
post Dec 20 2012, 01:44 PM
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I laminated two 3/4 inch sheets of plywood. Routered a groove for a piece of angle iron to protect the edge of the bench. Attached to the studs in the wall and two 2X2 inch tubular steel legs. It's usually a lot more cluttered than it is now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
Cheers, Elliot


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OU8AVW
post Dec 20 2012, 01:53 PM
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these look cool

http://www.creativeshelters.com/2X4Basics/...Bench-Legs.aspx
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DBCooper
post Dec 20 2012, 01:55 PM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Dec 20 2012, 12:24 PM) *

QUOTE(DBCooper @ Dec 20 2012, 11:44 AM) *

Gint's solid core door suggestion is a good one,


Yea, great idea Gint! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


Sorry, fixed it. And I prove it again, my ex was right, I'm a dumbass.
.
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two-strokejohn
post Dec 20 2012, 03:07 PM
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QUOTE(jfort @ Dec 20 2012, 10:04 AM) *

what gauge stainless? how did you hold it down?

Mine is 20 ga stainless sheet.... I folded over the edges so they aren't sharp.... bolted to the table in the corners with a small apolstery screw and washer.
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Mark Henry
post Dec 20 2012, 03:18 PM
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My main bench is 3 heavy industrial steel doors, I also have two 8 foot benches with 3/4" plywood with a 1/8" gray masonite/melamine top layer.
I just found a formed steel top about the exact size you want....I'm thinking of building a new welding table with it.
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