I am going to make a new work bench this winter. Maybe 30" by 16'. 4 by 4's. drawers and a shelf across the bottom. A vise. I am just your typical once-in-while car project and home project type guy.

Don't know what to do for the top. I see places make butcher block. I put formica-type stuff on top of 3/4" plywood one time. I've though about a sheet of metal, but something tells me not to do that.

Suggestions? Any other suggestion about a work bench would be appreciated, too. For example, I've thought about getting 2 or 3 half-sized metal shop drawer thinks, bolting them together and putting a work bench top on that. What do you think?

If you want a wood top, try a building supply that may have a damaged solid core wood door. They are heavy enough to support a vise and whatever else you can put on it. I have several in my shop.

I like metal tops on my workbenches, because they are easier to clean. But, if possible have them made out of light gauge stainless steel.

what gauge stainless? how did you hold it down?

I used a sheet of stainless over MDF. Don't remember the gauge. It's held down with four screws. It looks great when it's clean, and it has served me well in a couple years of moderate use.
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I have a galvanized steel skin on one of mine. I find it helps for welding. The others are just plywood.

It depends a lot on what you want to use it for. Gint's solid core door suggestion is a good one, cut to whatever size you need. In addition I usually put a sheet of Duratex/Masonite on top. I tend to beat them up pretty good, and that way it's real easy to just replace the top and start out new again. Down side is if you dump a lot of solvent or carb cleaner out onto your bench. Then it's better to have metal, but I generally don't like the feel of a metal bench. And if you do sheet metal WATCH THOSE EDGES AND CORNERS, they can really fuch you up.

Check your local C/L first. Sometimes it's really cheaper to buy one.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/fuo/3486125232.html

I have this one from Sears.


8 Ft Butcher Block Benchtop

Plywood.
I have made bunches of work benches and tables. I almost always make the top of 3/4 ply.

Butcher block looks wonderful, but is kind of a bitch to make, and very expensive to buy.

Metal is a double edge sword. Great for a welding bench but I don't like it for general automotive worktop and its bad for wood working.

3/4 ply is my choice but I usually use whatever I have on hand. Which could be two layers of 3/8 or 1/4. For my lathe table I used 2x10 for strength.

Zach

You can but stainless steel flashing for roofs in different thicknesses and sizes. Screw down on top; easy to replace when too stained or dented. Screw down over 3/4" plywood.

Yea, great idea Gint!

I also have a bench top made from a hollow metal door. Heavy as hell.

I was going to sugget the hollow metal door also - Good suggestion Gint ;-);-)
They work good for welding (magnets stick to them), and they are predrilled for hinges.
Screw the hinges to the wall, and your work bench can fold flat against the wall. just add folding legs.

Stu

Not that is a cool idea!!!!

I laminated two 3/4 inch sheets of plywood. Routered a groove for a piece of angle iron to protect the edge of the bench. Attached to the studs in the wall and two 2X2 inch tubular steel legs. It's usually a lot more cluttered than it is now.
Cheers, Elliot

these look cool

http://www.creativeshelters.com/2X4Basics/...Bench-Legs.aspx

Sorry, fixed it. And I prove it again, my ex was right, I'm a dumbass.
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Mine is 20 ga stainless sheet.... I folded over the edges so they aren't sharp.... bolted to the table in the corners with a small apolstery screw and washer.

My main bench is 3 heavy industrial steel doors, I also have two 8 foot benches with 3/4" plywood with a 1/8" gray masonite/melamine top layer.
I just found a formed steel top about the exact size you want....I'm thinking of building a new welding table with it.

I did mine with 3/4 plywood and covered in in 20G steel (liquid nails to the wood) and wrapped the metal over the edges of the wood. I didn't do stainless, its a dry climate here and really dont have problems with rusting or whatever. Just take a scotchbrite wheel to it annually and it cleans up nice.

I picked up used 5'x7' x 1/4 plate steel that I used for my top. I built the rest out of 2" x 1/4" angle. It's heavy and big but I don't have to worry about load limits. Plus it holds a lot of junk

I agree a solid core wood door is the best table top. It will be flat and smooth. Strong enough to bolt a vice or to hammer metal on. Find a local commercial door company or installer and they might give you a damaged one or an old one. I have several doors and if you were local you could have one of these. When I had my shop I took a fire rated door and bolted a 1/8' steel plate to it and used it for a welding table!! Worked great!

If you want to do a little elbow work, go to a local cabinet maker, get his scraps. Usually they are glad to get rid of them. Using a taable saw or planer, smooth down both edges ( most of the time they are goos to go ) and glue up. Finsh cut and top coat. That's all this butcher block I'm giving my parents for Christmas is Freebies and elbow grease Offset each strip by 50% and you can make as large a top as you want

I used plywood, and then covered it with the peel and stick vinyl tiles. I have extras, so when one gets messed up, I just pop it off and replace it. They have worked really well for 5+ years.

Salvaged kitchen laminate countertop. Mine has stood up nicely and cleans up well. I suppose it depends what you're doing on it.

I agree with this; the coved backsplash keeps small parts from falling between the wall and bench, and it is really easy to clean up. There is also a small lip at the front, which keeps small pieces from rolling off (good for old guys like me with diminishing eyesight).

I placed the laminate countertop on top of two sheets of 3/4" plywood sandwiched together, and screwed from the bottom into the countertop. That way, the countertop is uber-smooth (at first) and when it gets too gouged/nasty, pop it off and replace it. I've been able to find two used pieces on Craigslist for free at my previous house over an 8-year period, but I bought a new one when I moved into my current house -- it was ~$65 at Homey Depot. MY 5" vise is bolted through the laminate piece and the plywood, so it is very sturdy.

Here is a pic of my work area. Not as large as I would like, but is has been very useful. Two drawer sections with storage 0n the bottom and two tall storage sections on either side.Top is covered with with a 3/4 inch plywood top, and covered with floor tiles (one foot square with adhesive backing).
The back wall is peg board, with a shelf over it. Probably $200.00 to $250.00 invested.
The larger double door storage is for the canned goods.
Tom
Edit: What a cluttered mess! I gotta clean that area up!

Nice job! That looks great.

Here is a shot off my vise mounted on my hollow metal door....



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And my grinder mounted my solid core door OAK .....

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"Screw the hinges to the wall, and your work bench can fold flat against the wall. just add folding legs."

Good Idea. I think I'm going to try that.

Drill press is on a peice of plastic laminate counter top.....

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Working as a project manager for a construction company has some advantages.

Check this one out. I was thinking of getting this one because you can fold it when not in use. Easy on the wallet too.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-20...51#.UNO9Ym_cu1Q

kissass

http://www.harborfreight.com/60-inch-workbench-93454.html

I have seen them on sale as low as $139.

Found this old kitchen table on the side of a road..I tried to give this thing away, I also thought is would make a nice work bench....So I just put it in my garage.

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This is a freebie I picked up from one of Joe Sharp's neighbors earlier this year

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4x4 legs, 1x4 rails and 1" particle board top. I added a shelf on top of the lower rails and wheels to move it about. I may cover the top with a sheet of galvanized steel at some point

This is a second work bench ... my garage is so cluttered, I can't even get to the work bench in there

The price was right

LOL!!!!! I saw that right away. Great minds think alike.

I made my bench 15 years ago. Put a solid core door on top of it. And on top of that I put 1/4" hardboard, with screws here and there, countersunk. Nice and smooth and if it ever gets all stained or shit'd up, I can just replace the hardboard top. Haven't had to do it yet. And this thing is a ROCK!

Sliders on the front. 3/4' MDF on the bottom, peg board sides and back.

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That is golden I have a two car garage but the wife will want it back sooner then later so this is a perfect solution for me. Happy wife happy wife, but she's cool she buys me tools to work on the teener!

I covered mine with cheap laminate flooring from home depot over top of 2x6's. Good and sturdy, easy to fix.

i did exactly the same.

besides i poured this one (in the background):



another one:



(hope you dont mind my dirdy pyjama.)

I love this thread

I am with scotty on the freebies. I found some great parts just left behind in an old churchyard. I built a great work bench last summer with it. It's going to be great because you can just flip the top up and store all kinds of stuff in it, once I figure out how to get it unsealed that is. I also need to add a lower frame to bring the height up.


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Here's a PORTABLE HEAVY TABLE WORK BENCH 4' X 4' that I made out of 2x4's, 2x6's and white pre cut Laminate Partical boards 2ft x 4ft. The legs on one side only are cut shorter then the legs on the other side so that caster wheels can level and support the table. By lifting the opposite side it can be rolled around to any where you are working at. Also made several 2ft x8ft wall mounted benches using the white Laminated particle boards. They pretty tuff and reflect light plus easy to clean and not that expensive.

Ha ha ha ha, good one. Let's see, where are you from again? Good, now I know never to go anywhere near there.



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i went to our local factory 2nd's building supply/junk store and got a kitchen countertop for $20-patern was jacked up, but works great/ i have 12' of counter top and another 4' of 3/8" steel plate

Ooops . . my bad - I meant to respond to Elliot's post.

Yes!

See, Dave - I told you that would work.