My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Happy New Year everyone!

Just a bit more progress to report. Should drop the drive train today or tomorrow. A few pics...





So here's the cause of the "slight" exhaust leak. This is the pipe coming off of the main cat... man that thing was loud... check out those welds!



In case you are looking for an SVX to drive (not part out), the areas to check for rust are the doors as well as the whole belt line of the car. Like Honda Civics of that era and others, the SVX has a plastic lower panel. Water can get trapped under the plastic and cause rust. Other than that it seems OK aside from the leaky sunroof issues.



Oh no rust in the long! not really...just surface. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



The windows are a PAIN to get out...Step 1 is to undo all of the bolts you can reach with the windows UP. Then roll them down and do the rest. The windows will not come out if they are rolled up. Best to leave the battery hooked up or close by in case you have to roll them up or down again.



Don't wrestle with the shifter from the top. You can take off the trim but it's almost impossible to remove that way due to the position of the cable bolts. Get it from underneath.



To disconnect the engine fuse box/wiring harness you do not need to cut a section of fender like I did. Just follow the wiring into the cabin and they are connected to the back of the main fuse panel. Pull the engine panel out and connect it RIGHT BACK.





Conversely the best way to remove the SRS sensors from the fenders without cutting the wires is to cut a slightly larger hole and push them through so they end up in the interior of the car. Don't wrestle with trying to remove the wires from the main control module. There is something more to that process that is not worth wasting time figuring out...



Plenty of room around the engine once you get the peripherals out. My plan is to cut the front area where the radiator was and roll it out the front of the car. We'll see if it works!

Thanks for all of the support and suggestions! We should do a "best practices since these swaps are becoming pretty common. Love the dental pick idea, and ruby914 I followed your build on Club NARP. Awesome work. Your dash is amazing. Wish I could use a WRX gauge cluster...

[Chris H.]

Finally wrestled the engine and trans out...

First I cut the front section out where the radiator was so I could (hopefully) slide it out the front.



Pre-cut look



Top bar cut



Bottom bar cut

There are 6 17mm bolts on either side of the front suspension. It's fairly obvious that they are the front sub section. Then undo the struts, jack the car way up and the engine, trans, etc will allow you to wrestle it out and forward.



The engine naturally leans forward a bit due to the weight but it IS NOT resting on the accessories/drive belt. The oil pan is a roundish shape.



As the saying goes...the sawzall always wins. Godspeed Mr SVX...



By the way make sure to duct tape any sawzall cuts or you will very likely cut yourself badly or at least tear your clothing.

Still have to take out the gas tank and rear diff, but that's not too bad.

[euro911]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Chris H.]

Parts are en route! Lots of parts! Some I don't even need yet!

[charliew]

Nice thread, I have great respect for guys that take the time to take pictures and do the write ups under them. I don't have that skill yet. I can barely send pictures in a email.

Most of the connectors I have removed wires from were done with a very small allen wrench. It's flat on the end but still worked great for me or the little flat blade micro screwdrivers that you get in little sets from hf.

I bought more than one suby motor just to get the fasteners so keep all the boltsand clips/fasteners that you can remove. I also have lots of vw bolts but very seldom are the threads the same pitch.

[cwpeden]

Had an offer to co-buy an SVX today. An aquaintance has a 240 and wants the rear end of the SVX. That may a market for your rearend if you dont have a buyer.

He and I are both autocrossers and i was telling him about my suby plans. They dont include SVX.

[Chris H.]

Thanks Charlie. Been coming here 10 years so it's about time I did something constructive! Figure I've saved $5k or so by fixing everything myself using the search function here and advice from members.

Conrad, thanks for the info. Would never have guessed you could use an SVX rear end for a 240 (Z I assume). Probably a good match, and if you blow it up just buy another one for cheap.

One thing I learned from BIGKAT_83 is that the seals for the SVX engines are not too cheap...so even though the car was like $500, I'll need about $500 in seals as well. Might want to check that when shopping around... That's OK...have to do the timing belt anyway so why not do it all at once. I'll just pretend its a 911 engine for a while... $500 is a GREAT deal then.

Should get some parts this week but first I will throw the engine on a stand and change the seals. Looks pretty easy but I'll post some pics anyway.

[a914622]

Subaru parts . com is the best pricing you will find on your seal kit. If i remember it was 260.00 for the complete kit. It comes with every thing. It is an internet only site run out of a subaru dealer in Tacoma. Super good peaple to work with. I would only use a subaru timing belt!

Head bolts are reusable no need for new ones. ACL racing bearings for the 2.2 fit but you have to buy 2 sets to get a 6 back together. No kit for svx. Hoses should be converted to silicon if possible.

the engine under the wire harness pic was just rebuilt. Amazing motors! I have an extra one that i may have to add boost, lots of boost. Have 2 engine cradles , street and STI killer. Hummm..

PM me if you want detailed pics of the harness cut down. I can probably save you a week of BS.

jcl

[Chris H.]

Thanks jcl! Wow that is very helpful.

[BIGKAT_83]

Chris here is a picture of my fuel tank with the intank pump.
You can see the AC evaporater behind the tank fits like a glove. Im working on venting this to the dash vents.


Bob

[Chris H.]

Very nice Bob! Thanks! I finally got the fuel pump out of the tank and got the gas drained. Tomorrow I'll be calling the tow truck!

BTW I also see your slave cylinder reservoir for the hydraulic clutch. Looks great.

[Tilly74]

Chris here is a picture of my fuel tank with the intank pump.
You can see the AC evaporater behind the tank fits like a glove. Im working on venting this to the dash vents.


Bob

Sorry to "hijack" but is there any more information about this AC evaporator setup? I've searched everywhere for more info on installing an evaporator where the fresh air box is and can't find much of anything. What brand/model is that evaporator? This is exactly what I want to do with my car eventually.

[Chris H.]

Chris here is a picture of my fuel tank with the intank pump.
You can see the AC evaporater behind the tank fits like a glove. Im working on venting this to the dash vents.


Bob

Sorry to "hijack" but is there any more information about this AC evaporator setup? I've searched everywhere for more info on installing an evaporator where the fresh air box is and can't find much of anything. What brand/model is that evaporator? This is exactly what I want to do with my car eventually.

Let's transfer you here:

BIGKAT Thread

Post 53. Bob has 2 subie threads...both very helpful.

And now, a moment of silence...






OK let's get on with the show! Engine seals ordered....

[Chris H.]

Just some minor updates...the exciting stuff will start next week.

Separating the SVX engine from the trans is not quite as easy as expected. Since it is automatic you have to unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter. If you don't you can tug all day and it's not going to budge. Ask me how I know... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



Under the intake on the snorkel end (rear) you will find a plug just to the passenger side. Take that off and there is a hole that will allow access to the 12mm bolts one at a time. Rotate the engine CLOCKWISE ONLY using a 21mm socket on the crank pulley until all 4 are removed.



The engine and trans won't usually just come loose like a 914's will. Seems like the lower bolts are pointed slightly outward or something because they are TIGHTLY mated. What you have to do is start prying them apart with something slim like a putty knife and gradually and very carefully move up to wider prying tools. At some point it gives up.



Make sure you have something like a furniture dolly positioned under the trans. It's one heavy SOB. Not something you can normally just lift.



On the stand...this is the part where I usually say "I WIN!" and point at the object I have been wrestling with...crazy but at least I feel better. That sucker is also very heavy compared to a type 4. Might want to remove some of the accessories before you hoist it up there.

[Chris H.]

So the angle of the intake has gotten my attention. Bob and I spoke of flipping it which can be done but might require rearranging of the alternator.



When you look at it from the top it looks like it will clear since the angle is so steep....



But under the intake snorkels is this little guy which will probably make it harder. I suppose a spacer could work...we'll see. Otherwise the alternator could be moved...

[Chris H.]

Here's a better shot of the angle...



And the front again...

[76-914]

Chris, what is the issue with the TB and Alt? I didn't understand what you are showing under the intake snorkels, either. Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Chris H.]

Sorry what I was saying is that it appears that I could flip the intake around so it faces the front of the engine, thereby eliminating the need to cut into the rear trunk (or at least lessen the cutting). The angle upwards makes it look like you could just flip it, but right under the air intake holes (snorkel) which are taped off now there is some sort of module (don't know what it is yet) that will probably be in the way. Might have to move the alternator to the end where the power steering pump resides now. I want to retain the A/C as well.

[scotty b]

If you flip it, will you still have enough room to put whatever filter system you plan to use without hitting the firewall ?

[wingnut86]

94' had an EGR valve in the location under the intake.

What year is it again?