My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Well things have slowed down a LOT but they are about to get back on pace. Been working on the main wiring harness...FUN!

This is below "Andy's camera" quality...did I even point it at the harness?



A laundry basket full of electrical tape...from unwrapping the main harness...probably a couple miles of it there.



Got the engine harness back in



Refinished the flywheel even though it might have been OK - looks much better.



Hydraulic clutch bits...still need to decide whether to use metal or poly lines...leaning towards poly.

[Chris H.]

Couple of notes....

1. Be very careful to choose the right clutch kit. For example, my trans is a 2006 WRX, which supported a 2,5T. Although many sites and ebay sellers will say that the cheaper KSB03 or KSB04 clutch kit works, they DO NOT. The one you need is the FJK1001. It's $100 more but if you use the cheaper one it won't engage properly and will chew up the clutch disc...search NASIOC for cross-reference for the clutch that works with your trans.



2. Apparently Subaru changed the oil separator that is under the flywheel from metal to plastic in the '90's...and it wasn't a good idea. Then they went to aluminum...still bad. Now the replacement is steel. If your engine has one made of plastic or aluminum change it. Both leak like crazy.

Good thing I poked a hole in mine trying to lock the flywheel! YEAH! Meant to do that!



Here's the old one and new one...universal and fits several models. The new part # is 11831AA210

[Chris H.]

Here's what the oil separator plate looks like installed:



Lately it's been a game of hurry up and wait...I failed to realize that the bolts that hold the flex plate on the 3.3 are shorter than what is needed for the flywheel...now I had to order the bolts! No Subie dealer has them:



Attached the engine mount (fits great so far) and got the engine down off the stand. I made this boxed wood frame so that the weight is evenly distributed and the engine and trans will be in the positions they will be in the car. It was VERY easy. Plus it keeps the oil pan off the ground.







Once my bolts come in (and a couple of other issues come up and get resolved) we'll mount the engine to the trans and test fire it. Still have a lot of wiring work to sort through...

[euro911]

What supports the front of the engine, Chris?

Looking good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[nsyr]

nothing. the engine mounts are towards the back of the engine. the transmission keeps it from leaning foward.

[Chris H.]

nothing. the engine mounts are towards the back of the engine. the transmission keeps it from leaning forward.

You are correct sir, nothing up front. Without the trans it is very "front heavy" but that's why I tied everything together with the wood frame.

[jimkelly]

but in your pic there is no trans on the motor. I assume the motor is resting on a wooden cross member of your stand?

jim

[Chris H.]

Hey Jim,

Believe it or not the engine is being held in place almost entirely by the mounts coming up from the engine bar. They are VERY strong:





Although the front wood piece does provide a small amount of support it's barely touching the pan. It does stop forward movement at some point though and I think that is critical until the trans is hooked up. We're talking 80/20 weight distribution here....





The initial idea behind the wood frame was to keep the oil pan above ground when I lowered the engine down from the stand. Then I realized it could be extended back to the trans mounts and slightly change the weight distribution so that the engine doesn't flop forward onto the floor. If it wasn't for my novice mistake of forgetting the flywheel bolts the trans would already be in and the lump would be pretty evenly weighted. I want to get it running before I put it in so that will be next. Hopefully Ian will make some cable kits so I don't have to fab my own.

Are you done with your conversion Jim?

[nsyr]

I would be careful with those mounts. They are fluid filled and known to come apart. Both of mine have come apart. The replacement cost I believe is around 200 each! I will be replacing mine with sti mounts which have to be retrofitted.

[Chris H.]

I would be careful with those mounts. They are fluid filled and known to come apart. Both of mine have come apart. The replacement cost I believe is around 200 each! I will be replacing mine with sti mounts which have to be retrofitted.

Thanks Andrew, very good point. Yes they are vulnerable and pricey ($271 each at last check). I literally have not moved that thing an inch to keep stress at a minimum. Didn't plan to leave it like that for this long but they seem fine. Seems like this is not the first set for the engine... The bolts arrive tomorrow.

[Chris H.]

Look what came today....flywheel bolts...



These work great for the SVX. Part # is 800610740.

Comparison of the flex plate bolts vs. flywheel bolts. There's a joke in here, but it's too obvious...



Hey do you guys recommend using a small amount of blue loctite for these or is it not necessary? Unless someone HATES the idea I think I will.

[Chris H.]

It's one of those weeks where you get a surprise every day in the mail...here's today's:



Thanks to SpeedMetalArmy for the heads-up. Apparently this thing will not only translate a 6 or 8 cylinder pulse onto your stock tack but will stop the "tach bounce" that many of us get with 4 cylinder engines. Haven't tried it yet. It's pretty compact..

[Mike Bellis]

Hydraulic clutch bits...still need to decide whether to use metal or poly lines...leaning towards poly.

I ran a -3AN stainless braided PTFE line in mine. Worked great! I did buy some extra fittings and leave some slack in the line. This came in handy when the transmission side leaked during bleeding. I ran the line inside the factory clutch tube, slid in without effort.

[76-914]

That's a good tip Mike. Wow Chris, your moving right along. Can't wait to see your post/video of it running. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I like your wooden engine stand. Clever! Just looking for good ideas to steal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

Thanks Mike. Definitely looking to copy a good idea on the clutch. If yours works well I will do the same. Your conversion turned out awesome BTW. You always finish your projects.

Kent, I would give you my "stand" if you lived closer. It's literally just a few pieces of 2X4 though. I'll post the measurements. It can be constructed in about 20 minutes. Are you using Ian's mount or fabbing one?

[76-914]

I'm building my own because he is out of commission for a while. I really just used this as an excuse to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) this. Anything lately?

[Chris H.]

Kent, I'm just about to pull the engine! Planning for this weekend.

Also think I figured out what to do for a water temp gauge. The 924 combo gauge is allegedly the same diameter as the 914 (100mm). It has water temp, fuel level, plus all the warning lights we need (oil pressure, alternator, low fuel, brake). It has a pointed plastic bezel, but I'll either swap that out for a flat piece of glass or swap the guts into the 914 combo gauge. Not sure if the fuel gauge will work well, but I can cannibalize my current one if need be. For $25 you can't go wrong.

Pic of a similar gauge from the interweb:

[76-914]

Very nice! Keep the pic's coming and the build going on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) I should talk! So damned busy with work I have to steal time to work on mine. Plenty of spare time = no work, which = no $$. No spare time = lots of work, which = plenty of $$. Vicious cycle.

[euro911]

I got tired of living that 'vicious' cycle, so I retired.

... and still don't have enough time to get everything done (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Chris H.]

Got the old engine out! I'm feeling a little bad about the engine swap but I think I'll get over it. The 1.8l is so original and unmolested... (but dusty)

Amazingly similar....





What do these numbers mean?



a 1.0L!?



All the heater tube clamps are the original VW embossed ones...



Back pad is awesome - just some paint on it but otherwise very good.



When I got back from my last drive of 2012 it was running a little rough....this MIGHT by why....#2 plug wire ripped out of its sheath. Ran pretty good on three cylinders for a few miles!



Got the rear hubs pressed



Engine hole - anyone know how to remove the glue that holds the back pad on? The paint under it is pristine!!!