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> MY SIX, bought in 78
rhodyguy
post Sep 16 2013, 10:43 AM
Post #41


Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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"secret squirrel". is that code or the name of the biz?
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sixnotfour
post Oct 13 2013, 02:26 PM
Post #42


914 Wizard
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No he does his own insurance buys and sells...
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sixnotfour
post May 4 2014, 10:38 PM
Post #43


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Well, that didn't work out...travel time, he got busy, car off and on the rack...
Fuch It..bought this...

Swiss made


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sixnotfour
post May 4 2014, 10:46 PM
Post #44


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914 the door opening was almost one inch short from embracing a telephone pole..

edit; the door opening


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sixnotfour
post May 4 2014, 10:48 PM
Post #45


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Inner long cut out, trying to pull floor straight..
The burn line on the floor is how far the inner long folded in, It is burnt from plasma cutting to remove the damaged inner long.


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sixnotfour
post May 4 2014, 10:53 PM
Post #46


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After a lot of pulling here and there..
Hasn't had a right door in 30 years.. closer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


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sixnotfour
post May 4 2014, 10:55 PM
Post #47


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Next step the cowl section is still pushed over..


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sixnotfour
post May 4 2014, 11:13 PM
Post #48


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before inner


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rick 918-S
post May 5 2014, 08:05 AM
Post #49


Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Nice score on the Caroliner and Unic! I had one of those Unic lifts when I had my shop. It works awesome!

I wanted to be sure you were thinking about all aspects of this repair before starting to weld it back together. Cowl hits are often misdiagnosed. Because of the unit body the damage will travel through the car causing it to banana or form an arch. It will shorten the wheel base on one side. Just pulling out in the area of damage will not be enough to get the front back in place. a front pull is needed to help with with the stress of the trapped damage. Special attention needs to be paid when checking the center line of the car before, during and after as the car will tend to want to spring back.

You may want to make up some fixtures to hold the cars center line and suspension track before you start to weld. Here is a quick 2 dimensional sketch to show what happens to a unitized chassis when it is side hit. Remember this banana effect carries through on all plains.


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sixnotfour
post May 5 2014, 11:00 AM
Post #50


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Richs thanks, that is why , I pulled the lower first, it hinged on the top a bit, There was an impact with the pole right there cause the crunch area. also the windshield frame is square, but the lower is turned inward towards the back..I am making something to get behind the pinchweld at the base and will pull there should on roll the frame and start easing the creases in the gas tank area.
A little pull, a little hammer, a little pull, a little hammer..

Also , the car still has two major hits to work out so right now Im going for panel fit and major aesthetics, after the others are to that level , I am being careful not to over pull. I will get down to every other dimension. I am going to brace it. and move to the next impact.
not do any assembly welding until that point..
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sixnotfour
post May 5 2014, 11:13 AM
Post #51


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I should have posted these also, it tool quite a bit of messy around ...trying to save that OG parts...

you can see how the door post assembly pushed in and rolled the wheel house in a U shape, no creasing just rolled.

So really all I did is un roll it.. Rich I am not saying the chassis is still square, but the rolled area is what made the door opening shorten.


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sixnotfour
post May 5 2014, 11:13 AM
Post #52


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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


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effutuo101
post May 5 2014, 11:25 AM
Post #53


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Great work Jeff! love the pictures.
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sixnotfour
post May 5 2014, 11:27 AM
Post #54


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Before.... I knew I had a shot at it because the door pillar is ok so if I backed it up with some solid it would move back with some pulling power.
It really hasn't taken much to move this pressure wise so far..


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rick 918-S
post May 5 2014, 09:08 PM
Post #55


Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Looking good Jeff. I can see you have the concept. Work from the center square of the chassis. Those things most guy's call hockey pucks or jack points are actually used as check sets on the Celette. This is the way to tell if the center of the chassis is square and level. If it's not nothing else matters. Move out from there. I don't know if you got any measuring equipment with the Caroliner but with simple centering gauges you can hang them from the check sets and work out from there.
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sixnotfour
post May 6 2014, 09:31 AM
Post #56


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Here is the little last little kink hiding behind the windshield and dash (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
once this hinge point is opened a bit, I think things will be a lot closer..
windshield opening, fender seam, and the cowl hump should come down some more.

The cowl seem area that takes the blk trim piece was completely closed, but as I progressed , it is almost factory width again.


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sixnotfour
post May 9 2014, 11:03 AM
Post #57


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Moving rearward...


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sixnotfour
post May 9 2014, 11:09 AM
Post #58


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Coming around...


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sixnotfour
post May 9 2014, 11:13 AM
Post #59


914 Wizard
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before...


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sixnotfour
post May 9 2014, 11:15 AM
Post #60


914 Wizard
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before II...


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