Dashboards are hard!, --- Let's talk vacuum bagging Options

[Bob L.]

Hello World, Happy new year!

I have removed the dashboard from the car and have tried to recover the dash by hand using a heat gun and brute force stretching//pushing/cramming etc.
As much as it was a PITA, it was coming along pretty well.



Both times!
The first time I realized the glue wouldn't hold up in the heat. The second time I realized I want to use a Uv protected vinyl. Generally marine vinyl. I had no idea about the vinyl I was using, so off it came. I found some that will hold up well and is much stretchier than what I what I had been using. Awaiting samples.

Now, I have seen a lot about Vacuum bagging/pressing and want to try it on my dashboard. I think it would work well at normal temps with the stretchier vinyl and the right glue. (Weldwood)

So, I'm wondering if anyone has any experience they would like to share.
I have a vacuum pump but no bag yet. I've found a few options. They're
expensive!

I feel that the vacuum bagging will show the cracks much more than hand fitting so I want to fill them better. Is RTV the best thing to use? Maybe CA glue?

Advice and suggestions welcome.
TIA.
Bob.

[KaptKaos]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[914Sixer]

Back in the 80's when I worked for Orig-Quip putting on car tops, we took the tops and put them in the dryer to soften up. This made them easier to work turning the corners around the back window. As for the glue, it came from the manufacturer, probably a special blend for hot and cold extremes of the car roof.

[Gint]

Interesting project. I look forward to seeing the results.

[Jeff Hail]

Any imperfections present (crease, wrinkles etc) will still be there if you vacuum bag, they will just be flatter.

The preheating in a drier is excellent to get fold creases out prior to installing.
Old school is still the best way to go for the layout.

[stugray]

You can vacuum bag with industrial strength saran-wrap.
You dont even need the fancy fittings that the pros use.
Some plumbers putty can seal odd places and is reuseable.

I have considered making a fiberglass mold of my dash cap and replicating them in carbon fiber.

Stu

[nomore9one4]

I dont know how vacuum bagging works but maybe you can try covering the dashtop with a thin foam like they use under vinyl tops to feather the cracks..Although, it looks like your doing a pretty nice job the oldschool way. That vinyl needs to stretch north south east and west all at the same time to contour to those curves. I would stick with what you are doing and just take your time...Nice job! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) PS..we need a upholstery smiley

[Dr Evil]

Very thin foam is a nice way to cover the cracks. For vac bags, you can use painters plastic sheet in a not too thick MM. Cheap and easy. I second the plumbers putty and fittings. With a dash it is easy because the bottom can be where you put the fittings so any marks are not an issue. I have been toying with this idea for a while.....it is on the back burner with other projects. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

An idea I have had for a cheap pump, try to find a used breast pump (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Probably cheap.

[euro911]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

When I read the title to this thread, I thought someone hit their head on one or something (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Bob L.]

stugray Posted Jan 6 2013, 01:49 PM
"You can vacuum bag with industrial strength saran-wrap.
You dont even need the fancy fittings that the pros use.
Some plumbers putty can seal odd places and is reuseable."

I like where you're going here. do you think it will stretch enough for the crevices and wrap under instrument hood? Where do you get it?

nomore9one4
"That vinyl needs to stretch north south east and west all at the same time to contour to those curves."

That is why I'm getting the new vinyl... 4 way stretch.

Gint.
"Interesting project. I look forward to seeing the results."

Yeah, Me too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Bob L.]

Could "Plasti Dip" be used to fill the cracks? Not the spray, the tool handle dip. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[nomore9one4]

Never tried the plasti dip.. For a deep cracks I would use spray foam(the kind in a can used for insulating around doors and windows) Its flexible and easy to shape.

[Bob L.]

Never tried the plasti dip.. For a deep cracks I would use spray foam(the kind in a can used for insulating around doors and windows) Its flexible and easy to shape.

The expanding stuff?

[bulitt]

I think there was a member that filled the cracks by disolving polystyrene foam in acetone. Basically makes plastic. Try gooooglin it.

[nomore9one4]

Never tried the plasti dip.. For a deep cracks I would use spray foam(the kind in a can used for insulating around doors and windows) Its flexible and easy to shape.

The expanding stuff?

yes

[Dr Evil]

Spray foam would be the best for deep cracks, but you would still see them. You nee the thin foam overlay.

[tracks914]

I filled the cracks in my dash with 3 minute epoxy about 6 years ago. I then painted the dash with vinyl paint just to get through the summer. 6 years later (6 very cold -30 winters as well) and it still hasn't opened up again and I have to look to see where the cracks were.
If you were going to cover it with vinyl then I'm sure you would never see it.

[nomore9one4]

Spray foam would be the best for deep cracks, but you would still see them. You nee the thin foam overlay.

correct..i would still use the thin foam overtop. the spray foam would prevent any low spots. Although back in the day I would be able to repair this without covering it with new vinyl... However I no longer have the resources or the patience (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Bob L.]

The cracks aren't deep. Mostly just through the vinyl. What kind of film/foam overlay? How thick/thin? Would it hinder good adhesion into the tight corners?

[Dr Evil]

1/8" from a upholstery shop will work.