'73 Resto & Suby 6 Conversion, or a primer on "How to convert your 914 to a Subaru 3.0" Options

[76-914]

FWIW, Marks Dash Top appears to be an improvement over OEM as it is much more substantial. When each are held side by side, the OEM dash feels like a cheap imitation.

In other news: I finally got off my Ass and completed the VSS circuit. W/O that signal the ECU would completely cut out until I let off the throttle and pushed down on it again. It only happened if my throttle position remained steady for extended periods of time. It first raised it's ugly head on the trip to WCR2015. I almost (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) myself but soon realized how to manage it. It was never a problem in town as the peddle get moved a lot. Tom at the EZ30 board enlightened me so I tried it. In the process I discovered that I had connected the VSS signal wire to the ECU but failed to energize it. IOW's, I didn't connect the 12v or ground wire. I started it as I was rolling down the drive and the idle shot up. I stopped and said (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) waited a few seconds and drove down the street in 2nd while it idled high. By the 3rd stop sign the computer accepted the new signal but something else cleared up which was a welcome bonus. Don't know why but the popping/backfire, which I had always attributed to an open and very short exhaust, went away. Sounds Bad Ass during down shifts now. I don't know if it cured the cut out on the hi way yet so I'll cross my fingers until I get it on the open road again. If that was it I see no reason not to install Cruise Control. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif) Don't anybody tell Pat Garvey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[76-914]

Damn, all this criticism of Marks product yet I forget to post some pic's of it installed. Those of you sitting on the fence should move on this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) Anyway, here it is installed. Onward thru the Fog!

[rnellums]

Kent,

Just as a double check, that VSS signal is coming from the 3 pole sender on the passengers side of the transmission right? I want to make sure I've got it hooked up properly!

-Ross

[76-914]

Yep. GB to A1 and the other 2 are +/-. I couldn't find my wires listed, which are G, W & Br so I measured the dia of both and deduced the larger was +. Lucked out and got it right. Yours might be Gb=VS, Y=+ switched & B= -. How many miles you got on her, now Ross?

[rnellums]

Can't say for sure since I switched back to a stock-looking speedo(using the subie speed sensor) 3000 miles in, but probably close to 6k now. Only 22mpg on the last tank though, too many redline pulls for good fuel economy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)! II got to drive rays conversion today, and I have to say, that hydraulic clutch is silky smooth. I'm going to be switching over this winter for sure.

[euro911]

Damn, all this criticism of Marks product yet I forget to post some pic's of it installed. Those of you sitting on the fence should move on this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) Anyway, here it is installed. Onward thru the Fog!

Not criticizing Mark's products, just mentioned that my dash might be delivered with the 'patch' when it gets shipped (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

I've spent thousands for a lot of awesome products that Mark makes available to us (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) ... I'm trying to get him to expand into the early 911/912 arena too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

FWIW, Marks Dash Top appears to be an improvement over OEM as it is much more substantial. When each are held side by side, the OEM dash feels like a cheap imitation.

In other news: I finally got off my Ass and completed the VSS circuit. W/O that signal the ECU would completely cut out until I let off the throttle and pushed down on it again. It only happened if my throttle position remained steady for extended periods of time. It first raised it's ugly head on the trip to WCR2015. I almost (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) myself but soon realized how to manage it. It was never a problem in town as the peddle get moved a lot. Tom at the EZ30 board enlightened me so I tried it. In the process I discovered that I had connected the VSS signal wire to the ECU but failed to energize it. IOW's, I didn't connect the 12v or ground wire. I started it as I was rolling down the drive and the idle shot up. I stopped and said (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) waited a few seconds and drove down the street in 2nd while it idled high. By the 3rd stop sign the computer accepted the new signal but something else cleared up which was a welcome bonus. Don't know why but the popping/backfire, which I had always attributed to an open and very short exhaust, went away. Sounds Bad Ass during down shifts now. I don't know if it cured the cut out on the hi way yet so I'll cross my fingers until I get it on the open road again. If that was it I see no reason not to install Cruise Control. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif) Don't anybody tell Pat Garvey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

I knew it! Getting this done in the next few days. I have some popping on decel which I also thought was my exhaust. That plus the other VSS symptoms...wth am I waiting for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ?

[76-914]

Yep. You heard it here first. And just in time for Winter. Our coolest day in month's. Appropriate. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) All joking aside, I couldn't believe it when I saw the gages come to life and the compressor kick in w/o being jumped. I'm happier than a two petered Billy Goat. I'm sure I will have teething pains to address but this entire process has been a mind bender for my little brain. I knew "0" about AC a few month's back and thx to the internet I now have AC/Heat/Defrost/heated seats. I may need to "open up" the front a bit or change radiators or increase fender ducting or...........who knows. I had the console in and out 6 times since I thought I was finished. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) No matter. At this point the hard work is behind me and only a few mods in front of me. I suspect a few of those will come as next summers heat begins. Can't wait for Mark's roll bar trim to complete my interior. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Chris H.]

So working HEAT and AC? Dang. Might have to change the model number on that car. How's it working?

[A&P Mech]

Sir, you are my hero!

[76-914]

So working HEAT and AC? Dang. Might have to change the model number on that car. How's it working?

We'll see. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Seriously, it's too early to say. Haven't driven around town with it yet. Also, I need a day at 90F + to dial it in. It was only 80F yesterday and my hi pressure side was at 190 which is just about right if you follow the std. formula of "ambient temp x 2 + 15% to 20%. IOW, don't want to Jinx myself by talking it up.

Sir, you are my hero!

You need to be more selective in your choices. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) You should do this. It can be done in a weekend for appx $1000 if your Andrew or 2 weekends for the average Joe. It's not that difficult if you have some direction. Mine took a long time because I had no idea of what, how and on n on. I ended up with plenty of legroom which surprised me. Onward thru the Fog. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[JRust]

Well done my friend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) . I have dreams of finishing mine. Right now I am wishing my heating unit didn't get taken apart. As a donor that we didn't use anyway. Would much rather have that in my car right now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . Still sweet to see yours up & running. Will make the long drives in heat so much nicer

[76-914]

I couldn't get a reply from any of our resident electrical specialist (in the "Electrical Question" thread) so I moved on without 'em. I may have stumped them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) This is my situation. I wired my radiators to have a 2 speed function. Ground one of the 2 neg wires and it runs on low speed. If you ground both then it runs on high speed. On the other side is the ECU which normally controls the fan speeds. It also does this thru neg switching. There are 3 wires coming out of the ECU that "supposedly" control the fans. I was a little cautious in the beginning and twisted all 3 together hoping it worked. Well it has but now I want to see if I can determine which of these 3 switching wires does what and when? Make sense so far? I made a temp panel & mounted 3 LED lites in it and placed it so that I can see it in the rear view mirror when driving. My challenge was to isolate each lite from the circuit or all 3 would illuminate at the same time no matter which wire was active. IOW, they will all share a common (+) so if they also share a (-), which they do via the ground connection to the fans, they will all lite up. I placed a small switching diode on each of the 3 wires between the ECU & the junction of the 3 wires. Then I tapped into each wire with a (-) lead going to it's corresponding lite. Hopefully, I'll find that one is low, one is high and the 3rd is (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . Possibly on the AC circuit and controlled by AC pressures or just the activation of the AC compressor??? Who knows. My only concern in all of this is there can be issues when diodes are run in parallel. I'm hoping that I don't get any "bounce back" since I'm on the neg side. I won't know until I drive it a short little while. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) I did fuse the 12v+ connection to the LED's just in case.

[76-914]

My new lift inspired me to replace my noisy and unacceptably low exhaust system. By using SS my product line triples and allows me to reconfigure the existing system thereby shortening it and allowing the use of a normal muffler. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Here you can see it runs beneath the engine cradle giving it just 3" ground clearance! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)



An entire side with the whopping 10" Glass Pack. At the time, there wasn't room for anything else.



This is the piece that should allow me to change things around and shorten it up. A 2" 2r 180' or U Bend.



The 2" is too small so I will have to add a piece to fill the oval flange.









This piece will need to have one end expanded at the muffler shop manana.



I ended up with 1/2" clearance between the engine cradle and the drop arm when fully extended.



Here's the end that will need cut, expanded and welded to complete the sharp turn 90'.



If this works I'll order the pieces for the other side and the mufflers and flanges. Oh, almost forgot to say thanks to Mike (Mueller) for the SS wire. I owe you one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

WCR convinced me that I did not have enough space when traveling with my wife. I bought the luggage rack from Steve a few months back. I still need to fab the proper brackets which are on the underside. Picked the lid up a couple of weeks ago from Ian, IIRC. The lid was from the 914 used in the "Wheeler Dealer" episode. Not that I give a Rat's Arse about that. The CF Wrap from Amazon for <$18. It's only use will be when we travel and I couldn't see dropping a bunch of $$ on this project or drilling holes in my existing lid.

[Chris H.]

Like it! Did you get the exhaust finished?

[76-914]

Like it! Did you get the exhaust finished?

Waiting on the muffler. Once I have it in hand and if it works out I'll order the same stuff for the other side. I learned on the last system. If I order for both sides and I made a mistake then I've made it twice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Plus, Summit has free shipping on orders over $99 so I'll keep the orders right above $99. First time around I ordered everything at once and ended up returning a few items and I ended up paying additional shipping charges because I didn't have enough for free shipping. Live and learn. Are you working on yours since Winter arrived??

[Chris H.]

Yeah it's been a mild winter. Been busy but hopefully soon. Getting some new tools for Christmas. Will be dropping the engine soon and fixing the leak at the oil pump. Also want to flip the manifold if I can. I found a stock intake on e-bay (finally!).

[NeunEinVier]

Mark, they are pieces cut from an 8mm plastic thd rod, I believe. I say that because the length of each varies slightly. Most likely some Chinese product that got out of spec somewhere in production. I checked to see if they were 5/16" but they aren't.

M8 threads come in 1.0mm and 1.25mm thread pitches, maybe they just happened to use the wrong pitch.

[76-914]

The muffler arrived yesterday and I was able to test fit it. The 4"x9" oval shape works. That's the good news. The bad is that I probably won't use this muffler. It's about as straight thru as the existing Glasspacks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) No problem. The shape was my main concern. My concerns were threefold. 1st was quite, then clearance and finally use the existing cutouts on the rear fairing.
If you think the U fitting weld joint isn't square your right. It was necessary to center up with the "channel" the muffler will sit in.





These flanges will move in front of the stub axles for added clearance but they actually clear as they sit. I just don't see any sense in crowding the axles if I don't need to.



The strap on the left side of the muffler will be R&R'd during assembly. Managed to hit the old cutout's in the rear fairing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



That 1/4" wood spacer between the muffler and rear sway bar is there until I spot weld the muffler up.



You can see the ground clearance difference between the old system on the left and the new system on the right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Now that I know it will fit, it is ime to order the parts for the left side.