Project Time! 71 garage build, Broke a Valve Spring... Options

[euro911]

Before trying to drill out the whole bolt, soak the bore with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (for a day or two), drill the center of the bolt with a 1/4" bit and try an easy out.

Looks like all those threads are gonna need chased anyway.

[dfelz]

Before trying to drill out the whole bolt, soak the bore with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (for a day or two), drill the center of the bolt with a 1/4" bit and try an easy out.

Looks like all those threads are gonna need chased anyway.

Do i have access to those holes from the top?? it looks like there are plastic covers up there, do those just pop off??

[mrbubblehead]

Before trying to drill out the whole bolt, soak the bore with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (for a day or two), drill the center of the bolt with a 1/4" bit and try an easy out.

Looks like all those threads are gonna need chased anyway.

Do i have access to those holes from the top?? it looks like there are plastic covers up there, do those just pop off??

Yes they just pop off. Try everything you can to get it out. If you end up jacking it up, all is not lost. Tangerine Racing make a replacement insert to weld in there. Dont sweat it, yours isnt the first to break off in there. I used anti seize and grade 10 bolts in mine.

[euro911]

I haven't had a rear suspension apart (yet), don't know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
Somebody will pop in with the answer (and I'll be watching - I need to rebuild a couple of suspensions myself) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Jeremy and I just got home from our auto shop class and I saw your voice mail. I thought it might be too late to return your call ...

[mrbubblehead]

If you try the easy out be very careful not to break it off in there. Easy outs are hardened and extremely difficult to get out. If your lucky the broken bolt will loosen up while your drilling the hole for the easy out. I would keep increasing the size of your bit and use the biggest easy out you can get in there. the first hole you drill will be the most important. It's gotta be STRAIGHT thru the bolt. Lots of rapid tap on your drill bits. and like mark said, soak the shit out of it with pb blaster from the top. Maybe pound on it with a punch too to loosen it up. I will be around if you need some help pm me.

[dfelz]

Thanks guys!! I'll start soaking it tonight!

Mark i left the message so you wouldn't have a missed call from a random number and no explanation. now you have my cell too!

I also have your battery ready to go, charged it today at school. I'm open the whole weekend so when ever works for you is good for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[dfelz]

Got the front suspension all swapped! New five lug is on the car with the turbo tie rods, m-calipers and all.

Old one off in one piece
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1358450381.1.jpg)

New one on! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1358450381.2.jpg)

My question though is about those pressure plates at the upper strut mount. The Haynes book was saying that adjustment of those will alter your steering geometry. So I how do i know it its set up correctly.

Next question is in regards to the torsion bar cap and adjuster screw. Since the car is on jacks right now, its at full droop, so at what angle should those caps start at and should the screw be hitting the top as is or should there be a gap and let it make contact once the car is set down???

I'm going to attempt to get that sheared bolt out of the suspension console tonight, wish me luck!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[euro911]

You'll probably want to take it to an alignment shop specializing in P cars, but to get you started, just line the brackets up to where the originals were.

[FourBlades]

Nice progress man! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

John

[oldschool]

Got the front suspension all swapped! New five lug is on the car with the turbo tie rods, m-calipers and all.

Old one off in one piece
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1358450381.1.jpg)

New one on! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1358450381.2.jpg)

My question though is about those pressure plates at the upper strut mount. The Haynes book was saying that adjustment of those will alter your steering geometry. So I how do i know it its set up correctly.

Next question is in regards to the torsion bar cap and adjuster screw. Since the car is on jacks right now, its at full droop, so at what angle should those caps start at and should the screw be hitting the top as is or should there be a gap and let it make contact once the car is set down???

I'm going to attempt to get that sheared bolt out of the suspension console tonight, wish me luck!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

very cool man..

[dfelz]

Got some hours loged tonight... did some good things, found some bad, cant complain.
I'll start with the good.
Got one wheel on the front right side. Would have got the left front one on too but then there is the bad, i think one of the lug studs is a little crooked and a tad long, any ideas on getting that situated....?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1358498724.1.jpg)

Next I attempted to get that sheared bolt out of the suspension console, was unsuccessful... eventually drilled out the hole trying to spare the threads enough to go over them with a tap and make all better. Drill wasnt perfectly straight so that didnt work... next idea is drill out bigger and tap to an M12

After i got over that situation i went onto the engine bay, drained the gas through the engine compartment fuel lines then removed the stock fuel pump and fuel filter. Will take out the rest of the stock fuel lines and replace with single tunnel SS line for carb set up this weekend.

[dfelz]

I would like to drop the engine/tran this weekend but have never done this before so any advice would be appreciated.
Prior to that task i am trying to find out where everything is hooked up and what everything is. so i have taken lots of pictures, but i do not know what this is and it doesn't look completely stock, at least some of the wires dont look original so any one know?? One of the larger gauge wires goes directly to the positive terminal of the battery post if that helps....

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1358549057.1.jpg)
(i am referring to the thing with all the cords hooked up to it)

Thanks!!

[Kirmizi]

Your mystery item is a an add-on starter solenoid, to compensate for a no-start condition when hot. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Mike

[mittelmotor]

Looks great, David! I've got the M-calipers on my V-8 car, and they work surprisingly well even with the additional weight. Have to use a lot of leg so I don't (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) into another car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Check out this thread on engine drop. The safest way is using the furniture dolly method, and as a plus, once the engine/transaxle is out of the car, it's very easy to move around the garage.


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=200610

--Doug

[sfrenck]

Nice to see you found a shell for the right price without the title issues (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Did you get it from that contact you made in San Diego?

I'd recommend getting somebody close to help you with the drop. I've done four now and the second set of eyes and hands are invaluable resources (shout out to Bryan (brenz) and Mark (mepstein)) .

[dfelz]

Thanks Mike and Scott for the info on my mystery item. Now to the real question, is it needed? i mean i am in SoCal, and it never gets too hott and never too cold.... always just right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Or shall i leave it to just tag along for the ride??

And if i were to not reattach it on the new car what do i do with the wires that are attached, some are coming off the wiring harness.. have those just go directly to the stock starter motor?

Doug thanks for that link, ill look over it tonight!\

sfrenck, I actually picked up the shell from a guy named Glenn in LA, his company is Nine One Four Restorations, he does all 914s, he had about 10 cars on site, some complete some shells, and about 15 motors, ranging in size form 1.7 to 2.8 as well as a buick v6 in his personal toy. He really knows what hes doing, been in the bizz for 30 yrs, when he came over to drop off the car he was the one that got my engine to start for the first time in 20+ years after noticing some wiring errors on my part.
As far as dropping the engine, I have my roommate that is helping me out with the whole project. Oldschool also lives down the street from me and said he is willing to lend a hand (as well as multiple other members) but i think he is busy this weekend so i may have to go without him this time around....

[Kirmizi]

Ultimately, you'll have to determine if the car will start (or not) after getting "hot". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Some consider it a "quick fix" to compensate for 40 year old wiring, others say it's cheap insurance.
You can leave it off and see what happens, then go from there.

Mike

[dfelz]

Ok thanks Mike, I think I will initially leave it off and if the time comes where i feel i need it i can always add it back on.

Next wiring question.
On the 12 pin relay board harness, what is the white cable labeled Aux Air Valve?
There is also a green with black stripe wire separating from the harness near the starter coil wires that was taped down by the PO, and its not on the relay board diagram. Anyone know what that is for?
Shown in the picture are both the wires i am referring to
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1358626476.1.jpg)

Thanks!!

[Chris H.]

Thanks Mike and Scott for the info on my mystery item. Now to the real question, is it needed? i mean i am in SoCal, and it never gets too hott and never too cold.... always just right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Or shall i leave it to just tag along for the ride??

And if i were to not reattach it on the new car what do i do with the wires that are attached, some are coming off the wiring harness.. have those just go directly to the stock starter motor?

Doug thanks for that link, ill look over it tonight!\

sfrenck, I actually picked up the shell from a guy named Glenn in LA, his company is Nine One Four Restorations, he does all 914s, he had about 10 cars on site, some complete some shells, and about 15 motors, ranging in size form 1.7 to 2.8 as well as a buick v6 in his personal toy. He really knows what hes doing, been in the bizz for 30 yrs, when he came over to drop off the car he was the one that got my engine to start for the first time in 20+ years after noticing some wiring errors on my part.
As far as dropping the engine, I have my roommate that is helping me out with the whole project. Oldschool also lives down the street from me and said he is willing to lend a hand (as well as multiple other members) but i think he is busy this weekend so i may have to go without him this time around....

Yes those solenoids were almost always added to fix a hot start issue that happened pretty frequently on a specific car. I haven't heard of many added proactively "just in case". It's not so much the weather but how hot the engine/starter gets. As Mike said, at least keep it just in case. Like in the trunk (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Kirmizi]

Try looking here for your specific wiring diagram:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914_electrical_diagrams.htm

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)