Project Time! 71 garage build, Broke a Valve Spring... Options

[monkeyboy]

OK. I haven't pulled the heads off on mine. I thought they were like the exhaust.

[dfelz]

Mocked up the valve train tonight to see what im working with, and just become more familiar with how it goes together, not much too it really. First i swapped out the original rocker studs for the chromoly ones, which has a thicker stock and uses an M8 nut instead of an M7 (I red loctited the new studs in the heads, hope thats good practice.) I then put the pushrod tubes in with the new vitol o-rings and then the pushrods and retainer spring. Next I put the rocker assemblies on. The rocker assem is brand new, with HD shafts, solid alum spacer, and the elephant feet adjusters (also just realized i think i am missing the blocks that go on the ends of the shaft (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) .) Because of the geometry change using the elephant feet i will probably be getting cut-to-length chromoly pushrods to replace the stock alum ones. Anyone have experience using the stock alum ones WITH the elephant feet adjusters in place???

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Time for sleeeeeep! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif)

['73-914kid]

Oh, I almost forgot to mention... the Solid shaft spacers have to be sanded down so you can fit a feeler gauge in between the rockers and the spacer. I forget what the number is off the top of my head though..

[boogie_man]

Lookin good Flezy !!!! keep those pix coming (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

['73-914kid]

Oh, and steal the rocker shaft mounting blocks of your old set of rocker arms...I'm pretty sure I remember seeing them in that bag of old rocker assemblies.

[dfelz]

Yup, the old end blocks were there. I cleaned them up and put them on the rocker assemblies. I now have both sides of the valve train on and ready to go, just need to adjust the valve screws now per the specs. It looks like i may be able to just barely get away with using the stock pushrods, but ill leave that up to Ethan for a final decision.

I picked up my new flywheel this week and put that sucker on there. Fit like a glove!! Its a brand new 215mm flywheel from AA performance products. Before i took out the main oil seal and three stock shims, i bolted the flywheel up and the endplay was completely eliminated, absolutely wouldn't budge at all. I then took it off, took out the oil seal and shims, measured the shims and put the two thickest ones back in and bolted the flywheel on again (no oil seal present). I then measured the end play with my new clamping dial indicator, and the endplay was then .063", which is weird cause the shim removed was .011" thick.... and since i believe i want a few thou of end play i am going to try and get the next shim size down, which was the smallest one made, at .0095"

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[bandjoey]

Don't forget the spring pushrod tube keeper. It's not in the picture so just a reminder. Great looking motor!

[dfelz]

Thanks for the complement Bill, Actually the pushrod tube keeper is in there though, you can see it in the pic too. What i thought was weird though is that it prevents the rocker shaft end blocks (not pictured) from sitting flush against the face of the head where the studs are screwed into... is that right??

['73-914kid]

the retaining clips get clipped in after the studs are all torqued and seated. i think theres a picture of it somewhere around here...

[dfelz]

the retaining clips get clipped in after the studs are all torqued and seated. i think theres a picture of it somewhere around here...

Hmm, cause the haynes book said put it in first, but it probably assumed you would get it out of the way of the valve train when torquing it down... which i didnt, this time at least

Put a bunch of hours in today cleaning and prepping. Not that it can be seen once all together, but i got the entire half thats behind the fan case is now clean and shinny! Then prepped and painted some more of the tins.

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[dfelz]

MAJOR UPDATE

While Ethan and I were trying to figure out the excessive amount of end play, we made a grueling find, the main bearing on the flywheel side (and possibly others) were shot and completely out of spec. We then performed a cost/benefit analysis on the situation to way all of our options. Figuring that if we ran it as-is the motor would probably blow-up after 10,000 miles, and make much of my valve train unusable after (which i just got new) because the wear would be so great. We landed on the best solution being that we should split the case, get it hot tanked and line bored, new bearings and journals, re-grind cam/lifters for a carbonated engine, and any other misc. things that must be done when splitting the case. Ethan has good shops to go to that he has personally used and recommends in San Diego, so since he was going there this morning, he took my case, crank, and cam with him to drop off for machine work.

Once the case was split, it was discovered that condition was much worse. Some of the bearing journals were being eaten up and our OG estimate of the engine lasting 10k went down the drain. So I am very happy we decided to go this route. Will hopefully have it all back in two weeks for reassembly. I obviously documented the process and will post pics below; I have some questions regarding specifics noted in some of the pictures so please see my individual comments on the photos to help me out.

This one cam follower only had a much thicker layer of carbon build up inside... mean anything to take note of?
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This bolt came out of the bottom butt crack just below and in between the pushrod tube entrance (only on one side) and i figured this isnt good. Ethan will be notifying the machinist to take a look and see if it needs drilled and time-sert, will obviously be getting the bolt replaced at the least. (anyone got a spare?)
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Oil pump was a bitch and a half to get off, case nuts had be loosened, which i knew, but even with them all loose, i really had to put my back in to it to get that sucker off there.
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And split!
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Cam looks to be in decent condition from what my newbie eyes could tell
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Picture didnt turn out that great, sorry
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Crank
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hmmmmmm
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oil baffle, and inside the case below the oil baffle was a large content of thick grey sludge all around the bottom
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So, when i rebuild i will be installing my new tuna can that i got from the GB, can someone tell me whether it uses a mesh screen like the OG one??
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All in all, once we decided to split the case it took around 4 hours, with the last 2 and a half hours being done solo (which is why is took so long.) But i enjoyed it very much, and this depth of penetration into my motor will be a good learning experience!

Thanks in advance for your input on the questions listed above! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[nathansnathan]

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Seems like this is the wrong bolt, like too short. I think you are saying this is the one that holds up the oil pickup tube? The 'loop' on the pickup tube, this bolt goes through it. When they say "type 4 syndrome" it is over-tightening the oil pickup/strainer bolt at the bottom, which cracks the boss that bolt (that comes from the side) threads into. It looks like either the pickup tube loop is resting on the threads instead of the shoulder or it could have happened if you took out the bolt from the side before take off the sump plate/ taking the 'pull' off the pickup. It seems it should be threaded in further to the boss in the case, though -no way aluminum boss would strip out a steel bolt like that. Make sure those threads are good in the case and that you don't have 'the syndrome'.

[dfelz]

Ethan arrived at my place this afternoon bearing gifts! He brought home my hot tanked/line boarded case, journal bearings, crank with new tid bits on it, and febi lifters. I then went to town on the case with a scotch brite pad before power washing it with water and drying it off with compressed air. Wanted to get all the little machining scraps out of any holes and corners. The engine and components are ready to be assembled, but i first have to get my hands on two more journal bearing case dowel pins, I only have 3/5 required, the other two must have abandoned ship during take-down. Gonna give the VW shop down the street a call, they should have some.
Once i get those two little buggers after class i will start the assembly, i have engine lube, cam lube, and case sealant, hoping it goes smoothly!

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[Cairo94507]

You are doing it right. You will be much happier knowing the whole engine was gone through.

[dfelz]

You are doing it right. You will be much happier knowing the whole engine was gone through.

I completely agree! I would have been F**KED if i didnt too, the guy who did the machining on the case said it wouldn't have lasted long enough to tune the carbs before blowing.... yikes!

[dfelz]

Well I pretty much worked on the car ALL day today, got home from class at 11am, had a meeting from 3-5, and then right back to it, now off to bed!

To sum it up, the case halves are together and the 1/2 piston/cylinder and head is on! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Heres a picture book of the day:

Picked up these two journal dowel pins from Dave's Little VW shop on my way to school (free (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) nice guy
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Laid out all the journal bearings to make sure all was there, for a minute i freaked out thinking i was missing half of one, then Ethan told me i had one extra, phew!
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Placed the journal halves in there, fitment was spot on.
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Got out my lube (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) and case sealant
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Played connect the dots (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
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Took a few spins to ensure everything was seated properly
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Installed the oil baffle to the other half (was kind of a PITA)
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Realized i only had 5 vibration dampeners....? luckily i dont take the garage trash out very often and was able to dumpster dive to find one old good one
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Installed the M10 bolts and washers, then the vibration dampeners to the inside. For some reason the Haynes manual does not tell you to do that before putting the halves together... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
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Diligently put the two halves of the case together and torqued down all 24 nuts/bolt combos. Then inserted the two pressure relief valves with new crush washers.
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Installed the oil pump and oil filter neck with new gaskets. Filled the oil pump with oil before installing to help with start up priming, per Ethans suggestion. Oil pump was a really tight fit and had to be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) with my rubber mallet (softly) to slide in.
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Installed the flywheel with three shims (approx thickness: .014, .012, .012) and measured endplay, came out around .0035, perfect!
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Installed the 1 and 2 p/c, then the head. No problems there, seeing it was my second time in the last few weeks
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And now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

I'll be back with more tomorrow, should have the 3/4 side on and will start working on valve train

Oh ya, also, so that oil baffle case bolt that was torn to shreds! The case threads looked perfectly fine and that is the correct bolt size/length so i got a new one, and when i installed it i had no problems, threaded in normally with no extra resistance or anything. So problem still semi unsolved i guess, but wont be worrying too much about it... should be just fine. thanks for your help though Nathan.

[dfelz]

Engine is almost now back together, I just finished getting the 3/4 p/c and head on then moved onto the valve train. Got the pushrod tubes in there and mocked up the rocker assemblies with pushrods to see how the elephant feet adjusters would work using the stock pushrods. Before i had split the case when i was doing this, it was cutting it very close, but since the cam was reground, that took some material off, making the pushrods sit inside the engine a little bit further. I believe they will work now, so thats good (saves me money!)

3/4 side on
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the carb manifold stud on the head didnt look so hot....
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So i replaced it!
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Girlfriend snapped a pic while i was screwing in the tiny M5 x 5 bolt for the deflector plate
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With the solid spacer on the rocker shaft, there has to be a .003" gap when cold, so they had to be lightly sanded with a really fine grit. The gauging was done without the pushrods in there.
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looking better every time, i am getting really excited.
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sleep time! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[monkeyboy]

Looking good.

[FourBlades]

You the man! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Thanks for posting all these step by step pictures.

Should help other people down the road.

John

[dfelz]

Thanks for the compliments guys, and John that is exactly my reasoning for posting all the steps, I want to show that rebuilding these T4s is a job that can be done even by a novice, it just takes time and patience.

I logged another 5 hours just now and got a fair amount accomplished.

Started out by finishing the valve job, with gaps set to .006" on all valves, intake and exhaust alike.

Then installed the engine support bar case brackets and the dampeners, then the thermostat and cable pulley, a new oil filter, the warm air guides for both sides on the oil cooler half of the engine.
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I have the Tangerine Racing breather can so following the instructions I had to drill a hole in the filler box which was then tapped to 1/8" NPT. I dont have a vise...so for the actual drilling part, i had to get a little creative.
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And voila!
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Attached the filler neck and then put the fan housing and fan impeller on
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Attached the cold air flaps
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Anyone have some good pictures of how this spring is properly mounted to actually be useful??? Also i think the warm air guide on that side is not fully situated because that flap wont go all the way down...or is it not supposed to???
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Only a few more things to do before this engine is ready to rock and roll. I still need to put the flywheel oil seal and pilot bearing in, assemble the distributor, finish painting and then attach the tins, bolt down the carbs and manifolds, assemble the CFR carb linkage.....and maybe a few other small things. But that list is just for the engine unfortunately, still have some work on the car side before the install (SS fuel lines, pedal cluster, shift console and tunnel shift rod, then some electrical stuff...) Good thing I have finals week next week, i will have sooo much time to do all the above, NOT. oh well, i will try and be patient.