Newbie with Issues, Starting and Idling |
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Newbie with Issues, Starting and Idling |
hotrodalley |
Jan 20 2013, 09:58 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 2 Joined: 23-December 12 From: tn Member No.: 15,279 Region Association: South East States |
I have a 74 1.8L with L-Jetronic. I have replaced starter multiple times. The car will typically start fine with new starter a number of times - sometimes for a couple of days then it will just not start. I will hear a "clicking sound" similar to a dead battery but that is not the situation (although I am at a point of just changing out the battery)
In addition, i'll get a stalling condition as I come to stop signs. Otherwise the car runs fine. Could these conditions be related? Has anyone experienced these conditions? Any help would be appreciated as I am new to the the 914. thanks much |
pilothyer |
Jan 20 2013, 10:03 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 838 Joined: 21-May 08 From: N. Alabama Member No.: 9,080 Region Association: South East States |
How are you testing the battery? If you are just measuring 12 volts at the terminals, even a marginal battery will test good that way....you should check it under load, such as with the headlights on. Just sounds like to me your battery is about gone. You may have a loose or dirty battery ground connection where the Neg. battery cable attaches to the body
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ellisor3 |
Jan 20 2013, 10:17 AM
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#3
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HPWhore Group: Members Posts: 811 Joined: 23-October 08 From: Fleming Island, Florida Member No.: 9,683 Region Association: South East States |
Also check the condition of the ground strap from the trans to the body. If it is worn or not connected very well, it can cause problems.
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cary |
Jan 20 2013, 10:47 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Ditto on cleaning all the ground connections.
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turk22 |
Jan 20 2013, 12:45 PM
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#5
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Treetop Flyer Group: Members Posts: 735 Joined: 27-July 12 From: Cincinnati OH Member No.: 14,725 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
When I had a problem with the starter not engaging (just clicking), it was that the positive cable from the battery had a very internally corroded cable. I removed the end of the cable, cut it back to good clean copper, and replaced the connector to the battery. Car started right up, and it was a $5 fix.
There is a thread out there about my troubleshooting steps, with lots of cleaning of the ground connections, and checking of the battery, and solinoid connections. I don't think the starter and stalling are connected. I would expect the stalling at stop would be either idle adjustment, vaccuum lines not conneted, or possibly a MPS or CHT failure. Turk |
hot_shoe914 |
Jan 20 2013, 01:13 PM
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#6
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on ramp passer Group: Members Posts: 3,802 Joined: 20-November 07 From: Earle, Ar. Member No.: 8,354 Region Association: None |
Vapor lock? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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timothy_nd28 |
Jan 20 2013, 01:14 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,299 Joined: 25-September 07 From: IN Member No.: 8,154 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
It does sound like a poor ground connection. You should run an extra ground wire straight from the battery to the bell housing starter bolt. I did this to mine, and my starter spins 20% faster.
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ConeDodger |
Jan 20 2013, 01:21 PM
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#8
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,594 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
It does sound like a poor ground connection. You should run an extra ground wire straight from the battery to the bell housing starter bolt. I did this to mine, and my starter spins 20% faster. First things always first. The electrical system on these cars was 'engineered' and is almost certainly adequate. Find all your grounds, clean them up, reattach them. The factory system should not need accessory grounding if every thing is in good repair... |
timothy_nd28 |
Jan 20 2013, 01:46 PM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,299 Joined: 25-September 07 From: IN Member No.: 8,154 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Adequate perhaps, but the original design is debatable. Copper to steel, steel back to copper, copper to magnesium, then to your starter, isn't the best way. Yes it works, till dielectric corrosion sits in at every connection. In addition, the alternator never had a proper ground with this setup. I would still clean all ground points on the car, but I'd also run heavy gauge wire from the battery to the bell housing, and perhaps a small jumper to the alternator housing. These ground wires are prefab at any FLAPS for under 15 bucks, why not?
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struckn |
Jan 20 2013, 05:57 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,069 Joined: 9-November 11 From: South Central York Pennsyvania Member No.: 13,764 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Also check the ignition switch in the steering column, they're plastic and will crack.
I had one that worked intermitently untill it finally quit all together. Not easy to replace but do-able if you follow the tech instruction from Pelican. Also not an expensive part to replace. |
timothy_nd28 |
Jan 20 2013, 06:08 PM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,299 Joined: 25-September 07 From: IN Member No.: 8,154 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
check and bypass the seatbelt interlock circuit as well
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mittelmotor |
Jan 20 2013, 07:11 PM
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#12
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-May 12 From: SoCal Member No.: 14,464 Region Association: None |
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